Conductive Paint

[Guest Closed Account 1]

I knew there is a better way.

 

I have a 1/16th tip and other flat tips.

 

Low temp solder, another trip across town. Radio Shanti has nothing I need anymore.

[inobu]

I knew there is a better way.

 

I have a 1/16th tip and other flat tips.

 

Low temp solder, another trip across town. Radio Shanti has nothing I need anymore.

 

LOL,

 

Its a pain but after its said and done you will be set for everything....How do I know?  3 irons, 4 or different solder, 3 tip cleaning unit, clamps magnifying glass ....I'm sure you get the point......

 

I got to the point that I don't complain. I just look at it as one more tool and another situation removed from my strife list.

 

Inobu

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Whats the composition of your solder?

 

I have a 4% silver. It definitely doesn't flow quick so its not low temp. Wow this will really solve many of my soldering issues wirking with decoders and 30 ga wire.

[inobu]

1. 62%tin,36% lead, 2%silver. Dia .02 or 3mm

2. Lead Free Flux core Dia .032

3. 96%tin 4% silver Dia .032

 

 

The key is keeping the tip clean this is from wiki.

 

"When burnt flux and oxidized material begin to accumulate on the tip, they can block heat transfer and contaminate joints, making soldering difficult or impossible. "

 

your tip will always oxidize. As long as the tip stays hot it will continue to melt/burn the solder causing that black oxidation build up.

 

 

If you don't clean the tip off it will block the heat transfer to the rail. causing you to keep the tip on the rail longer and melting the plastic all the while.  

 

This is why you see the wet sponge for the tip. It allows you to wipe the tip clean each time you solder.  

 

 

 

The contaminants make the solder ball up instead in flowing. When the tip or surface metal are dirty/contaminated the solder acts like water and oil. It will not bond and you will have a big mess.

 

Inobu

[KenS]

Another point to emphasize that cteno4 made is the application of flux to the rail. You don't have to do this when using rosin-core solder as there's flux (rosin) in the solder. But doing it lets you control more precisely where the solder flows (it follows the flux) and it ensures that you have put flux where you want to make the attachment (flux cleans oxide off the metal, making the solder bond faster and stronger). You can get flux pens for precise application.

[cteno4]

Inobu's point is very important and one i tend to just not think about anymore while soldering its become so automatic, clean the tip, clean the tip, clean the tip...

 

one of these guys also helps to clean the tip every so often along with the wet sponge

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Soldering-Solder-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Steel-Wire-Stand-Set-/300602023027?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item45fd46dc73

 

its more abrasive and you will see when the tip does not clean well on the sponge i scrape mine in and out of the metal ball a few times and it really cleans it up. i usually then retin the tip some and plunge it through again and you end up with a very clean and shinny tip to work with. it is abrasive and will eventually scrape off the tip coatings, but necessary at times when it gets mucked up enough.

 

also different amalgams of solder have different melting points, so see whats listed on each so you know if its a joint you will need to get hotter for a good bond. silver solders are also harder to unsolder at a later date. they also flow and tin on the tip a bit differently than the plain tin/lead solders.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[KenS]

I just use a sponge, but I use it obsessively and retin afterwards.  I always make sure the tip is shiny before doing anything.

[cteno4]

just had coffee with ardesh of trainaids. the conductive paint he has does require two things to work well. one it has to be really, really mixed well. even a few seconds of sitting the particles can start settling out. the other really big one is you need to let it set up for at least 24 hours before running current through it. if you do it earlier it messes up the conductive joint and you dont get good current flow.

 

still think for a linkage like this that soldering is a much better way to go.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Progress Report:

 

Here's what low temp solder and 450F 1.6mm tip and a whole loot patience can do.

 

Did get a little bulky because I had to change wire colors. Happy with it.

 

Have to get moving on this project. Super TRAMp.

[cteno4]

webskipper,

 

cool, those are nice joints! glad this worked out for you, wonderful when a little effort pays off!

 

its nice unitram has all those precut slots under the tracks, wish they did that with the regular unitrak!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Thanks. Im still going to use a little epoxy on the wires. Little tugs are ok but once in a while one falls off moving the tracks around. Looks like a clean bond.

[cteno4]

could not hurt as the rails will shift around against the plastic when you pull plates apart some. use thicker epoxy so it does not wick out around the track. i usually let the epoxy sit a second in things like this and put it on when its just starting to set up so it doesnt spread. down side is you only have a short window to work with it and its really tacky at that point, but you get better control... ive found the epoxy putties dont work well for a mechanical joint situation like this. makes a great hard filler but not as good at joint bonding. you need something that will bond the wire, joint, rail and plastic well to keep them all from moving relative to each other.

 

jeff

[Guest Closed Account 1]

As you see I'm using the power cord depression.  A 3 X 19mm strip of 0.5mm styrene fits snug under the tabs. This should give the epoxy something to grab. Epoxy will come off when I want it to because I'm not going to scuff the plastic.