Michelle Teo Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Hi, I just started with this hobby and started with a Kato N700A starter set. It runs perfectly fine for few runs but recently something go wrong; it just stop when reach the turning/curve. But it moves at the straight track. The front and back light both working. Please advise on how to solve this problem. Many thanks. Regs N700A Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Regs, As Vatato said its sounding like the curve radius may be too tight and binding the trucks or tipping the motor car. what is the radius of the curve? shinkansens usually like greater than 11" 280mm radius and really like more like 15" / 381mm radius. the diaphragm coupling mech on the kato n700 can be a bit cranky at times getting stuck and not swing all the way it should. it usually just causes a derailment, but maybe in this case its tipping the car a bit to take one side of the motor car off the tracks. i think the diaphragm on this model may make it so it needs the larger radius than some other shinkansens as well. does the motor still make noise when it stops at the curve or does it go quiet? if it goes quiet then its lifting the outside wheels off the tracks and thus loosing power to the car. if its still making noise then its just getting bound up in a situation where its not getting enough traction to move. also check that the trucks on the motor car are squarely popped in all the way (sometimes the get stuck at an angle not all the way snapped into the chassis) and that they freely turn to the limit they can w/in the skirt area in the chassis (sometimes one can get bound up). if one is cranky in its turning then it will require popping off the truck to see whats going on in there to muck things up. cheers jeff Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 I think Michelle bought the starter set, Kato 10-019 N700A Nozomi: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10222888 hence curves too tight cannot be a problem. The curves in the starter set is R315, definitely passable at full speed by the N700A. My guess is over-running the motor... Perhaps a little lubrication oil can work? Link to comment
kvp Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 First i would try to run the motor unit alone, without the other cars to see if the problem lies in the couplers. If not, then you can check with two wires from the track to one of the wheels if the pickups are ok. (you can turn the motor unit upside down for this) Try turning the bogie around while powering it through the wires to see where is the problem. Also note the location where the train stops. Is it when the first car enters the curve or at the motor unit? (you can also check the track joiners for a failed one or look for some foreign object on the tracks like dirt) Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Thanks for all the replies. I run it again with the motor unit alone n it stops when it enter the curve and it goes quiet. Hi, KVP, I don't understand your suggestion 'check with two wires from the track to one of the wheels'. How to do that? Do hope to get the set back in good running condition with the help of you all. Regs Michelle Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 actually in this case i would check the wheels are all attached correctly. if not mounted right in the socket they will move on straight but get stuck on curves. happened to me once the shipping must have knocked the wheels out. couldn`t tell they were not mounted right till playing with them all using my finger to roll. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Yeah i agree with Keitaro its sounding like trucks are not turning properly and they are loosing contact truck to chassis when turned when it hits the curve. Regs, does it do this both directions? have you tried to see if the trucks turn easily when you flip it over and twist them back adn forth? it could be a bent contact(s) on the trucks not properly contacting the chassis pickups. jeff Link to comment
kvp Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 'check with two wires from the track to one of the wheels'. How to do that? You take a bare ended wire pair and connect one end to the two track outputs of your controller or directly to the tracks. This way the track power will routed to the other ends. These other ends can be lightly touched to the wheels of the motor unit. This way, you can connect the tracks and the wheels while the unit is upside down on your desk. If the controller is on, the wheels should start turning in the air, like it's running on rails. Now you can check each wheel for contact problems and turn the bogies around to find the position in which they stop working. But based on your description, i too think that the wheels/bogies are loose or the frame pickups are bent away from the bogies. ps: Before anything else, please check if the power reaches the other straight parts of the layout after the curve and you are not dealing with a broken/bent track joiner. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Sounded like the curve was getting power as the head and tail lights were both on when th motor car was stuck at the beginning of the curve so one of the end cars was on the curve and getting power to be lit. Jeff Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Hi, thanks for all your input. I will try to 'operate' the power car and check on the wheels and see whether it solves the problem. Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi, I tried but did not work. Anyone know where to send for repair in Japan? Link to comment
cteno4 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Michelle, did you try a larger radius curve? what is the radius curve you are running on that this happens? what exactly did you try when you said you tried and it did not work. unfortunately its tough to get repairs from japan you need to do this thru the dealer you purchased it thru. usually you contact the dealer and they have you mail it to them then they send it into kato for repairs and then it gets set back to them and then to you. usually there are some shipping and other charges needed unless under warrantee. jeff Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hi Jeff, I did not try larger curve because i just started this hobby and bought a Kato Starter set model No.10-019 from Japan. The radius is like R315. I tried check on the wheels but it looks ok to me. I upload some photos for your comments. I try to upload a video clip but not successful. It will be tough for the repair as i do not understand japanese. Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hi Jeff, I managed to upload a short video showing the problem of the train. Appreciate if someone could identify the problem so that i can get my train going. Thank you. Michelle Teo IMG_2462.MOV Link to comment
kvp Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I see that it's leaning outside instead of tilting inside in the curve. It looks this inverse tilt causes the inside contact strips to be lifted from the bogie and it looses power. Someone more familiar with the tilting mechanism could tell us the reason and a way to fix it. (also, one one of the photos, the connecting gangway is badly bent downwards when the motor is upside down) Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Hi kvp, Thanks for your comments. By the way, which photo are you referring to? Link to comment
Ochanomizu Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Hello Mr Michelle Can I ask where you are located and where you bought the model? Link to comment
Michelle Teo Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Hi Ochanomizu, I m residing in Malaysia and I purchased the item from Tokyo, Japan. Link to comment
kvp Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Hi kvp, Thanks for your comments. By the way, which photo are you referring to? The last one. The weight of the motor is pushing the connetors down. If it springs back after lifting it, then it's not a problem. But the lack of correct tilting is, it should tilt inwards and outside. Does it also stop if you go slower? Link to comment
cteno4 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Michelle, I'm thinking it would be good to see if the shop you bought it from would send it back to kato for you for repair or replacement. If it did not function out of the box properly best have them fix it. Most good shops are good about this with recently purchased equipment. Something is not right with how the bogies are turning and something is causing the drive chain to bind, disengage, or loose electrical contact. If they won't do this for you then look into trying to tear into it further. Jeff Link to comment
E6系 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hello Mr Michelle, Video operation very strange. Do you try on another track or do you try another train on this track? Link to comment
katoftw Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 After taking ownership of my first Kato tilting train. This is what I would do:- Run the motor car with at least the end cars connected. Seems the tilting mech needs 2 or more cars attached to work properly. And do not run it at full power unless above is tried. It looks like you are just attempting to run the motor car at full speed and the tilt mech is just flipping/tilting outwards/away from inside of the corner. So the opposite of how it should be working. Link to comment
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