How's The Weather In Your Area?

[Martijn Meerts]

For panel lining and those things, you can go for the Gundam markers. There's tons of colours available and rather than using ink, they actually use paint. I have a bunch of them for my Gundam models, but never actually considered they might be useful for train stuff as well :)

[POMU]

Have used the chalks for years and found they produce a great effect, except that they fade when sealed, and you have to seal them or you wind up with fingerprints, smudges etc like Jeff has found out.  They are cheap but extra work.  For my plank on frame ship models I've used fine tip black liquid ink pens to simulate the rope and tar effect in seams and also the nail heads.  After a seal of Teak oil they look very realistic.

 Never had a problem with the original Future Floor Wax yellowing over years.

[marknewton]

Saw the Tamiya weathering sticks when they came out a few years back, but didn't purchase or experiment with them.  Will be interested in your experience and opinion on them.  Are they liquid?  Thanks Mark

 

I typed a lengthy reply to your question earlier today, POMU, but for some reason the thing wouldn't post, and I couldn't save it. I'll try again later, but in the meantime here's three views of my "weathering practice" model, an Aclass Wara1. The first is taken using only available indoor light, the second is in early morning sunlight, and the third is indoors with flash. I was amazed at the difference between the three photos - and I think there's much to be learned from them.

 

 

 

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[POMU]

I typed a lengthy reply to your question earlier today, POMU, but for some reason the thing wouldn't post, and I couldn't save it. I'll try again later, but in the meantime here's three views of my "weathering practice" model, an Aclass Wara1. The first is taken using only available indoor light, the second is in early morning sunlight, and the third is indoors with flash. I was amazed at the difference between the three photos - and I think there's much to be learned from them.

 

 

 

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

Thanks for the photo's Mark.  The detailing is exceptional and proves that a picture is "Worth a thousand words"  Did you accomplish this fine detail with the Tamiya weathering sticks?  If so I have to try them!

Thanks

Pomu

[marknewton]

G'day Pomu & Jeff.

 

The Tamiya weathering sticks and have a soft consistency like lipstick, and come in a similar applicator. The weathering colours are water based. You can apply them direct to the model from the applicator, or use a brush or sponge to apply them, rather like dry-brushing. This is the method I used on the Wara1 in the photos I've posted. There are some short videos demonstrating Tamiya weathering products here:

 

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/

 

The webpage mentions using acrylic thinner to dilute the weathering colours to make a wash. That's the next method I'm going to try.

 

I agree with the comments made previously by Martijn and Jeff - weathering needs to be subtle to be effective. But there's the conundrum. Weathering that is subtle to the naked eye can appear very different when photographed, as my three previous photos show. When photographed under normal indoor lighting the weathering is almost invisible, but in sunlight the effect looks exaggerated and overcooked. This photo gives a good impression of how the weathering looks under normal indoor lighting. It's visible, but not overpowering.

 

 

One thing that always improves the look of any model, even if you do no other weathering, is painting the wheels. Nothing looks worse than bright shiny silver wheels! The front and rear faces of the wheels on my Wara1 are painted with Badger ModelFlex Rail Brown, then drybrushed with the Tamiya weathering colours. That blends the wheels with the weathering on the rest of the model.

 

Other than making sure the model was clean and free of fingerprints, I didn't do any special preparation before I weathered this Wara1. There is a slight difference in appearance between the satin painted body and the shiny unpainted plastic underframe. On the next model I'll roughen the plastic surface on one side with a fibreglass pencil, and spray the other side with Dullcote. I think that will lessen the contrast between that part of the model and the painted body. It should also improve the way the weathering colour adheres to the surface.

 

I know that there are a lot of video weathering tutorials on YouTube, but I tend to avoid these, for the simple reason that I want to avoid the "artistically weathered" look. That's something that goes back to my scale modelling days, when "Verlinden-style" weathering was

de rigueur. I hated it! :) While some of the methods described are quite interesting, I think it's too easy to just copy someone else's models, rather than attempting to copy reality.

 

To me that's the key to realistic weathering - study your prototype. Yes, Japanese trains tend to be kept clean, but even so there are distinctive weathering patterns to be seen. Bogies, wheels, underbody equipment and snowploughs tend to get dirty and stay that way, so do roofs. If you can't study them in person, look at photos and videos of Japanese trains and you'll soon learn what weathering is appropriate. Applying the weathering is not hard - my Wara1 was done using only a paintbrush and a sponge. The imporatnt thing is to give it a try - if you're not happy with your efforts just wash it off and start again.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

Edited April 15, 2014 by marknewton

[cteno4]

Mark,

 

Thanks, great info!

 

Yep I only like watching the YouTube videos to pick up ideas for techniques and ideas for layering techniques, not for the final look.

 

Knowing the prototype is definitely the thing.

 

Sounds very like pastels but those are not water soluble!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[nscalestation]

I have not weathered any of my Japanese collection.  I only model Japanese passenger trains and in my own experience they keep those very clean although the roof tops might warrant some weathering.

 

In the past couple of years I have started to weather my American freight collection and both American and Japanese buildings.  So far I've been using the Bragdon weather powers already mentioned.

[POMU]

I've been using chalks for weathering for years. If you have an art supply store near by, you hopefully can get artist acrylic chalks there. They come in a variety of colors are usually square sticks that can be scraped with a knife and the resulting powder applied with small brushes.

Washes of acrylic and enamel paints and inks also work well. As noted black washes can be slowly applied but don't rule out other colors. Use some dark browns or tans to simulate dust and dirt. Even thin washes of white or off white give you faded paint effects. Look at a color wheel for other ideas for weathering. If you have a green car/loco weather the shadowed and dark areas areas using blue mixed with the base green color. To go lighter use yellow mixed with the base color.

There are many forums and sites that have lots of info & techniques dealing with weathering. Be sure to look at military modeling and figure painting sites.

Hope this helps.

Dave

Hi Dave

  Your right about mixing the colors to correspond to the color of your cars or Loco's.  Washes like the black or white washes work best when just simulating a runoff effect.  Have actually used real rust and other common elements like dirt in my weathering efforts.  I've found a lot of good tips from military modeling sites.

Pomu

[POMU]

G'day Pomu & Jeff.

 

The Tamiya weathering sticks and have a soft consistency like lipstick, and come in a similar applicator. The weathering colours are water based. You can apply them direct to the model from the applicator, or use a brush or sponge to apply them, rather like dry-brushing. This is the method I used on the Wara1 in the photos I've posted. There are some short videos demonstrating Tamiya weathering products here:

 

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/

 

The webpage mentions using acrylic thinner to dilute the weathering colours to make a wash. That's the next method I'm going to try.

 

I agree with the comments made previously by Martijn and Jeff - weathering needs to be subtle to be effective. But there's the conundrum. Weathering that is subtle to the naked eye can appear very different when photographed, as my three previous photos show. When photographed under normal indoor lighting the weathering is almost invisible, but in sunlight the effect looks exaggerated and overcooked. This photo gives a good impression of how the weathering looks under normal indoor lighting. It's visible, but not overpowering.

 

 

One thing that always improves the look of any model, even if you do no other weathering, is painting the wheels. Nothing looks worse than bright shiny silver wheels! The front and rear faces of the wheels on my Wara1 are painted with Badger ModelFlex Rail Brown, then drybrushed with the Tamiya weathering colours. That blends the wheels with the weathering on the rest of the model.

 

Other than making sure the model was clean and free of fingerprints, I didn't do any special preparation before I weathered this Wara1. There is a slight difference in appearance between the satin painted body and the shiny unpainted plastic underframe. On the next model I'll roughen the plastic surface on one side with a fibreglass pencil, and spray the other side with Dullcote. I think that will lessen the contrast between that part of the model and the painted body. It should also improve the way the weathering colour adheres to the surface.

 

I know that there are a lot of video weathering tutorials on YouTube, but I tend to avoid these, for the simple reason that I want to avoid the "artistically weathered" look. That's something that goes back to my scale modelling days, when "Verlinden-style" weathering was

de rigueur. I hated it! :) While some of the methods described are quite interesting, I think it's too easy to just copy someone else's models, rather than attempting to copy reality.

 

To me that's the key to realistic weathering - study your prototype. Yes, Japanese trains tend to be kept clean, but even so there are distinctive weathering patterns to be seen. Bogies, wheels, underbody equipment and snowploughs tend to get dirty and stay that way, so do roofs. If you can't study them in person, look at photos and videos of Japanese trains and you'll soon learn what weathering is appropriate. Applying the weathering is not hard - my Wara1 was done using only a paintbrush and a sponge. The imporatnt thing is to give it a try - if you're not happy with your efforts just wash it off and start again.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

Hi Mark and Jeff

  Thanks for the info and sorry I didn't respond sooner.  Forum was down and I have some serious issues with my computer - time for a new one, as this one is about to crash.

  I am going to try the Tamiya weathering sticks as I like the effects you have had with your Wara1 - there's always room for improvement and learning.  Vids on weathering are always good for picking up tips, or something you've never seen or tried before, as Dave has mentioned, especially military modeling.   

Regards,

Pomu

[POMU]

I have not weathered any of my Japanese collection.  I only model Japanese passenger trains and in my own experience they keep those very clean although the roof tops might warrant some weathering.

 

In the past couple of years I have started to weather my American freight collection and both American and Japanese buildings.  So far I've been using the Bragdon weather powers already mentioned.

Hi Brad

  Checked your blog - nice work there

Pomu

[Davo Dentetsu]

Wanted some weathered freight locos, so have started doing the EF64s.