I need some help on a few things.

[Keikyu]

1: I got a 6 car Sakura set the other day. Trouble is, it came with the knuckle couplers. The Hobbysearch page for it shows them having the hook shaped couplers which I assumed it would come with, but now it came with different ones.

 

So my trouble is, I was planning on using my Tomix EF66 to pull it but now I can't. Do any of the Kato or Tomix EF66s come with knuckle couplers? Or can I swap out the couplers on the leading carriage to the hook shaped ones so anything can easily pull it?

 

2: I would like motors to power these particular trains and I was wondering if any would be suitable.

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10046377

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10039793

 

3: I have this 300 series shinkansen. It's not the best version of it but I quite like it.

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10009664

 

Anyway, I have a layout with super elevated curves. For whatever reason, it derails on one curve and not the other despite them being the same. This really baffles me.

[Martijn Meerts]

Many of the Tomix and Kato loco's come with both Rapido couplers (the hook type ones) as well as knuckle couplers in a small bag of extra parts. Considering your sakura set came with knuckle couplers pre-installed, I'm guessing it's a Kato version? In that case you'll also need a Kato locomotive since Tomix and Kato knuckle couplers aren't compatible with each other. If the locomotive didn't come with additional couplers, the manual/info sheet should say which replacement couplers will fit with the loco.

 

It should also be possible to replace the coupler on the leading car of the Sakura set for a Rapido one, in which case there should also be a replacement part number in the manual somewhere.

 

 

Which brand track do you use? I know Unitrack doesn't always line up well and you get a slight height difference from 1 section to the next. If that's the case in a super elevated curve, that might just be enough for a train to derail.

[sedril]

Strange, I though that set came with Rapido couplers on the front and rear... http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10086157 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10086157a/20/1

[Keikyu]

Many of the Tomix and Kato loco's come with both Rapido couplers (the hook type ones) as well as knuckle couplers in a small bag of extra parts. Considering your sakura set came with knuckle couplers pre-installed, I'm guessing it's a Kato version? In that case you'll also need a Kato locomotive since Tomix and Kato knuckle couplers aren't compatible with each other. If the locomotive didn't come with additional couplers, the manual/info sheet should say which replacement couplers will fit with the loco.

 

It should also be possible to replace the coupler on the leading car of the Sakura set for a Rapido one, in which case there should also be a replacement part number in the manual somewhere.

 

 

Which brand track do you use? I know Unitrack doesn't always line up well and you get a slight height difference from 1 section to the next. If that's the case in a super elevated curve, that might just be enough for a train to derail.

 

Alright then, that's a bit lame. I was hoping I wouldn't need another train to make it more realistic. So if that is the case do any of the Kato EF66s come with the little pointy things on the front to attach headboards?

 

And yeah, I was hoping to replace it rather than buying a full new train. I can't really read the instructions though, but maybe it's on there pretty plainly. I'd have to take a closer look.

 

I use Unitrack. It is possible but I ran my fingers over where it was derailing and the track felt relatively smooth. Other trains work fine on it.

 

Strange, I though that set came with Rapido couplers on the front and rear... http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10086157 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10086157a/20/1

I thought this as well. I got it from an auction site though rather than new so I just figured whoever last had it did some swapping out.

Edited August 13, 2013 by Keikyu

[Martijn Meerts]

Kato EF66s should be able to equip the headboards just fine, especially considering the Sakura set is Kato as well :) It does sound like whoever you bought it from did replace the Rapido couplers with knuckle couplers though.. As for the manual, the car set should have a sheet included with lots of Japanese text and some pictures. Usually on the back of the manual, in the bottom, there's a table listing the parts and part numbers. You could scan that and post it here if you want, and we can have a loot at it. If you're uncertain, just scan the entire manual, and send me a PM with it (best not to post manuals on the site considering there's copyright on them)

 

Not sure what could be causing the train to derail really. I don't use Unitrack much myself, I just have a simple loop of it from a set I bought a while ago. The 300 series like like the older version, which means there's a good chance it has fairly large wheel flanges which can be problematic. If there's a small bit of debris on the track (on the inside, up against the rail), it can cause the flange to hit it and derail the train.

[Keikyu]

Alright, that sounds good. I will have a look at that. And yeah, the set did come with some headboards but they don't appear to be attachable. I assumed I was supposed to glue them on.

 

The derailing doesn't seem to make much sense to me. I went with "It's an old train, might not be suited to elevated curves" which would be a disappointment because that's all I have.

[Martijn Meerts]

Headboards often need to be glued on, although I've also seen Kato locomotives that have a little magnet in the front which holds the headboard. The problem with that system is that they'll fall off once you get to the first little bump in the track .. I tend to just glue them on with a drop of superglue. Just make absolutely sure you glue them on the correct loco, and the correct side up (yes, I have messed up both ways before, it's terrifying trying to remove a superglued headboard ;))

 

I don't think the train has an issue with elevated curves as such.. It if did, it would derail on both curves. Just really inspect the track around the part where the train derails, and also check if it derails on all speeds or not.

[Keikyu]

Hm, alright then. Might just have to glue it on then. So does the Sakura set use a particular EF66? I have seen a few different ones floating around, one saying it's for Blue Trains. And I have made the mistake of putting stickers on upside down, can't imagine having to get off something superglued :v

 

Alright then, I will have a thorough look later. I can't seem to figure it out but my tracks could do with a good clean. So if something is stuck on the inside then it would be a good idea to do it now.

[Martijn Meerts]

Apparently, according to Japan Railfan Magazine, EF66 45 and EF66 49 are famous blue train locomotives.. (according to the wikipedia page on the EF66 ;))

[Keikyu]

Yep, seems to have been 49 at least once

 

 

Thanks for all the help as well. But is there nothing I can do to power the 2 trains?

[Densha]

I don't think it's a good idea to get add-on sets because they are not built to support a power unit, and to be used with a basic set that does have a power unit. MA and Greenmax usually don't sell separate parts as Kato and Tomix do. I saw that the Keikyu train's basic set and other add-on set are getting a re-release so if you get that one you could couple it with the add-on set, I think. But I don't know if it's still prototypical like that.

[Keikyu]

That's very disappointing. I can't find the Setouchi 115 set that goes with the add-on for under 200 dollars. At least where I regularly go.

[Densha]

You can always try to find a power unit of a powered set but that doesn't mean it will fit in, maybe it does or maybe not. I can't really help you with that maybe someone else can. I know MA isn't that modular so it can be a difficult task.

[Fenway Park]

Hi,

I presume the Sakura set you have purchased is a Series 20 Blue Train set. This is the version with pantographs on the Generator Car? These were to provide power to the carriages while stationary in stations and at low speeds. Similar to the Swiss Restaurant cars, which took power in the same way.

 

People get confused by the look of the 20 series as they assume they are a powered unit like a DMU/EMU.

 

There should be a pack of headboards which fit into the large hole in the Generator Car Crab 22 and the Conductor's Car with the wide end windows. Not sure if the set comes with the intermediate car where two small signs are fitted either side of the corridor connection.

 

In one of these bags should be a Rapido coupling and the instructions are in the information sheet with the set. Putting the little spring in the pocket requires patience and dexterity.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Malcolm

[Keikyu]

You can always try to find a power unit of a powered set but that doesn't mean it will fit in, maybe it does or maybe not. I can't really help you with that maybe someone else can. I know MA isn't that modular so it can be a difficult task.

 

Yeah, I was thinking about that. I don't really aim for realism or anything so a motor a bit small and needing to be glued in wouldn't bother me in the slightest. I really just want to try running it so I don't mind how.

 

Hi, I presume the Sakura set you have purchased is a Series 20 Blue Train set. This is the version with pantographs on the Generator Car? These were to provide power to the carriages while stationary in stations and at low speeds. Similar to the Swiss Restaurant cars, which took power in the same way. People get confused by the look of the 20 series as they assume they are a powered unit like a DMU/EMU. There should be a pack of headboards which fit into the large hole in the Generator Car Crab 22 and the Conductor's Car with the wide end windows. Not sure if the set comes with the intermediate car where two small signs are fitted either side of the corridor connection. In one of these bags should be a Rapido coupling and the instructions are in the information sheet with the set. Putting the little spring in the pocket requires patience and dexterity. Hope this helps. Malcolm

 

Nah, mine is the Series 14. I think it's older? I dunno.

 

That's quite interesting actually, I didn't know they put pantographs on generator cars. And I thought it was a separate powered unit at first.

[Fenway Park]

The 14 series are more modern than the 20 series. The 24/5 series replaced the 20 series with the intention the 14 series would operate on other services and the train would divide to offer Sleepers to more destinations. That is why there are Diesel engines under some of the cars to power A/C etc.

 

The class were involved in a serious tunnel fire on the Hokuriku line and were rebuilt.

 

 

[Keikyu]

Ah okay, that's interesting. I'd have assumed it went 14 to 20.

 

I have one more question. I'm a bit baffled on lighting.

 

Mostly I'd like to start with lighting my Sakura set but since it's Kato I assume the Constant Lighting by Tomix won't work. That's fine, but the Kato lighting systems don't seem all that well documented.

 

I searched the Japanese name for them and got pictures of interior lit trains but in like 3 different colors so I'm not really sure what Kato lighting is which now.

[Martijn Meerts]

The Tomix Constant Lighting isn't anything special. Their power packs with that feature just output a tiny bit of power to the track, just enough to make the LEDs light up, but not so much that the motors start running. Some Kato locomotives don't like the system I believe, so you should take some care. You can try placing a lighted Kato car on the track and experiment with the constant lighting, worst that can happen is that the lighting's LED will burn out.

 

The lights you want are probably Kato 11-211 (or 11-212 for a 6-pack), which are the newest ones. They can be shortened by snapping off bits, and come with white LEDs and an orange filter to make them warm white. For a more vintage look you'll probably want to additionally paint the LED with some clear orange paint though, because even with the orange filter, it's still fairly white. They're also fairly bright unfortunately.

[Keikyu]

Hm, alright then. I was really just wanting the Tomix ones just for the added realism of lights not turning off when I stopped the train.

 

Thanks, I will have a look at those Kato ones.

[Martijn Meerts]

The Tomix ones won't fit in Kato coaches. But, the Tomix light strips don't have any additional circuitry for the constant lighting feature. Also, the whole constant lighting thing is a bit flaky, it's not very consistent at all.

[Ochanomizu]

Hello Mr Keikyu,

 

Please allow me to explain how Tomix CL (Constant Lighting) works.

 

There is nothing special about the trains themselves, except they are equipped with LED lighting and circuitry that caps the current to the LED.  The "feature" is actually part of the controller.  Apart from the variable voltage used to control the speed of the train, the Tomix CL controller emits a 20 kHz 12-volt square pulses with Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to control the average voltage level. This power form can light the train while stopped, while still providing speed control. A trim pot control ring runs around the outside of the standard control dial.  The control ring is used to limit the PWM current so that it illuminates the LED's but does not cause the consist to move in a forward direction.

 

Theoretically, the system should work with LED equipped consists manufactured by other companies.  However, because other companies are not CL compatible, you might hear the motor humming while stationary.

[Keikyu]

Ah alright then, interesting stuff. I guess I will have to pass on them, I use Kato controllers and it's already expensive enough paying for new wall plugs just to be able to run here. I don't really want to have to get another controller just for the lights.

 

While I am here though, I do have another question. I just noticed the numbers on my 2 Oha12 coaches are the same. I mean they are the same carriage but the instructions say to make a consist you would use 3 of them. So basically 3 Oha12 coaches numbered  "12 196"

 

it just seems odd to me. I thought most Kato things came with a small sheet of numbers you put on yourself rather than printed numbers that are the same on every carriage.

 

Plus, my DD51 is in the process of being numbered. I numbered it DD51 881. So below the running number, it has a small square slot and I have 2 different pieces to slot into it. One resembles a Mitsubishi Logo and the other 2 Japanese characters. What do these mean?

Edited August 16, 2013 by Keikyu