mrpig Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Cut the wires at the opposite diagonal corner of the brass strip. Link to comment
mrpig Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 This shows the wires and brass pickup strips tinned. Use a small tip and make sure the iron is hot so you don’t melt the plastic. I only spend about 1-2 seconds on each brass strip. Make sure the iron and brass are clean so the solder takes as fast as possible. Link to comment
mrpig Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Use tweezers to hold the wire and again be as fast as you can. This should only take ½ -1 second each. Link to comment
mrpig Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 All done. Nothing is visible once the end goes back on. Program to your liking but don’t forget to disable the function wires in both dcc and analog. I also set all my dcc’ed trains to the correct scale speed I hope this is useful. If anyone knows of other sets that use this chassis, let me know so I can edit the list at the start. Link to comment
Bernard Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Thanks for posting your Tomix decoder install over here, it is extremely well detailed and informative. A couple of us are having problems with Tomix trains after we've installed the decoders, have you run into any problems with them after your installs? I like what you did with milling out the chassis to avoid the potential bump in putting back the top piece onto the chassis, that is one problem I had with my E1. Link to comment
CaptOblivious Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 I wish I had a drill press…I have to mill all my frames by hand. Slow and tedious! WELL DONE. This is one of the neatest Japanese model installs I've seen yet. Have you submitted this install to TCS to get your free decoder? Welcome to the forum! Link to comment
mrpig Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Bernard - no worries, I wish I had found this forum earlier. What a great source of info in a short time. I have not had a problems so far. They all get a good burn in on the lounge room loop for at least a couple of hours (no handbrake to tell me off). Capt - They are a lot cheaper now. Mine is just a cheapy Chinese job. I gave all the spindles a good reefing and took the one with the least play. Got at the local permanent market. I didn't know TCS did that, will definitely have to look into that. There is more on the way. Working on the re-designed Tomix 400 right now. Link to comment
CaptOblivious Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Capt - They are a lot cheaper now. Mine is just a cheapy Chinese job. I gave all the spindles a good reefing and took the one with the least play. Got at the local permanent market. I didn't know TCS did that, will definitely have to look into that. For me, it is also a matter of space; My family rents a 750sq ft apartment, and what basement space we've been alloted has been turned into a darkroom… For you, http://www.tcsdcc.com/customerpics.html Link to comment
Martijn Meerts Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Very nice install ;) One thing I'm wondering though, what about the heat? I know heat isn't that much of a problem with modern decoders anymore (not like the old ones that used to burn up if they didn't have enough airflow around them ;)) I have actually seen a decoder catch fire (and burn a hole in the locomotive shell) because it was too close to a flywheel. I believe the flywheel was actually touching the decoder. Link to comment
mrpig Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 Martijn - The longest I have run one for is about 3hrs at 1/2 to 3/4 scale speed with no problem. CaptO - bummer on the lack of space. Link to comment
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