Bernard Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I have often seen Modemo trains for sale but I know nothing about them. Anyone who owns one, how would you review it (pros & cons) and how does it compare to Kato, Tomix, and Mirco Ace? And my follow up question, if you run DCC, how is it to install a decoder? Link to comment
bill937ca Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Modemo trams have four wheel pick up and run good as long as the track is clean. Most of the articulated cars have eight wheel pick up. I've had no problems with mine. Never heard of anyone running them on DCC. The earliest articulated models did have issues with grades and tight curves, but this is not an issue with releases over the past couple of years. Link to comment
Guest ___ Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 We set up T-trak modules that Philip brings to the shows. Since we reliagte most of the club's main layout to running full length trains, we run all the Modemo stuff on the T-trak. From what I've seen they run really well. BTW: I put a bid in on a few Modemo trams becasue my layout will only accommodate up to a three car train Link to comment
to2leo Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Aside from a few delicate pieces to look out for when pick up, I found my one Modemo tram is reliable on Kato Unitrack. Good slow speed too. Link to comment
SONIC883_de Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Some negative points: - The most trams has no light (Some new have) - The coupler has no spring to center it. So the coupler are 'walkiing from one the other side) - The motor is big and visible through the windows. http://picasaweb.google.com/kpernau/IGNippoNTreffen20082#5251130620068673826 Link to comment
alpineaustralia Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Has anyone installed a decoder in one of these? Do you get the Tomix problem with it? Link to comment
railzilla Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I installed a Digitrax DZ123 solder in decoder in a Modemo NT 83 Tram. The tram has no ligths so i anly attached the motor to the decoder. There is no way to hide the decoder but as you can see te motor trough the windows this didn't bother me. Finally i used some tape to stick the decoder to the ceiling. It runs well with the decoder and i haven't experienced any problem with it. I pick sup powr from 4 of its 6 axles. I have Kato Unitrak and Peco code 55 turnouts so it runs very smooth even at very slow speed. The unit can rus so slow that you barely can see its moving. Railzilla Link to comment
Bernard Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Railzilla - 2 questions for you. First, you use peco 55 turnouts and Unitrack, how did you match up the 2 tracks? Did you change over the Unitrack to code 55 and do you have any photos to show on how you did this? On the decoder install on your tram, would you mind posting a photo on what it looks like? This would be helpful for anyone who is on the fence about purchasing one of these trams, that is, if the decoder install is difficult. Kai - Thanks for the photos, it is a really nice looking tram! Link to comment
railzilla Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I use Peco code 55 turnouts with peco flextrack and unitrack with unitrack turnouts. si i only have to connect the tracks. peco Code 55 is in fact a Code 80 track with some of the rail profile hidden in the sleepers. Kato Unitrack is also code 80 so all you have to do is take off the unijoiner and use a normal rail joiner to connect the two tracks. It worked with the railjoner only however i soldered it just to be sure. To get the right height of the peco track you have to underly it with cork or semething similar. I started with peco as many odeltrain mages and internet sites state that its the best. I made a small layout including DCC/Loconer operated turnouts with tortoises. However for me its just too troublesome for me with Unitrack i have more time for other things than tracklying. My digicam is in holiday (without me :-[) so i cannot make you any picture of the decoder install. Sometimes i shoot some pictures during install but this seemed to easy. Only a plug an play decoder is more simple. Really if you have some experience with a soldering iron you can do it. You have to solder to wires to the power bars running along the vehicle plus yo have to bend the motor contact to isolate them from the power bar and solder the decoder wires to it. There is plenty of room for the decoder in the passengers compartment. If you have done any wired decoder install you can do it, if not its a good vehicle for you first install. Greetings Link to comment
serenityFan Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 I have just installed a hornby decoder on my enoshima tram a few days ago ... i have only tested it on a short track as my layout is in a dismantled state to work on the mountains. So far it is working fine. The method is exactly as described by railzilla. Moreover, this is actually my first install ;D I'll put up some pictures later ... Link to comment
stevenh Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Here's a Hornby Decoder in my NT14... runs like a charm. No lights, 4-axle pickup. They're easy and great fun. Link to comment
Bernard Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 I love when members post photos especially of the inner workings of a model. Immediately I can see what type of motor the train has and how to install a decoder and you also get a review. This makes it easy to decide if I want to purchase a model in the future. Thanks! Link to comment
bill937ca Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I love when members post photos especially of the inner workings of a model. Immediately I can see what type of motor the train has and how to install a decoder and you also get a review. This makes it easy to decide if I want to purchase a model in the future. Thanks! Keep in mind this is a re-issue of one of the earliest Modemo trams. Link to comment
Hobby Dreamer Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Great topic! I was wondering whether anyone has the Modemo Tokyu 300 Series trams? The cab extends quite a bit from the wheels so is there a problem with tight radii? Tomix appears to have a small radius track but if I am not mistaken its not the track that the road overlay fits. Hope I am wrong about that. It was my goal to start with a small tram layout. Sadly I just found out that I might be screwed for almost 8 months income- so my hobby aspirations may not be realized. If it works out in the end I hope to buy at least 4 trams to start with so I can have 2 lines. I have a tram barn kit that I got in anticipation. One last question: Is it possible to bend track downwards to go underground if that makes sense. Here is a video showing what I mean. I'm sorry if its a bit off-topic but cool none-the-less and certainly many of the ideas are transferable. I like this idea of hiding the trams this way instead of worrying about a corner. http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=jFVlos5gofY Sorry I don't know how to post the video other than the link. Thanks Rick Link to comment
bill937ca Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 The Tokyu 300 series cars will go around the C140 and C177 curves but C103 curves are too tight. It is not necessary to bend rails for a gentle grade. Both Kato and Tomix sell incline kits to go from surface track to elevated track. Link to comment
Hobby Dreamer Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Thanks Bill, I appreciate the response. I've seen your tram posts on a number of boards - interesting stuff. Do you suppose it would be possible to use flex track to generate tight radii - at least close to prototype. It would be great to have trams run in city streets, intersections and close to realistic curves. It seems a lot of trams layouts have the trams run either is straights or on a track parallel to the streets. Thanks for the reminder about the inclined track. It helps the going up part. It seems that whenever there is a track going down its after a 90 degree curve. It just seems to be an other dimension to the layout to have inclines etc. Thanks again! Rick Link to comment
serenityFan Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 And here are pictures of my enoshima tram (NT83) ... ;D Link to comment
bill937ca Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Thanks Bill, I appreciate the response. I've seen your tram posts on a number of boards - interesting stuff. Do you suppose it would be possible to use flex track to generate tight radii - at least close to prototype. It would be great to have trams run in city streets, intersections and close to realistic curves. It seems a lot of trams layouts have the trams run either is straights or on a track parallel to the streets. Flex track? The C140 is a radius of about 5.5 inches. Will flex track go that tight? Remember that is about as tight as the articulated cars want to do. Link to comment
Bernard Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 Serenity - Again I love those photos of installs. What decoder did you use in your tram? Hobby - Outstanding video of a London tram system. You can use flex track but as Bill said be careful of the radius being too tight. What I personally like about flex track is that there are fewer breaks in the track so there are few problems with electrical connections. In the video that is a steep grade going into the tunnel and if you notice the tram speeds up going downhill. Remember with a tram layout you are going to have to cover the track to become part of the street, but it will look great. I hope you do this type of layout, it looks like a lot of fun! Link to comment
alpineaustralia Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Great photos guys. Are the headlights hollowed out so that you could install small SMDs just behind them inside the tram (ala StevenH style)? Link to comment
bill937ca Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Another point to consider. I have tried running some of my Modemo trams on the steep grades on the previous version of my layout. Generally the cars with four wheels powered could not climb the grades that my trains or Modemo cars with eight wheels powered could climb. These were Tomix inclines with pretty much standard support spacing and grades. Link to comment
stevenh Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Serenity - Again I love those photos of installs. What decoder did you use in your tram? It looks like he has the exact decoder that I do. Hornby 8215. They now have the 8249 (or so) which is supposedly an upgraded version. I have 6 in a box and haven't used them yet. Are the headlights hollowed out so that you could install small SMDs just behind them inside the tram (ala StevenH style)? No... But I've got SMDs and am going to purchase some tiny drill bits to see if I can't destroy it and make it happen. I want to do so with my BTrain Shorties as well. Link to comment
alpineaustralia Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Ive just bought some red SMDs from Germany on ebay and I am going to try to hook them up to the decoder on an EF60 so that they turn on in the opposite direction to the headlights. I know you have already done something similar - do you have any suggestions? I figured I would wire 2 SMDs in series and connect them to the headlight for the opposite direction. Do you think i wil need a resisitor? Link to comment
serenityFan Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Serenity - Again I love those photos of installs. What decoder did you use in your tram? It looks like he has the exact decoder that I do. Hornby 8215. They now have the 8249 (or so) which is supposedly an upgraded version. I have 6 in a box and haven't used them yet. The one pictured is actually the Hornby 8249. The 8215 and 8249 have the same tag price, so I just got the newer one... Ive just bought some red SMDs from Germany on ebay and I am going to try to hook them up to the decoder on an EF60 so that they turn on in the opposite direction to the headlights. I know you have already done something similar - do you have any suggestions? I figured I would wire 2 SMDs in series and connect them to the headlight for the opposite direction. Do you think i wil need a resisitor? I think you will need a resistor, SMDs use similar voltages to normal LEDs, dont they? ;D Would love to install lights as well ... I am looking for golden white SMDs, have anyone ever come across some of them? Link to comment
Martijn Meerts Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 golden white SMD LEDs do exist, but they tend to be a bit bigger then what you'd want to use. Or at least, they were last I checked. Link to comment
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