Having some problems on my track.

[SubwayHypes]

Whenever i run trains on my track, they have intermittent speeds, they will run normally, then seem to stall and slow down, then run normally, and then usually, they straight up die.  The lights power up and everything, but no movement in either direction.  I know this isnt my motor cars, because i ran several that have run fine in the past.

 

I am thinking its the current in my track?  It must be getting cut off somewhere my track is not totally level, i may have answered my own question but i want to get verification from the pros.

 

How can i make sure my track always has full current running through it. 

[Martijn Meerts]

Add more connections from the power supply to the track, otherwise known as dropping a feeder every so many pieces of track.

 

To make sure it's not the motor cars though, try laying down a simple oval and testing them. Usually if you have a power drop somewhere on the layout, train behavior will be predictable. They'll slow down, but they hardly ever come to a full stop. Generally, if there's enough power to light up the lights, there usually is enough power to run the motor, albeit at very low speeds.

[Bernard]

Subway - As I recalled you running DC on Kato Unitrack. As Martijn has suggested it's not a bad idea to run feeder wires at various sections of your layout. I think with Unitrack you don't have to solder the wires to the track but there is a "plug" underneath it. I also remember that part of your track is set on WS inclines but there is an area where it isn't supported at all, there could be a break in the connection right there.

 

As Marti also said it is a good idea to test the motor car on a test track to make sure it is running alright.

Lastly, clean the track, it can only help for better proformance regardless.

Let us know how it's worjing out. (There is a recent thread on "Feeder wires")

 

I almost forgot, check your rail joiners, you might have one that isn't making contact.

[CaptOblivious]

Do you have a multimeter? Get a cheap one from the hardware store if not. Take the trains off, jack the throttle up, and test the voltage at every section of track, esp where the train slows down. If the voltage remains near 11-12VDC, it's your train. If the voltage dips real low where the train slows down, its your track---more feeders are needed where the voltage drops.

[Guest ___]

This is going to sound weird, but on my track, my trains slow down as they approach the two feeder tracks. Once the engine clears the feeder it picks up.

[to2leo]

One of the advices from Kato Unitrack is to connect the feeder in an area that is before any turnout. 

If you have a station turnout, do not put within these two turnouts. 

 

The instructions are clearly marked in your double crossover track package for those who have more questions.

 

Hope that helps.

[bill937ca]

Is your track clean?

[SubwayHypes]

Yea it is definately not the motor cars, my track is really "ghetto rigged" right now, there are sections of track that arent supported so i am pretty sure thats where im losing connection, i think i will try that feeder technique too,

[Bernard]

Subway - I took a look at the layout and the area that is off the WS incline needs to get on the incline for support. Where there is an overpass, you have an object underneath the Unitrack to bridge the gap.

Here is what I suggest, get some foam card which you can get at Staples, Walmart, or any craft of art supply store and it is inexpensive. The board is lite and thin but very sturdy. Level out the gap between the 2 sections of WS inclines and join them with the foam card. You can even trace the radius you will need to cut with the Unitrack in place. Leave extra at both ends of the foam because you will have to bevel out the end parts to WS incline (like a tongue and groove) so the board fits right in there and is supported but the incline. This is not to say you will not have to support the foam card, which you should do, but it will support the Unitrack over the gap.

Here is a photo of how it used the foam card (I used black card since I planned to use it inside of a mountain):

[Guest ___]

I'm experiencing a similar situation myself at the moment. I noted that it started after laying some plaster cloth. Aside from the risers you have placed down, have you begun any scenery work yet?

[CaptOblivious]

Subway - I took a look at the layout and the area that is off the WS incline needs to get on the incline for support. Where there is an overpass, you have an object underneath the Unitrack to bridge the gap.

Here is what I suggest, get some foam card which you can get at Staples, Walmart, or any craft of art supply store and it is inexpensive. The board is lite and thin but very sturdy. Level out the gap between the 2 sections of WS inclines and join them with the foam card. You can even trace the radius you will need to cut with the Unitrack in place. Leave extra at both ends of the foam because you will have to bevel out the end parts to WS incline (like a tongue and groove) so the board fits right in there and is supported but the incline. This is not to say you will not have to support the foam card, which you should do, but it will support the Unitrack over the gap.

Here is a photo of how it used the foam card (I used black card since I planned to use it inside of a mountain):

 

 

 

 

 

I just watched this video you posted to YouTube of your E531 running along the elevated track, and it looks like the train nearly falls off when it first hits the super-elevated portions that aren't fully supported! For this reason, I agree with Bernard's diagnosis.

[Guest ___]

Having not watched that video in a while, I hadn't noticed that big ole sag there on the El towards the end of the camera.

[alpineaustralia]

I notice 2 things from your video:

 

1. your elevated track seems to have a negative camber and so I suspect that it is momentarily coming out of contact as it starts to enter into the curve;

 

2. my elevated curve track also poses a point at which only certain trains stop. I figure that as the front of the train starts to inward camber, the tail end of the train isnot and so the twisting is sufficient to cause a momentary disconnect which in DCC is sufficient to stop the motor.  Also, if the wheels are too close together, the cambered track can also cause a momentary disconnect.

[SubwayHypes]

guys i got rid of all the "hanging" spots, or most of them i hope.  i did a few test runs and one track powered by a MRC200 is running fine, but my other track powered by the Kato powerpack is still having the problems.  My e217 will suddenly die out, i have to reset the powerpack and replace the motor car back on the track before it runs again, but usually dies before the lap is finished.

 

i want to install the feeders and try the multimeter trick, but havent got to it yet,  i will  post a new video of my track in a few minutes.

[SubwayHypes]

Heres a quick video of the new layout, the 651 is running on the good side of the track, there is relatively no slowdowns or stops, however the lights on this train are never full power, i know they work because when you "brake" and give full power all the lights light up, but when its running the lights flicker and only work on a few cars.

 

 

 

Also, at the end of the video, you can see how the incline slopes down, my trains are hitting this corner at relatively high speeds and sometimes derailing, any ideas how to fix this?

 

Also, i have a feelings some friction on the track is helping this, so i want to clean the track real quick, what do you recommend using?

[Bernard]

Subway - measure the height of the table to the second level of your layout. The grade might be too steep for the train and as it it coming down from the incline it's speeding up and that is way you are getting the derailments. You can do a couple of things, decrease the speed as it goes into the incline or make the distance between the 1st and 2nd level less. A 2% incline is usually the safest to use. I do like that you have supported your track. Also at the far corner of the video where your incline starts, you can curve the WS incline to butt up with the upper level. One question, what is the type of material that the upper level board is made of?

[SubwayHypes]

Thanks for all the advice, i was finally able to get both tracks running good today, as you can see in this new video i finally got my trains running good.

 

 

I found out that the problem i was having was that the track was not being supported properly, and as the train would run over certain sections, the tracks would bend the cut off circuit and also create sharp edges to derail cars.  i added new supports on the bottom level, and i also made some cuts into the top level so the track molds easier.  Every track section and joint is now fully supported.  To slow down the trains at the bottom level i created a section where the track goes flat incline before it drops and evens out, it slows the trains down very nicely.

 

Now i can finally get down to scenery and buildings, which i have been stockpiling things for and anxiously awaiting.

[CaptOblivious]

Thanks for all the advice, i was finally able to get both tracks running good today, as you can see in this new video i finally got my trains running good.

 

I found out that the problem i was having was that the track was not being supported properly, and as the train would run over certain sections, the tracks would bend the cut off circuit and also create sharp edges to derail cars.   i added new supports on the bottom level, and i also made some cuts into the top level so the track molds easier.  Every track section and joint is now fully supported.   To slow down the trains at the bottom level i created a section where the track goes flat incline before it drops and evens out, it slows the trains down very nicely.

 

Outstanding! Glad to hear it. You do have to be careful about making sure every joint is well supported. I had a floor layout once where one joint on an incline was not supported at all, with the result that trains coming down that incline would have their leading coupler snag on the ties as the joint buckled---and the train would just launch itself like a pole-vaulter off the tracks. Yikes!

[Bernard]

Great news! Now what are you plans for scenery on the top level?

[SubwayHypes]

I have close to a dozen buildings, i am gonna create a downtown urban center with modern japanese look on the right side, combined with a more rural/suburban area on the other side.

[Bernard]

Subway - I saw in another post you are having problems with a drop in power at certain points in your layout, is this something recent? I took a look at your video and it seems like everything is running fine. Feeder wire will help that problem but I know doing feeder wires on Unitrack is different that the track I use, flex track where I had to solder the wires. I know members here will have a solution for you but you might have to drill into your table and connect the wires from underneath. 

[SubwayHypes]

yea i just dont know if those things are too advanced for me.  im not all experianced with soldering and running feeders, etc.

 

i am kinda doing things novicely i know, maybe in the future i will finally learn how to run DCC and strong currents. 

 

right now i just want to get some trains running and my scenery worked on. 

 

 

one other thing, is it possible to run multiple power wires from a kato power pack?  If i can have two feeders instead of one that would helps things a little bit. 

[Bernard]

Subway - I just posted a new thread about these solderless connectors. As I've said in the thread I've never used them but this might help you. But before you purchase them, lets find other members that have used the product and find out what they think of them.

Here is the product:

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

[to2leo]

Hi Subway,

A drop in your power could be something to do with where you place your Kato power feeder track.

 

This can be resolved in two ways:

1) Place your power feeder track before your mainline approach your turnout(s)

 

For siding scenario:

feeder>Kato turnout #6 left or right

 

For island station scenario:

feeder>Kato turnout #6 left>Kato turnout #6 right

Kato turnout #6 left>Kato turnout #6 right>feeder

 

2) if you have a Kato double crossover track, place a Kato 3-Way Extension Cord, #24-827, before and after the double crossover.

 

Why?  The turnouts are 'smart' and are power routing.

 

Also, it is possible to use Kato 3-Way Extension Cord, #24-827 to provide multiple wires using a Kato power pack.

 

Hope this is clear, if not feel free to ask you and I will post a picture for you.

[SubwayHypes]

^^ Thanks LEO!  that kato feeder wire is what i was looking for, this makes it a little more simpler for me.