Layout ready to start building!

[Dani]

Thanks!!! This layout is only possible thanks to the knowledge that all you spread across this fantastic forum.

 

Ghan: I already read this fantastic documents. I'm testing exactly what you say. I have isolated about 30cm of the end of the tracks (I realised the consumption sensor activates when all the car is in the isolated section, not only the first wheels) and I also put a detection before entering the yard station to slower the locos speed. As the hidden station is long enough (1,2 mts) I also divided two of the tracks with an extra detection section in the middle to be able to "store" two short trains instead of a long one. I have 3 reversing loops in my layout and my idea is to use bistable relays to switch the polarity. My Uhlenbrock detection modules can activate any Loconet output with any flank of the detection signal apart from informing the computer and that's how I'll change the state of the relay. I prefer this than using short-circuit modules (cheaper and also not depending of a computer software).

 

Bernard: I was scared to start such a complex model for a beginner like me, but now I'm sure everybody can do it. Just one recommendation: TONS OF PATIENCE. Check everything twice before fixing, work in the plan one full year if necessary, read a lot, ask a lot, search for videos, photos and read every post of this forum.

 

I'll post next advances!!! Bye!

[john_ibw]

Your benchwork. Awesome!

 

Bernard: I was scared to start such a complex model for a beginner like me, but now I'm sure everybody can do it. Just one recommendation: TONS OF PATIENCE. Check everything twice before fixing, work in the plan one full year if necessary, read a lot, ask a lot, search for videos, photos and read every post of this forum.

Can't agree more! If I may also add, in my case and relating to Japanese N scale, I can't imagine how I would I have managed without this forum and support from members

[Mudkip Orange]

Yeah, that's primo benchwork.

 

 

So when are you gonna lay the track?

[disturbman]

There is already some, it's more visible on Dani's weblog but he has layed the whole hidden yard,

 

By the way, Dani, great that you started to post your blog in english! It makes everything easier for the few of us that don't read spanish. :)

[Dani]

Thanks for your support, you are pushing me to never stop.. 

 

I want to share a pair of tips I use for fixing tracks (http://clubncaldes.blogspot.com/2011/06/my-tips-for-laying-track.html) because using a small hammer with those microscopic nails and my big and clumsy hands was hurting to much my fingers!

 

Also, how I manage to connect feeders to the main DCC loop (http://clubncaldes.blogspot.com/2011/06/electrical-tip-loop-and-feeders.html)

 

Disturbman: I'm doing my best with my English, but as I'm not an English speaker and I wrote a big percentage of the words (and 100% of the technical words) thanks to the dictionary, I'm conscious it will have many errors...    Please tell me directly what is wrong or impossible to understand!!! 

[The_Ghan]

Dani,

 

Interesting solution to nailing down your track.  I use a magnetic nail punch, myself.  Seems to be working well.

 

I think you're using Peco track, right?  If so, how do you find the Peco point motors?  I had to replace two today because the humidity has caused them to rust and they didn't work properly.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[KenS]

Dani, excellent work.  I really like those track feeders.

 

And your use of English is quite good. I have no troulble understanding it, and aside from an occaisional phrasing choice, most of it reads like what a native speaker would write. Keep posting on your progress and ideas.

 

I've tried to post a couple of comments to your blog using name/url, but when I click either preview or post, the comment just disappears with no message shown and no comment posted.

 

Here's my comment on your use of CA glue with wood:

 

I'd heard there were superglue (cyanoacrylic) glues formulated for wood, but I've never used them.  Usually superglue has problems with shear (sideways forces) and only holds well for tension (pulling forces). Is this why you also used screws? I usually use yellow wood glue (the waterproof kind), but it needs to be clamped and takes longer to dry.  I'm curious how well the glue you're using works.

[Dani]

@Ghan: What's a magnetic nail punch? I'm using Minitrix (code 80) but only for the hidden yard. The only reason is that I already had enough material to do it. Some switch solenoid point motors were 10 years old and the flex track more than 15 and everything is in good state. For the rest of the layout I plan to use Peco code 55 and under-desk servos for switches. I'll use the same servos used in other RF hobbies that now Uhlenbrock is selling. I've seen tortoises in action, but I feel Hi-tech servos are more reliable and small.

 

@KenS: Estrange what you say about posting comments in my blog... I'll take a look... 

The cyanoacrylic glue I use is specific for wood (or they sell it in this way...) and you can find exactly the same brand and reference (Würth) almost everywhere, they are present in more than 82 countries. I've tested it before use, and trying to separate two pieces glued 5 minutes before the wood was broken but not the joint. It's stronger that "white glue" or "carpenter glue" (literal translation from spanish) but it's true that it's not so flexible and that's why it can "brake" with sideways forces (brutal sideways forces... ). But traditional glue is too flexible, that's the reason to use both: I use cyanoacrilate only to fix ribs to frame and not the rib to rib joints. It's also very useful if you have to work alone and nobody can help you to hold pieces in place: one drop of cyanoacrylate, spray and you can hang yourself from that piece immediately!  xDDD Until now I'm very happy with this combination of glues and screws because the result is really strong and you can work really fast, no need to spend one day waiting to dry.

[KenS]

That cyanoacrylic glue sounds worth checking out for my future work.

 

And we call the yellow water-safe version of white glue "Carpenter's Glue" too.

[The_Ghan]

Dani,

 

This is the exact nail punch I use.  http://www.toolstore.com.au/estore/style/st58.930.aspx  It is magnetic and will pick up small nails.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[john_ibw]

Dani, I got myself a magnetic nail-driver for N/HO track laying.

 

It looks something like this http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/blackjack-brad-nail-driver-p-2363.html

 

And I got mine from frontline hobbies here https://www.frontlinehobbies.com.au/products/PP08000?RAIL%20MAGNETIC%20NAILER%20N/HO?RAIL%20MAGNETIC%20NAILER%20N/HO

[Dani]

I finished laying tracks for the hidden yard. I've connected point motors and detection sections, and seems to work very well.

I'm realizing how messy can become the wiring of the layout... just with that there are a lot of meters of wire!!! I'm trying to use a easy color code, wire clips, bridles with labels... or it will be a chaos.

 

Now I have to wait until my Peco 55 track arrives from Hattons..... tomorrow is the deadline according of what they said....

 

 

Complete post in my blog here: http://clubncaldes.blogspot.com/2011/07/hidden-yard-ready.html

[The_Ghan]

Hi Dani,

 

Thanks for the latest update.  I love your carpentry skills.  I'll give you an "A+" for that.  However, I think the storage track position could be problematic if you have a derailment.  It's going to be really hard retrieving a consist the gets derailed over those back turn-outs.  I can only give you a "C" for positioning of the storage track ... 

 

I've learned that the best place for storage track is along the operator side of the layout.  In your case, I would have put it parallel and beneath your main station.  I'd set it back about 6" and hide it with a black curtain.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[keitaro]

mate you can come to aus and stay at my house anytime for the price of building my next layout's table 

 

agreed with The_Ghan though bad positioning.

 

having said that my plan is going to be something similar as i wanted to have a subway along the front making it impossible to have like Ghan said.

 

though theres always modifications you make make though to get better access.

 

good luck on the layour i look forward to seeing in it action one day

[The_Ghan]

Hey Keitaro,

 

I also have a subway along the front - 2 storey, so that there is a bit of height to cater for the angle that people might look at.  The best option in this case is to:

 

a. if your layout is up against the wall: put the storage yard and loading track below the subway;

 

b. as my layout will (eventually) become a 5.6m x 4.0m donut, I've put my storage tracks on the inside, where the operator would stand.  But later, when my square donut is complete, the back side of the donut (which will be up against a wall) will be only 560mm wide and will have several levels of storage yard beneath the scenery nicely hidden by the magical black curtain.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[Dani]

You are right in all what you say, well, not in the A+. Photos don't show all the mistakes.... xDDD

 

About the storage yard it's true that it would be better in a parallel position close to the operator's side, but sometimes it's needed to make some sacrifices to accomplish other requirements. This diagonal disposition was the only possibility I found to have storage tracks of 1,3 meters long. On the other hand, it's completely straight and has very smooth curves at the enter and exit with no needs of helix ramps. The access is not so easy, but the possibilities of derailments are lower, and from the bottom you can access to both sides of the tracks and replace the point motors easily.

 

Keitaro, don't make again this offer, or I'll take a plane next holidays!!! Better you could come to Barcelona and teach me for free staying, I have a huge barbecue and the weather is perfect.... and I need all your experience to continue!!! 

May be we could open an off topic for interchanges.....

 

I'll continue posting progress!!!

 

Dani.

[Martijn Meerts]

Hmmm.. Staying in Barcelona for free, with a huge barbecue and good weather.... Anything I can teach you as well? ;)

 

I already went to the US to visit some forum people, Barcelona is much closer *cough* 

[The_Ghan]

Dani,

 

You might want to consider cleaning that hard-to-reach track too!   

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[SubwayHypes]

wow very nice looks promising...that underground layout looks cool you should put those concrete pillars and other things in there to make it look like a real subway yard...

[Dani]

I hadn't much time to advance in the layout, but I tested a micro-camera mounted on a low car, and the results are very good. It's a lighter spy camera I bought in e-bay for 14€:

 

 

 

Quality is not very good because I hadn't enough light, and you'll see non straight tracks because are not fixed yet, but this "lighter spy cam" is fantastic!!!:

 

 

[KenS]

That's really cool.  Great footage.  Now you just have to add sceney to all the hidden track. 

 

But why does your camera think it's 2007?

[Dani]

 

But why does your camera think it's 2007?

 

 

I just took it out from the box and tested....  I have to set up the date and time, but I couldn't wait to record a video.... 

[The_Ghan]

So cool Dani,

 

How does it work?  Does it record in the device?  Does it have a wireless transmitter?

 

I'd like to do something like this but I want it broadcasting the signal to my notebook, if I can.  Does anyone know what product might do this?

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

[Dani]

 

How does it work?  Does it record in the device?  Does it have a wireless transmitter?

 

 

No, it has a micro-SD inside and records on it in AVI format (720x480 HD) with sound, or JPG (1280x1024 Full HD) if you make photos.

With a long press on the "gas button" start/stop record. Short press makes photo.

 

After recording pull out the head of the lighter and a USB connector appears to connect directly to the computer and retrieve the files and charge.

 

I think it's impossible to embed more electronics like a wi-fi transmiter inside a lighter....

 

Cheers,

Dani

[cteno4]

well you can, a little wireless is about the same size, but the energy requirements are quite a bit more for the transmitter. camera/recording doesnt take much power so it run for 30-60 min on on a small battery back easily.

 

here is one tiny camera i have. the board is about 7.5mm x 7.5mm x 35mm, small enough to fit inside a train car. you need to get it power of 5-8vdc via batteries or dcc power (or rig a battery thats charged by dc power). i just got this a few weeks back and have not had a chance to test it out yet.

 

you can see the board for dani's cigarette lighter camera in this thread

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,2105.0.html

 

along with some info about other little cameras.

 

cheers

 

jeff