N-scale catenary?

[scott]

Does anybody have any preferences for purely decorative n-scale catenary poles? Or thoughts on what's the least expensive way to go about it?

[CaptOblivious]

As near as I can tell, the choices are pretty much Tomix or Kato. Since you're permanently mounting your track, it doesn't matter which you go with.

 

I've never seen the Kato, but the Tomix ones are nice and inexpensive. You will have to do a small amount of hacking, maybe, to either cut the base off, or gouge the foam near the track to make the base flush with the ground, but its not a big deal.

[Bernard]

Here is a list of Catenary poles from Hobby Search. Kato makes them for their double viaduct set.

http://www.1999.co.jp/search_e.asp?Typ1_c=104&scope=1&scope2=0&urikire=1&itkey=catenary

 

And here is MB KLein's list:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=catenary+poles&Search.x=14&Search.y=5

[scott]

Thanks! Sometimes, not having too many choices is a good thing....

[bill937ca]

 

I've never seen the Kato, but the Tomix ones are nice and inexpensive. You will have to do a small amount of hacking, maybe, to either cut the base off, or gouge the foam near the track to make the base flush with the ground, but its not a big deal.

 

I won't cut off the base.  That's doesn't leave enough clearance for the pantograph to clear the cross piece.

[Guest ___]

Does anybody have any preferences for purely decorative n-scale catenary poles? Or thoughts on what's the least expensive way to go about it?

 

I have the Kato single polls along my entire layout. I'm sure the TOMIX look and work equally well with the TOMIX track. I got a few of the TomyTec polls for double track but haven't used them though IMHO they look better than the Kato model. I hear the GreenMAx poles look pretty good as well, though they need painted.

[scott]

Thanks, all -- I ended up going with the Kato poles--mostly single, but some doubles for the tracks leading into the stations.  Eventually I'll need to rig up some supports to go under the trainshed, if/when I get that built.

[scott]

Does anybody know of any sites that have ideas for making catenary wires that are just for show? I've searched a few times, but only found stuff for people who are actually using catenary for power

 

I also seem to remember reading somewhere that people don't tend to bother with the wires in N-scale, and just use the poles. I'd be OK with that, but it sounds like the kid *really* wants the wires.  :-\

[CaptOblivious]

 

Does anybody know of any sites that have ideas for making catenary wires that are just for show? I've searched a few times, but only found stuff for people who are actually using catenary for power

 

I also seem to remember reading somewhere that people don't tend to bother with the wires in N-scale, and just use the poles. I'd be OK with that, but it sounds like the kid *really* wants the wires.  :-\

 

One way is to use Ginga's etched brass kits:

http://www.gingamodel.net/kasen.html

I have no idea where these can be acquired though! But man, they look good.

 

Another option is to get into brass etching yourself, and make something very similar…sounds like too much work, but I think there might be a market for your handiwork here if you were willing.

 

Finally, you could just do what the live cat people do, and solder some wire up. You'll want to use slightly thicker wire than scale, so that its visible. The trick is to 1) make it shorter than it should be, so it doesn't touch the pantographs and 2) figure out a way to hang it from the Kato poles you have. I think this is the most promising route, and is likely what I'll be doing for my dioramas…

[disturbman]

I was thinking that some Nylon fiber (or dental floss?) could do the trick if you don't look for too much accurate wires. I never try it myself but it could work I think.

[Bernard]

You could use a metalic thread that you can get at any fabric store to simulate wires but I think a lot of modelers leave the catenarys empty because to get access to the trains on the track will be difficult, the wires will block the way.

[scott]

The trick is to 1) make it shorter than it should be, so it doesn't touch the pantographs

 

Does it *need* to not touch, or is this just to avoid wear? I was thinking about using the wires as a safety measure in tunnels, to push the pantographs down where they're safe. (This probably isn't an issue with the Kato/Tomix/Microace trains--but I had a pantograph on a Bachmann  :P  E60 crash into a 2-inch high piece of Unitrack the other day--the pantograph was standing up way too high.)

 

I was thinking that some Nylon fiber (or dental floss?) could do the trick if you don't look for too much accurate wires. I never try it myself but it could work I think.

 

As long at it was gray or black, it could probably work, especially if it's just a single wire. Just the idea of hand-knotting all the little feeder wires from the curved catenary wire down to the straight wire makes my eyes cross.

[CaptOblivious]

Does it *need* to not touch, or is this just to avoid wear? I was thinking about using the wires as a safety measure in tunnels, to push the pantographs down where they're safe. (This probably isn't an issue with the Kato/Tomix/Microace trains--but I had a pantograph on a Bachmann  :P  E60 crash into a 2-inch high piece of Unitrack the other day--the pantograph was standing up way too high.)

 

Avoiding wear is enough reason, I think—do you know where to order replacement pantos for your Kato models? If you do, several of us here would like to know ;)

But, seriously, they might catch on thread or other materials, causing a nasty wreck. Moreover, pantos on Japanese models are not sprung like live cat pantos, or the prototype: If you push them down, they stay down, and this looks bad too.

 

The good news is that, as you've noticed, Japanese pantos are shorter than others. So you could set the wire low enough to push down on the E60's (is that panto sprung?), but high enough to not touch the Japanese models.

 

I was thinking that some Nylon fiber (or dental floss?) could do the trick if you don't look for too much accurate wires. I never try it myself but it could work I think.

 

As long at it was gray or black, it could probably work, especially if it's just a single wire. Just the idea of hand-knotting all the little feeder wires from the curved catenary wire down to the straight wire makes my eyes cross.

 

I would avoid using thread if you will allow it to touch any of your pantos, as it's easy for small bits to catch on thread. I can only imagine what would happen if this occurred at high speeds…

But, you might also try super glue. CA doesn't stick to waxed paper. Perhaps you could make a jig, cover it with wax paper, lay the thread out on the wax-paper-covered-jig, then just douse the thread with CA, instead of tying it all together?

[Guest ___]

Spierwire (or Spider Line depending on where yo live) is similar to a monofilimant dishing line but has a metallic type of finished would work fine.

[scott]

Thanks for the ideas, guys--something out of all this must be workable.

 

FWIW, the pantographs on our E60s are sprung (not that I'm hoping to use these things forever, but they'll do for now), and I think the Euro-engine pantographs are sprung. But I can't believe I had already forgotten about the Japanese models....