dcc install in kintetsu vista \ series10100 help

[nik_n_dad]

Hi.

 

We have the 3-car version on this in n-scale.  We're pretyy new to DCC and looking for simple ways to get going (like drop-in decoders).  Since we a) don't speak or read Japanese and b) on of us is 10, the sheets tha came with the car-set (in Japanese) don't help us out much.

 

One big area of confusion is how many decoders we need to do headlights, tail lights & motor for this set.  If we use the Kato EM-13, I don't think we get any headlight functions.  Does this mean there's no headlight control at all, or does the Kato FL-12 somehow (how?) fit in the front (motor) car WITH the EM-13? 

 

Any help or experience with this train would be appreciated.

 

thanks

 

Mike & Nik

[alpineaustralia]

I am not acquainted with this train. If this is a Kato DCC friendly train then you will need:

 

(a) 1 x Kato 29-352 (FL 12) decoder for the front carriage for the headlights.

 

(b) 1 x  Kato 29-353 (FR11) decoder for each carriage that has internal lighting (even the front/rear carriages).ie If you have an 8 car bullet train, you will need one for each and every car in which the LED lights (Kato 11-210) have been installed) i.e. all 8 cars.

 

© 1 x Kato 29-351 (EM13) decoder for the motor carriage.

 

(d) 1 x Kato 29-352 (FL 12) decoder for the rear carriage for the taillights - installed in the opposite direction to the decoder installed in (a).

 

There are a couple of links below that should give you a bit more info.

 

http://www.katomodels.com/product/nmi/ho_white_roomlight_e.shtml

 

http://www.katomodels.com/product/nmi/dcc_decoder_e.shtml

[CaptOblivious]

Well, I don't worry so much about having the internal lights on DCC, so I don't bother with the FR11's

 

But Alpine is right: You will need 2*FL12 and 1*EM13. There is usually a hidden door in the undercarriage that conceals the FL12 installation point. The EM13 may need you to partially take the carriage apart to install it. There should be photos in the guide telling you what to do for these, even if the Japanese is incomprehensible. No chance you could scan them in?

[alpineaustralia]

Yes of course Capt's right. You dont actually need all these decoders. You could choose not to have DCC controlled internal lights or DCC controlled headlights/taillights. Its entirely up to you.

[CaptOblivious]

nik_n_dad:

 

I just posted this; I hope it is helpful to you!

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,951.0.html

[Bernard]

nik n dad - Welcome to the forum. The links that CaptO & Alpine have posted are what you will need to install the decoder.

 

I happen to have this train and I'm just going to instruct you on how to take it apart, it's a little tricky. (that is if you haven't figured it out already. ;))

 

The train is actually in 3 pieces and the area that you want to install the motor decoder is in the head car without the pantographs. You are going to have to separate that car from the rest of the train and to do this all you have to do is pull it apart. There is only one drive shaft in this train which is connected to the truck, so don't worry if that truck comes off, it will snap back on (you will also notice that there is a weight on top of the truck) Remove the shell from the motor chassis by starting from the end with the motor and tilting it toward the head lights. You do this because the lights are part of the shell & by tilting, it will make them slide off.

 

Once you do this you will see the motor and the head & tail lights and you can precede with the decoder in stall that have been posted. Repeat the instructions for the head & tail light at the other end.

 

As I recall, this train does not have the capability for interior lighting.

Good luck and tell us how it turned out. ;)

[Bernard]

nik & dad - I took apart my Kintetsu 10100 and I had a feeling it was a little tricky.

Here is a step by step photo instruction on how to do it. As I said in the 2nd photo you can see how easily it comes apart. The 3rd photo shows how you have to tilt the shell so you don't break the head & tail lights.

The 4th & 5th photos show what the train looks like with out it's shell from 2 angles.

The 6th photo show it apart so you can access the motor. You have to take off the underside small gray piece first and you will see a black plastic switch that turns on and off the head & tail lights. Member the direction that black piece goes it. Next you can take off the gray seats. Be careful, this is not a full chassis, it's only half, the rest is a clip on plastic piece for the front trucks & lights. Don't remove this piece.

[Bernard]

The 7th photo is just another shot of the train apart but I'm showing you the black plastic switch separated from the motor mount.

 

The 8th shot is the underneath area where the truck is and that is where you will install the Kato decoder.

 

The 9th & 10th photos are showing you that the train can be lit. I did this by modifying the Kato light set. Because the shell is thin plastic, I took mine out after I did it because I was afraid that the heat from the light would melt that shell.

 

Please post and tell us how it worked out.

Best of luck.