Atlas MP15 HELP!!

[Barobutt]

So I was testing my new Tomix Centram using the old 9v trick.

 

The centram went so fast it derailed in the corners and flipped off the track.  It wasn't hitting bad track, it was just going so fast it flew off the track.

 

As a joke I put my life-like GP on the track.  It went quite smooth and slow, and of course promptly de-railed at the 103mm curve.  But it was amazing the speed difference!!

[Howard1975]

By the way, just to let you know, some of the MRC Tech 2 and Tech 4 powerpacks have a separate momentum switch, which allow you to turn the momentum on or off. My MRC Tech II, 2500 models have that switch. Also, both the Tech 4 220 and 260 models has a separate momentum switch. But, they all output at least 20 volts to the track, and the Tech 4 220 outputs a total of 23 volts to the track.

 

Here is a link to the Model Rectifier Corporation website, with all the features and figures, for all the powerpacks MRC is currently selling.

http://www.modelrectifier.com/train-controls/dc-power.asp

 

 

 

The Kato powerpack does not have any separate momentum switch, but it has a lower output of 12 volts.

 

If your Like-Like and Bachmann engines are stubborn, the separate momentum switch might come in handy for switching.

[Howard1975]

So I was testing my new Tomix Centram using the old 9v trick.

 

The centram went so fast it derailed in the corners and flipped off the track.  It wasn't hitting bad track, it was just going so fast it flew off the track.

 

As a joke I put my life-like GP on the track.  It went quite smooth and slow, and of course promptly de-railed at the 103mm curve.  But it was amazing the speed difference!!

 

Yeah I would have to agree, what a difference!

[Barobutt]

My plan is to use my potentially faulty and ancient mrc for my mainline track and just run my life-like, and use the kato power-pack I just ordered for my tram.  In the future if I EVER get my mp15 fixed I'll probably get another kato power pack for my mainline as well, or think about going DCC

[KenS]

Also, both the Tech 4 220 and 260 models has a separate momentum switch. But, they all output at least 20 volts to the track, and the Tech 4 220 outputs a total of 23 volts to the track.

 

Yow! What were they thinking?!?

 

I didn't believe that, until I went and read the manual on their site.  Even HO is usually a 0-16V DC range. You only need 23 volts for G (or maybe O). And only the smallest of MRCs current "Tech 4" line (the 200) is limited to 16V.

 

I think I'd avoid using any of those (except maybe the 200) with N-scale trains. Particularly with their version of "pulse" power, that seems like a really good way to fry a small N-scale motor.  And with pulsed power, that can happen even on low throttle settings.

 

On the other hand, I haven't seen any reports of problems, so this could be a red herring.  If the voltage listed in the manual is a "no load" voltage, which drops significantly when used to run a locomotive, there might not be an issue (i.e., if they're inflating the specs in the manual to impress people who think more is always better).  Still, I wouldn't take a chance on one of those.

[inobu]

You should throw that controller away before something bad happens.

 

If that thing fails during one of your "speed trials" it will surly melt whichever train shorts the on the rail. There are power principles behind

modeling RR and if you exceed those principles trouble lurks around the bend.

 

Don't mean to lecture but if your Tomix starts acting up chances are it will be from flying off the track. The smaller the unit the less tolerable they are to

stress.

 

If I were you I would read over this thread to pick up on the power principles to keep you out of trouble.

 

Just imagine that a little $2 9v battery could have flung that $100 tram to destruction.

 

Best wishes

Inobu

[Barobutt]

If I wanted to test my trains out at lower than 9v how could i do that?  If I taped two AA batteries together would that give me 3v or just 1.5v that lasts longer?

[inobu]

If I wanted to test my trains out at lower than 9v how could i do that?  If I taped two AA batteries together would that give me 3v or just 1.5v that lasts longer?

 

There you go!!! 

 

Lower the voltage is the slower the train runs. That way you control your tests. 

 

Inobu

[Barobutt]

So 2 AA batteries will give me 3v?  Ok I'mgoing to try!

[qwertyaardvark]

If I wanted to test my trains out at lower than 9v how could i do that?  If I taped two AA batteries together would that give me 3v or just 1.5v that lasts longer?

 

Depending on how you hook the batteries up:

 

(-)------[-_____+}[-______+}------(+) 3V

 

If in series: you add the voltages of the batteries, so 2 AA batts get you 3V

 

(-)-----|---[-_____+}-----|-------(+) 1.5V

          |---[-_____+}-----|

 

If in parallel: its just the voltage stated on the batteries, so you get 1.5V that lasts longer

[Barobutt]

I hooked 2 AA's up and my tram ran at about correct scale speed!! So cool to see it crawl along at 2.4v!!  It makes some clickity clackity noises in the curves but I went back and forth a couple dozen times and it never jumped the track or fell off.

 

My one concern is that sometimes after  a tight curve it doesn't fully straighten out, the body will still be at a slight angle.  But that's probably what I get for getting the cheaper tomix tram.  Wonder if the kato does that as well

[brill27mcb]

I like the Tech II power packs that I bought years ago for my kids to use. I also love the smooth-turning feel of the Kato power pack as well as its train handling, also the operation of the Tomix N-1000/1001 CL power units.

 

Rich K.

[Howard1975]

Barobutt, Have you received the Kato powerpack that you ordered? If it has arrived, how do you like it?

 

Howard

[bill937ca]

 

My one concern is that sometimes after  a tight curve it doesn't fully straighten out, the body will still be at a slight angle.  But that's probably what I get for getting the cheaper tomix tram.  Wonder if the kato does that as well

 

Kato trams sag in the middle, see a separate thread about that. My most recent tram body stays straight most of the time.  It may have something to do with the fit of the two pieces in the center.

[Barobutt]

Some updates to my saga!

 

I got my kato power pack and I got two kato RDC's in the mail as well.  All my locos love the power pack and can go very slow.  I went to the hoby shop yesterday after work to check in on things, and he had just gotten my engine back from his "guy". Apparently his wiring job was crappy so he re-did it, we tested the loco out and it runs smooth and wonderful, but no decoder!

 

Where the hell is my decoder???  The guy claims he doesn't know where it is but is looking for it.  The shop owner had directed a bunch of other work towards this guy, some decoder installations and such.  He butchered them all, none of them even run. The shop owner tells me he won't be doing business with this guy ever again and is going to have to spend the next week re-doing all the guy's work (the guy still demands to be paid too haha)

The shop owner thinks since this guy has a sort of "business" doing decoder installs and custom electrical work he just stole my decoder to use in a paying project and most certainly won't give it back now that they've fallen out...  drama!

 

So, the owner gave me an IOU for a 4-function decoder and is looking online and asking around his friends to find one, and still leaning on this jerk to return mine or replace it.  The loco is running great, just no decoder.

 

Oh and to top things off, when I got back my loco I noticed both the front and back couplers were broken...  but the store owner replaced them in the shop right there.

[Howard1975]

Some updates to my saga!

 

I got my kato power pack and I got two kato RDC's in the mail as well.  All my locos love the power pack and can go very slow.  I went to the hoby shop yesterday after work to check in on things, and he had just gotten my engine back from his "guy". Apparently his wiring job was crappy so he re-did it, we tested the loco out and it runs smooth and wonderful, but no decoder!

 

Where the hell is my decoder???  The guy claims he doesn't know where it is but is looking for it.  The shop owner had directed a bunch of other work towards this guy, some decoder installations and such.  He butchered them all, none of them even run. The shop owner tells me he won't be doing business with this guy ever again and is going to have to spend the next week re-doing all the guy's work (the guy still demands to be paid too haha)

The shop owner thinks since this guy has a sort of "business" doing decoder installs and custom electrical work he just stole my decoder to use in a paying project and most certainly won't give it back now that they've fallen out...  drama!

 

So, the owner gave me an IOU for a 4-function decoder and is looking online and asking around his friends to find one, and still leaning on this jerk to return mine or replace it.  The loco is running great, just no decoder.

 

Oh and to top things off, when I got back my loco I noticed both the front and back couplers were broken...  but the store owner replaced them in the shop right there.

 

That is great news -- at least for your new Kato power pack, and the Kato RDC's. But as for the Atlas MP15, at least it runs better now, with the Kato power pack. I hope you get that "decoder" issue straightened out. Good luck.

[CaptOblivious]

Total suckitude about this guy doing the "installs". I hope this works out for you. I'm rooting for you.

 

At least the good news is that your other problems all stemmed from a decrepit throttle, yes? That's a nice, easy solution at least!

 

Some updates to my saga!

 

I got my kato power pack and I got two kato RDC's in the mail as well.  All my locos love the power pack and can go very slow.  I went to the hoby shop yesterday after work to check in on things, and he had just gotten my engine back from his "guy". Apparently his wiring job was crappy so he re-did it, we tested the loco out and it runs smooth and wonderful, but no decoder!

 

Where the hell is my decoder???  The guy claims he doesn't know where it is but is looking for it.  The shop owner had directed a bunch of other work towards this guy, some decoder installations and such.  He butchered them all, none of them even run. The shop owner tells me he won't be doing business with this guy ever again and is going to have to spend the next week re-doing all the guy's work (the guy still demands to be paid too haha)

The shop owner thinks since this guy has a sort of "business" doing decoder installs and custom electrical work he just stole my decoder to use in a paying project and most certainly won't give it back now that they've fallen out...  drama!

 

So, the owner gave me an IOU for a 4-function decoder and is looking online and asking around his friends to find one, and still leaning on this jerk to return mine or replace it.  The loco is running great, just no decoder.

 

Oh and to top things off, when I got back my loco I noticed both the front and back couplers were broken...  but the store owner replaced them in the shop right there.

[rpierce000]

Can someone enlighten me about "the 9v trick"?  Is it to touch a 9v battery across the tracks to get a train to run without bothering to hook up power?  If so, I would keep DCC well away from it, the surge MIGHT fry something. We used to use 9v's on a stick to light rocket igniters. Not wise, but it worked.