Peco PL-26R Switch to work Tomix turnouts

[welshdodger]

Hello all

Can Any one draw me a diagram for the wiring of A Peco  PL-26R Switch to a tomix turnouts and crossovers

So i can throw the switch and the points will move

hope you electrical wizards can help

thanks

welshdodger   

[The_Ghan]

No, and I'll explain why:

 

The PL-26 range is designed to work with 3-wire point motors, such as the Peco PL-10, and the Tomix turnouts use a 2-wire point motor.  When you wire a PL-10 only the +ve lead goes through the switch.  Depending on which way you throw the switch the current will pass through only one of the two +ve OUT leads, operating the solenoid at one end of the PL-10 motor to pull the turnout in that direction.

 

2-wire turnouts such as Kato and Tomix require both the +ve and -ve wires to pass through the switch, which actually reverses the current running through the two wires.  There is no single Peco switch that will do the job.

 

You could build a circuit board to go between your PL-26 and the Tomix turnout, but it would be cheaper and quicker to use the proprietary Tomix switch.  I would even suggest buying one of the cheaper Tomix controllers simply to power the switches and turnouts.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[welshdodger]

Thanks Ghan,

Why i asked for help on the wiring is that i came accross this web site

showing Peco switch working with tomix turnouts

http://raicho.home.xs4all.nl/model/control/tomixctl/tmx5502.htm

I dont understand there digram, and was hopeing to get a little more help

If you say its not viaable way of wiring

I properley take your advice

thanks again

welshdodger

[The_Ghan]

Welshdodger,

 

I know Mark's website very well and just had another look at the section on Tomix turnouts with Peco switches.

 

I get what he means, but I don't think I can test it myself.  My old DC controller doesn't have a separate Ground terminal.  Does yours?

 

If yours does, try this simple test first:

1. Wire a simple lamp from +ve DC Accessory to GND.  The lamp should shine brightly;

2. Wire the same lamp from -ve DC Accessory to GND.  The lamp should shine equally bright.

 

If the lamp shines brightly on both occasions then you can proceed as follows:

 

NOTE:  have you ever wired a PL-26 to a PL-10? If so, you would know that you have one IN terminal and two OUT terminals.  What Mark is doing is reversing the use of the terminals - IN is used as OUT and vice-versa.  Also, I prefer NOT to chop the plug off the end of the Tomix turnouts.  Instead, I buy Pin Headers and solder wires to the back.  The Tomix plug will fit the Pin Headers.

 

Now:

1. Connect one wire from the pin header to the GND on your controller;

2. Connect the other wire from the pin header to the IN on your PL-26;

3. Connect one OUT wire from your PL-26 to the +VE on your controller;

4. Connect the other OUT wire from your PL-26 to the -VE on your controller.

 

Test:

1. Connect a multimeter to the two pins on the header;

2. Throw the switch in one direction, should give you a brief reading of +6 or +12v DC;

3. Throw the switch in the other direction, should give you a brief reading of -6 or -12v DC;

 

It helps if your multimeter can record maximum voltages.

 

Now connect your turnout.  It should work fine.

 

TIP: If you're using the pin header suggested and the turnout is working in the opposite direction to the switch, there is no need to follow Mark's advice about changing the wiring - simply plug the connector into the header the opposite way around.

 

I think I've got that right.  KenS, feel free to jump in here ... 

 

I hope all that makes sense.  I don't have time to do a drawing for you until the weekend.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[KenS]

I think I've got that right.  KenS, feel free to jump in here ... 

 

I don't know the PL-26R myself, and I've never seen a model RR power pack with +, - and GND DC outputs, but the description you gave makes sense. I think you'd probably need to build a power supply, or use an old PC power supply (internal kind, not a laptop external brick) to get +/- 12V and GND.

[The_Ghan]

I think I've got that right.  KenS, feel free to jump in here ... 

 

I don't know the PL-26R myself, and I've never seen a model RR power pack with +, - and GND DC outputs, but the description you gave makes sense. I think you'd probably need to build a power supply, or use an old PC power supply (internal kind, not a laptop external brick) to get +/- 12V and GND.

 

 

I'll check my old DC transformers over the weekend ... I can't remember the brand but they are Someone & Such'n'such brand, made in the UK in the 1950's-60's.  Someone has talked about them in-forum before.  I also have a Lima one c1980 which I know doesn't have a GND.

 

Seriously, for all the effort I'd just buy the Tomix switches, but if Welshdodger already has enough Peco switches it's worth exploring.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[CaptOblivious]

I've just read the instructions, and I not only believe that I understand them (incredible! But then, this is my job), I also can clearly see why they might be causing confusion, and expect that I can translate them into laymens' terms as well as a set of actionable instructions come morning. It looks quite simple actuall, provided that oneunderstands the transformer reffered to as outputting an AC voltage, as one can derive a virtual ground along with both (relatively) positive and negative voltages for controlling a bipolar device like the Tomix turnout motors.

[CaptOblivious]

Nevermind, his directions presume that you are using an AC transformer with a center-tap "ground", quite rare in N.American transformers. However, there are circuits out there that you can build to give you +12V, 0V, -12V. Or you can convert a PC power supply as Ken suggests (although the -12V source might not be able to handle the 1-2A of current the turnout will draw.)

 

Or you could just buy the Tomix point switches; I begin to agree with Ghan that this is a better way to spend your money!

[welshdodger]

Thanks you all for your help

I have a problems getting tomix switches and controllers due to our Customs people wanting a extra £30.00

on top of cost just to clear customs

I can get hold of Kato Controllers no problem as most of of model train supplies-er have a large stocks

Question is will the kato  switches with there controllers work with tomix turnouts and crossovers

if so that could solve my probems

Again thank you all you been very helpfull

welshdodger         

[CaptOblivious]

Short answer: yes. Longer answer: but they use incompatible connectors, so be prepared to splice a lot of wires. But this might be a good solution for you. Do you have a Kato throttle to attach them to?

[welshdodger]

Thanks CaptOblivious

No I haven't got a Kato Controller yet.

I seen somewhere I can buy the 2 Kato Switches and use a 12v dc power pack with them

If this is not possible i will buy kato controller

Never guest this subject would throw up so many questions than answers

Thanks for all your support

welshdodger   

[The_Ghan]

Welshdodger,

 

It seems that you're going to have to do some messing around.  I've thought about this over the weekend and I think your best bet is to go for some cheap automotive switches and do your own wiring.  The switch you want is a 2P2T Momentary, also known as a DPDT Momentary switch.  You can go for rocker or toggle.  Then follow these steps to wire it.

 

I'm sure you can pick up as many switches as you need locally at an automotive store.

 

As I suggested in an earlier post, using pin headers will mean that you don't need to cut the plugs off your Tomix points.  It will also mean that you can reverse the way the switch works simply by reversing the way you plug the points into the pin header.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[welshdodger]

Thanks Ghan

I am all sorted I bought Kato Turnout control switches,with a Kato DC Converter that plugs straight into the Kato Turnout control switch 

You take a AC 17V output and splice in the DC 24_842 DC Converter

A bit more splicing the leads from the switch to the turnouts

Works a treat

Thanks to you all

Welshdodger