British T-Track modules

[Martijn Meerts]

Basic T-Trak module is 8 1/4 inch deep though, which is around 210mm ..

 

I'm just wondering considering I'm still figuring out which depth to go for myself for most modules ;)

[katoftw]

everything i read is 300mm, 210 was an old size that never took off.  or might have been back in the 25mm track spacing days.

 

but as long as you space the tracks out correctly from the front of the module, it wont matter.

 

a few modellers are doing 365mm (to match corner modules) so they have no gaps and no backboards also these days.

Edited November 29, 2013 by katoftw

[Martijn Meerts]

The basic module picture on the t-trak.org frontpage still lists 8 1/4", but I have no idea how up-to-date that is. There's also tons of customised T-Trak standards nowadays.. 

 

For the stuff we're doing, we came up with a bit of a custom standard as well. Our basic corner modules are 310x310 for example. I'm really just experimenting with a somewhat standard depth that allows for track and a decent amount of scenery, but I'll also be adding scenery-only modules for when there's the need for more than just a simple landscape with a train running through it. A limiting factor is that I want to be able to make optimal use of a 900x600 sheet of plywood so I can get the most cost-effective lasercutting done ;)

[katoftw]

how do you do 310x310 when the bigger radius is 315mm?

Edited November 29, 2013 by katoftw

[Martijn Meerts]

We went with a smaller radius ;)

 

It's aimed mainly at trams and single car locals, although we're figuring out a way to do corner modules for shinkansen/express as well, but those need to be bigger than 315mm radius.

[katoftw]

most shinkansen will run 315.  i have a 500 that shouldn't run on 282 according to the instructions, but it does.  doesn't like top speed as it's trying to lift the inside wheels.  but using a power pack at 3/4, the 500 wont lift wheels on the R315.

 

although no reason why a larger modules with larger radi couldn't be made for shinkansens.  as long as you have enough modules to do a full oval, then it'll work.

[Martijn Meerts]

I know they'll run on 315 (and in many cases on smaller radii), but it doesn't exactly look very good. But we're still pretty much in the planning/testing stages ;)

[IST]

Looking good.. What's the depth of the module?

 

210 mm. For my limited modeller skills this is enough. :-)

And when I started this T-trak thing, I saw this size on the official page.

[Martijn Meerts]

Yeah, 210 is great for modules like yours... Once you start planning a small train station with a couple of building around it, 210 is all of a sudden very limited :D

 

I also think 210 looks better than for example 300, I like when the modules look rectangular rather than square for some reason.

[Densha]

I also think 210 looks better than for example 300, I like when the modules look rectangular rather than square for some reason.

When you do 600x300mm modules the problem solves itself. ;)

[katoftw]

yup a 618x300 module should look rectangle enough. or even a 928x300.

 

surprizing the anti square issue considering you have 310x310 corner modules planned.  :laughing3:

Edited November 29, 2013 by katoftw

[Martijn Meerts]

When you do 600x300mm modules the problem solves itself. ;)

 

Good point ;)

[IST]

Good point ;)

 

Yeah, but that's a lot of space to build something. :)

 

Seriously: I am more than happy to finished (or almost finished) this small t-trak module. I know some guys who have huge ideas, started to build 4m*2m or bigger layouts and after 3-6 month building they abandoned it because "it will never be ready" and lost their interest. So I start to think small and maybe later I will build something bigger as well.

[Densha]

Totally true. Hence I'll probably start with something like 300x300 and if it's going well I'll look into doing a station on a 600x300 module. 300mm depth really isn't that much and is easily filled.

Edited November 30, 2013 by Densha

[Martijn Meerts]

Yeah, but that's a lot of space to build something. :)

 

Seriously: I am more than happy to finished (or almost finished) this small t-trak module. I know some guys who have huge ideas, started to build 4m*2m or bigger layouts and after 3-6 month building they abandoned it because "it will never be ready" and lost their interest. So I start to think small and maybe later I will build something bigger as well.

 

My solution to the 'it will never be ready' problem, is that I start out any project with the general idea that it'll never be ready anyway.. And to be honest, a layout that's ready isn't really much fun either ;)

[Densha]

I don't agree. While it's not much fun having a layout completely finished it's still more fun completing section by section because you'll make visual progress that really makes a difference. But oh well you already know.

[katoftw]

Good thing about T-Trak is that there is always one more module to do.  I think is it a never ending cycle.  Complete one, new one starts.  Or maybe thats a burden? :laughing3:

[Martijn Meerts]

Yeah, you're never really done with T-Trak, which is a good thing.. Unless you end up building several hundred modules and have no space to ever set them up or transport them to some sort of event ;)

[katoftw]

thats when you rip the tops of you poorly modelled ones and redo them better.

 

i'm currently just starting out in model railroading, soi'm leaving the corner modules until later when my scenery skills get better.  do the straight modules.  and any they look bad once i've gained some better skills, will probably be done again.

[kvp]

I'm trying to figure out a design for t-track compatible shelf modules. I have two problems. One of them is material thickness. With normal plywood, the suggested thickness is around 6.35 mm. Is 5-6 mm enough? The corner blocks are only used for the screws or required for strength?

 

My other problem is that i would like to add a bridge module later and if i just turn a module upside down, then i can't use screws to raise the module. What is the correct way to make a bridge module in t-track? (strength and support wise)

 

My third problem is the backdrop. I'm thinking about the right thickness of plywood for a backdrop height of 20 cm (13 cm above track level). It should be strong enough to support the weight of the module, but light enough for transport.

Edited February 12, 2014 by kvp

[cteno4]

Kvp

 

Are you doing a box design? If so 5-6mm is actually overkill for ttrak modules. I routinely make them from 3/16" 4.5 mm ply and that's more than enough. I think Martin was doing 3mm and that worked well, just may need one small cross brace in the center of corner or deep modules to keep top from sagging with time.

 

I do my ttrak modules as thin modules 1" tall by just having front and back pieces of 1"x3/4" stock on the back and from that have a rabit joint for the ply to sit in. I put two small cross pieces underneath to put inserts in if I need to rise them. This makes a very sturdy module. This way I can plop them flat on shelf or boost them up with legs or some girders to come up to regular ttrak height. I also made a little set of cross block legs to raise this style module up to regular height as well so they look like little sushi trays.

 

I find the thin face looks much better than the 2"+ box style fronts on the modules. That face is very overwhelming and just painting it black does not make it go away. The thin face can be nice wood finish as well which makes a very nice display touch. Thin veneer strips can be easily put on to make a very pretty front while using cheaper wood for the frame.

 

http://japanrailmodelers.org/photos/thinttrak/index.html

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[katoftw]

i'll add to what jett said.  while certain thicknesses of ply might be overkill.  if you are creating modules that might work with t-trak modules.  you really need to ask around your local area to what they are doing.  as thickness of material will effect the height of the modules.

 

also jeffs example of the height of the modules.  i love the look of the thinner modules over the normal 70mm fronts.  but alas every t-traker in my area does the 70mm fronts, so i have to also.

 

the washingston guys do it differently to us aussie guys.  and i'm sure there would probably be 15 other ways of doing it also.  so ask how they do it close to home.  cos they are the ones you will be sharing track time with.

[kvp]

I quite like those thin modules, but since IST already have some very fine T-Track modules, i think i better go with the standard height. I'll try to use a thinner plywood then, but i still need a good solution for the bridge module, since just turning the box upside down won't work. (nowhere to put the legs and if i want a river in the middle, then the box becomes a non strengthened U. I also need a way for the backdrop to stay upright without extra support. Any ideas for these?

[katoftw]

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/pop_printer_friendly.asp?TOPIC_ID=35415

 

example of rivers half way down.  just get a normal module and cut the shap out you require.  use spare bits of material to make the base of the sloping banks of the river.  done.

[cteno4]

You can boost the thin modules up easily to run with standard modules.

 

I just made a girder system out of 1x2 lumber (0.75" x 1.5"). It's just two pieces that are 4' long with the tall side up that are separated 6" by two dowels. On the underside there are 4 inserts for leveling bolts. The modules just sit on the top and the girders with the girder front sitting a inch or so back from the module front. This makes the modules float nicely. Other great thing is you level 4 modules at once on uneven tables. It's very fast to just level up the girder units first then plop the modules down on top. We have one event on a lawn every year and about a 4" slope over a couple of tables, you could imagine how hard it would be to level the tables or all the individual modules in this situation! Also nicer without bolts every foot.

 

I also did the little block legs that go under the thin modules (think sushi block platter) to raise them individually if needed and those can have leveling bolts as well.

 

One other thing to think about is just using 3 leveling bolts instead of 4. I know heresy, he's a witch burn him at the stake! But make things easier on yourself! Just two in the front corners and one in the back center. Much easier to level. Do the front first for the down the table level and then the back one afterwards doe the front to back. Easier to get the rear one if on its own in the center as well. Tripod is plenty of support for the modules.

 

Jeff