Tomix Kiha 40-2000

[disturbman]

12 MPixels and macro settings. In fact, that type of photo is one of the reason I buy this cam. I knew that for the price I was willing to pay (~150€) I was going to have a good macro, a video mode and to be able to control everything manualy.

 

As for KiHa, I invite you to check this link. In any case your KiHa is a JR Central Express DMU. I like it very much but if you like strange DMUs you should have a look at the North Rainbow Express or Hakodate Express and maybe some KiHa 65. And If I remeber correctly JR Central have some EMU that look a little bit like the 85.

[Martijn Meerts]

Something to keep in mind, is that with the size of the sensors on point & shoot digital camera's and pro-sumer digital SLR's, is that at a certain point adding more megapixels won't increase quality of the image anymore. Supposedly the threshold is around 10-12 megapixels, after that you'll want to go for a full frame SLR.

 

Subway, you might want to check if your camera has decent manual settings. Manual focus, setting aperture, white balance, iso etc. will help a lot. You can get a fairly cheap and flexible tripod (for example, http://joby.com/products/gorillapod/) which will really help get rid of blurryness. Make sure to turn off any image stabilization features when using a tripod though.

[SubwayHypes]

yea i have a good manual setting, right now most of my pictures are in a tungsten setting because otherwise my pictures come out very orangish tinted.  i also have been changing my exposures and getting close to what i want.

[SubwayHypes]

nice link

 

"All Diesel Train starts with the symbol "KI".

Symbol

 

 

Usage

 

HA=Normal class

 

 

- 8 = High Power Engine with Torque Converter (Express Type)

[marknewton]

Couplers in Japan (we should start a thread on this, I think) come in one of two varieties: so-called "Knuckle" couplers for loco-hauled stock, and "Scharfenberg" couplers for MUs. A DMU (such as your KIHA40-2000) with knuckle couplers is unusual (but not unheard of).

 

Don, it's a little more complex than that. There are at least four distinct types of coupler used in Japan, and there are distinct variants of all three types. In addition to knuckle and "Schaku" couplers, there is also a Japanese derivative of the US Tomlinson coupler, and what could best be described as link-and-pin.

 

The couplers on the KiHa40s are a type of knuckle known as a "tightlock" passenger car coupler, AAR type "H". They have projecting tongue which is visible on the right-hand side of the knuckle, which engages in a matching socket on the left. They are designed so that they will not separate vertically in a derailment. Functionally they are the same as the more modern type "F" shelf couplers commonly seen on tank cars. From memory, the couplers on the KiHa40 are 1/2 size, common on railcars throughout the world.

 

Disturbman, your KiHa40s look very nice, I have one in HO made by MicroAce, and I'm very happy with it.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[CaptOblivious]

Couplers in Japan (we should start a thread on this, I think) come in one of two varieties: so-called "Knuckle" couplers for loco-hauled stock, and "Scharfenberg" couplers for MUs. A DMU (such as your KIHA40-2000) with knuckle couplers is unusual (but not unheard of).

 

Don, it's a little more complex than that. There are at least four distinct types of coupler used in Japan, and there are distinct variants of all three types. In addition to knuckle and "Schaku" couplers, there is also a Japanese derivative of the US Tomlinson coupler, and what could best be described as link-and-pin.

 

The couplers on the KiHa40s are a type of knuckle known as a "tightlock" passenger car coupler, AAR type "H". They have projecting tongue which is visible on the right-hand side of the knuckle, which engages in a matching socket on the left. They are designed so that they will not separate vertically in a derailment. Functionally they are the same as the more modern type "F" shelf couplers commonly seen on tank cars. From memory, the couplers on the KiHa40 are 1/2 size, common on railcars throughout the world.

 

 

Mark, would you be willing to start a new thread, with more detail? This is really useful to know!

[marknewton]

I'll do that Don, give me a day or two to collect some information and I'll start one up.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

 

EDIT: Don, it's taking me a little longer than I expected to start this coupler thread up. A bit of research has shown that some of my assumptions were incorrect, and that there are more types of couplers used in Japan than I first thought. And, for clarification, can I ask if you could cite an example of what you described as Scharfenberg couplers being used on Japanese trains? I haven't been able to find any, and I think we've both mis-identified another type of coupler.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[clem24]

Something to keep in mind, is that with the size of the sensors on point & shoot digital camera's and pro-sumer digital SLR's, is that at a certain point adding more megapixels won't increase quality of the image anymore. Supposedly the threshold is around 10-12 megapixels, after that you'll want to go for a full frame SLR.

 

For a P&S with a tiny sensor, 6-7 MP is about ideal. Any more than that and the photosites (i.e. individual pixel sensor) get so tiny that they pick up much less light. The camera electronics has to work harder, and the picture tends to be very noisy. A few buck the trend, like the Panasonic LX3 and Canon G10. But increase the ISO on these and noise becomes really apparent.

 

For DSLR using APS-C sensors, I would say 10-12 MP is ideal. Again, any more than that and noise becomes more apparent (though to a lesser degree). A 10-12MP camera is more than adequate for a 16x20 print. For me, increasing MPs increases file sizes, which means more memory required, etc, etc... while adding absolutely no tangible value to the image.

 

All in all, megapixels is a marketing tactic used by camera manufacturers to make you believe that you need more MPs to get better pictures, when this is NEVER the case. Good pictures are made by good photographers. This does not mean pro. It means taking pictures are based on practice and experience. An analogy I like to use: give a race car to a person that can't drive and they won't know how to drive it fast, let alone drive it.

 

Ok back to discussing trains now.  :D

[Bernard]

Quick interruption - How about starting a new thread about "Photographing your Trains" -  Clem or Martijn?

[Martijn Meerts]

Don't ask me, I only know the theory, my pictures suck =)

[clem24]

Quick interruption - How about starting a new thread about "Photographing your Trains" -  Clem or Martijn?

 

Ok sounds good.. Except I can't seem to pick a forum! Anyway, it's getting late, need to get to work tomorrow. But here are some preview shots of me playing around tonight.

 

 

 

[Bernard]

Clem - Nice photos. You do bring up an interesting question, what platform to stat a new thread on "Photography"

Is it a new platform?

[clem24]

Clem - Nice photos. You do bring up an interesting question, what platform to stat a new thread on "Photography" Is it a new platform?

 

How about a forum called "Photos/videos gallery" where people can share pictures and videos of their models and layouts and discuss photo/video techniques.

[CaptOblivious]

Clem, is that EF65-500 H0 scale, or just super-detailed? It's an amazing model either way.

 

I new forum might be called for…hrm…I like the idea.

[clem24]

Clem, is that EF65-500 H0 scale, or just super-detailed? It's an amazing model either way.

 

Amazing isn't it? It's just a run of the mill Microace N scale EF65 straight out of the package. Cost... $50. They've come a long ways in a very short time. I was so impressed by it that I wrote up a review and took some shots for another member here and on my mailing list. He wanted pictures to add to his site as well, which is why I threw together the lighting rig and took pics.

 

Anyways..... So so sorry for hijacking this thread! Maybe I'll start a new thread with the Microace.