Getting train focus, layout planning and selling trains.

[David]

I'm trying to consolidate my trains with all the purchases and directions I've gone in. My biggest obstacle is space – in the future I will have a lot, right now I have almost none. I think my attempts to find happy solutions to this have led to many dead ends.

 

Right now I have one complete layout, my steam roundy round. This is DC and will stay that way. This layout let me explore scenery creation.

 

My next layout may or may not come into being – it will be another micro layout to use up the remaining Tomix switches and track I have. It will also be the only layout for what American rolling stock I don't sell off, though the 44 ton switcher will likely be the only motive power. I see it as an industrial layout, modeling an industries privately owned track around a factory or transfer station. My main goals will be basic DCC wiring (I intend the layout to have a single plug on the front to attaching the Zephyr) with self made toggle switches. I intend to learn ballasting and track painting.

 

Once I have some real space will be the next definite layout, which will be roughly a hollow core door (HCD) design. This will be a rough prototype of modern JR East on the west coast (Niigata and surrounding). I say rough because the main rolling stock will be my E127 Niigata and E127-100 Oito. It will likely also have some Kiha 110 and visits by short freight trains. A crucial element is this layout will be designed around 2-car stations. The intent of this layout will be to finalize some of the previously learned skills (get scenery right, do ballasting and track painting with Kato track) and to learn the basics for block detection, signaling and automation – I want the short sized trains so I can have about 3 stations with most single track.

 

The final layout, the big room sized one, is to be based around Tokyo with 10 and 11-car JR East commuter trains. These will all be Kato's modern DCC ready sets, of which I have 3 so far and may soon buy more. The main goal is automation with a number (likely 3) overlapping lines – one big station will have all 3 lines meet, while a couple of other stations having 1 or 2 lines via crisscrossing.

 

 

Apart from any comments I have 2 questions:

 

I've never really been one to sell off possessions. Any tips or advice on how to get shipping rates, packaging, etc? I hope to sell off any items here, or for American rolling stock, on trainboard. I live in Canada so I'd prefer to ship to Canada or the US, using insured and tracked packages.

 

I have a partial inventory of my Japanese stock that I might be letting go – do you think I could move any of it? Note that I want to get some DCC conversions done by the Captain, so I'm saving first dibs for him.

 

Some notes on condition:

 

Most of this stuff has seen very little run time, typically less then 2 hours. None have the stickers applied unless noted.

 

Unless otherwise noted the sets in book cases have all the following:

*Original undamaged case and dust cover.

*Original instruction booklet and unused sticker sheet in the original clear plastic bag (booklet sometimes has a light crease on the left, if you have enough Kato sets you know what I'm talking about)

*Original strip of bubble packaging

*Detail parts applied

*The sprues that the detail parts came from, with any extra parts (at least one set is missing an extra antenna as I used to replace a lost one)

 

Unless noted items in jewel cases have the following:

*Jewel case with plastic or foam retainer(s)

*Cardboard packaging if multiple jewel cases (i.e. 2-car set) where packaged together

*Sticker sheet if present

*Detail parts applied

*Sprues for the detail parts are a bit sketchy here, you'll need to have me check on a per item basis to see what has been retained.

 

800 Series Tsubame Shinkansen (6-car set Kato 10-491) with LED interior lighting

My first and only shinkansen. I bought it because I bought the 787 Tsubame Relay.... It has some really crisp detailing, more like a museum showpiece. But I just don't see any way that this will ever be more then a static model for me. I have no plans to make a separate shinkansen track and the larger (25m) loading gauge means I would need to design the big layout for one way out of prototype model. The detail parts are already applied, the stickers are not. I have installed Kato LED lighting kits in all the cars, though I'm not entirely happy about Kato's design for the lighting clip in the motor car, it makes the lighting less even then the other cars. A shim to push the light board up to the same height as the other cars would make a world of difference.

 

115-1000 Niigata Color (3-car set Kato 10-583) with scharfenberg style couplers and DCC in motor car.

I bought this with the JR East west coast line (what is now the planned HCD layout) in mind. However it has pulled the short straw - it's 3 cars while I want to standardize on a station length of 2 cars, and I just don't think I want to go to the trouble or cost of completing the DCC conversion. My track record is not good and I don't want to mess up this model. One of the cab cars has been taken apart once to see what kind of light board is in there, however the pieces have all been put back together correctly. The motor car has a DZ125 installed, one of 2 DCC installs I actually got right. The install was non-destructive, just a little kapton tape to keep the motor tabs off the pickup strips, and then 4 wires soldered on. The wires can be desoldered, the tape removed and the unit returned to DC operation. The decoder is not as easily salvaged, all the functions wires have been snipped and the other leads are fairly short. I would be willing to do the unconversion and sell sans-decoder however I don't think I have the skill level to completely remove all the solder residue. This model has no detail parts, however I did install Kato's scharfenberg coupler in place of the rapidos (the cab cars have non-functional scharfenbergs on the ends). I can include or restore the rapidos. This set comes in the smaller sized Kato book case.

 

787 Tsubame Relay (7-car set Kato 10-237)

I bought this because I like the design, I have an inclination to keep it though it will require a DCC upgrade. This one has seen the most runtime of the models I'm on the fence about.

 

Hankyu 6300 (8-car set Kato 10-050, 10-051)

Another set I bought because I liked the design, and again I have an inclination to keep it. Couplers have been upgraded to Kato knuckle couplers (I've had a hard time determining which is prototypical for this car, I have grey scharfenberg in a package the change it if needed). One car has the reflective tape and prism for a Kato lighting kit installed – I don't remember why.

 

Kiha 48 View Coaster `Kazekko` Winter Style (2-car set Microace A8660)

I bought it for the looks, and because I was interested in a Microace set. I think for my HCD layout I want to standardize the stock a lot, so this set loses out on a number of angles (wrong coast, different couplers, too much diesel, unknown DCC upgrade). It's a nice set that runs smooth (newer Microace drive system) and has lots of details, there's even a little stove in the back of one of the cars. The big windows make this an interesting subject for adding passengers.

 

Kiha 110/111/112 (various Kato)

I have the entire Kato family collected – the powered and dummy single car Kiha 110, and the powered and dummy paired sets of Kiha 111+112. Since I've decided that I'm going to design around 2-car operation the dummy 2-car set is not needed. The remaining 4 cars, arranged as 2 trains, are going to be a tough choice based on how difficult it will be to convert to DCC. I like that they have the same coupler design as the E127 and are generally the same high quality minus the DCC ready part. Another factor is putting too much diesel on what is supposed to be an electrified line. If I could find one I could go way off prototype by including a Kato 313-2300 (2-car, DCC ready), but that's not even the same company.

 

 

EF64-1000 JR Freight New Renewal Color (Kato 3024-1)

I bought this mostly for the color scheme. In person though I don't really like the size of it; long and thin. It really shows off the overhang on tight curves. I think it's also missing a headlight cover on one end. It's a regular Kato runner, quiet and smooth with flywheel drive. I tried converting it to DCC, but I think I killed the Digitrax board after a few attempts at better positioning the LEDs. The interior of the shell has a small hole cut for the little yellow component on the Digitrax board, and a driver figure has been added. At the moment I've reinstalled the DC board and everything works fine.

 

B-Train Shorty

 

I have a few sets, for obvious reasons I don't see myself running them. The first 3 sets are all completely converted for N scale operation – Kato powered car, Kato wheel sets, Kato pantographs, and Kato replacement couplers. For all the sets I think I have the original boxes, extra parts and stickers.

 

I have two 4-car Hankyu 6000 sets (Bandai 2041666 x 4) and a "Silver Line" EF65 with 5 24 series passenger cars (Bandai 2022972).

 

I also have 4-car sets for 113 Shonan Color (Bandai 2083968) and E231 Chuo/Sobu (Bandai 2010035). These are unpowered, though I may have a few extra Kato wheels.

 

In addition I have some "accessories". I have 2 foam case liners (fit Kato/Casco cases) which each hold 20 shorty cars each. I also have 2 TomyTec Tram controllers (green and cream) which work well for controlling them.

 

C11 (Kato 2002)

A little steam engine that was almost the perfect prototype for my small steam layout. Unfortunately it is not well designed for mini-curves, it needs 9" and up to run well.

 

9600 without deflector (Kato 2014)

This is "new" in the package with none of the detail parts or number plates added. It's louder then my other 9600s, doesn't start up at the same voltage, and seems to stall more often. In my uneducated opinion it can be restored to full working order with a tune up, but it's "as is". The model runs, but it's more Bachmann then Kato for the moment. I have two others (one with and one without deflectors). I think I'll be keeping both of them to remain on as my fleet for the steam layout.

 

I also have some old time 2-axel freight cars and some of the old time Kato passenger cars. I think I only need to keep some of them. If there is interest I could take a full inventory.

 

Tetsudou Collection Controller (TomyTec 224471)

This is the 103 series simulator controls with separate brake and throttle. I do not have the sound add-on, though I think I have all the original packaging. Together these provide realistic control with acceleration, coasting and braking. Power wise this is a 9V set – it can run some full size models (mostly older ones), but is really intended for TomyTec and B Shorty trains. It seems to use pulse power or some other method to achieve better low speed startup and control then a regular smooth DC power pack. If the separate brake unit is unplugged the throttle becomes a regular DC throttle with no acceleration/braking, kind of a bigger, more realistic version of the Tram controller.

 

I also have some American trains to sort through. A big one is I have the brand new GO Athearn set (5 car+locomotive with DCC and sound). The prototype has a special place for me, but just like with the 800 series I don't see myself changing the loading gauge of the whole layout just to accomidate one overly long item.

[keitaro]

with the 110 i'd be loving it too much to let go even the dummy car. perhaps your layout can have 3 car special event days. (well thats what I'd be telling myself to keep them).

[David]

with the 110 i'd be loving it too much to let go even the dummy car. perhaps your layout can have 3 car special event days. (well thats what I'd be telling myself to keep them).

 

 

Kato's model of the 110 series is really nice; crisp detail, lettering and lighting all around. Kato's E127 are in my opinion one step up - same level of detail, but drop in DCC (even if there are slots for up to 3 seperate decoders in one car!)

[keitaro]

I don't do dcc so that has no value to me but yeah have you made a layout plan for new potential layout?

[CaptOblivious]

The 110's aren't terribly hard to convert: My first conversion was a KIHA110, and it still runs just fine (which says a lot, considering that it's never burned a single decoder!).

 

I'm not sure what to say about shipping. I find that most items fit into a USPS flat-rate priority mail box; I wonder if the Canadian postal service has something similar? In which case, shipping costs can be held below about $10, which is nice.

[stevenh]

If you change your mind on shipping to Australia is on the cards then I'd love to snap up that 9600.

[David]

The 110's aren't terribly hard to convert: My first conversion was a KIHA110, and it still runs just fine (which says a lot, considering that it's never burned a single decoder!).

 

I'm not sure what to say about shipping. I find that most items fit into a USPS flat-rate priority mail box; I wonder if the Canadian postal service has something similar? In which case, shipping costs can be held below about $10, which is nice.

 

Then I might end up asking you for two DCC "sets" - convert the Kiha 111/112 as a pair using something like a DZ125 for the motor car and a 2 function decoder for the trailer, then convert the powered Kiha 110 with a 4 function decoder so one end can be turned off when the dummy is hooked up (dummy would only need one end wired up).

 

Ordering from Kleins I've found it costs about $20 to send a box across the boarder, whether it's a single locomotive or 10 - I'm not sure how much of that is their own packaging and handling costs. I'd be paying shipping both ways, so you would get free shipping on anything you wanted to take as part payment.

 

If you change your mind on shipping to Australia is on the cards then I'd love to snap up that 9600.

 

In theory I can ship anywhere, but I have a feeling the postage would be severe and I'm wary of sending things by untracked mail. I'll look into it.

[David]

If you change your mind on shipping to Australia is on the cards then I'd love to snap up that 9600.

 

Based on my own rough estimates of size and weight Canada Post says the cheapest rate for a tracked package to Australia is $75.99! (Xpresspost - International). And from the chart of standard delivery times is this gem: "Delivery standard for Xpresspost-International is not guaranteed to Australia, China, Italy or the Philippines". What did you guys do to piss off Canada Post?

 

However there are cheaper options using the same estimated size and weight:

Small Packet - International Air is $18.68

Small Packet - International Surface is $9.68

 

These are not tracked and advertise a delivery time of 4-6 weeks. If you're ok with paying for a box that's going to float around in the postal system for weeks I'll do it for a JNS member.

[clem24]

Canada Post is a big friggin rip off. The odd thing is that 100% of the time (unless you're dealing with XpressPost) it's usually cheaper to ship something to the USA than it is to ship within Canada.

 

I've never lost a package through small packet (either air or ground) but the dimensions are quite restrictive, and if you miss the weight category (every 500g I think), the price doubles. When you ship, you need to factor in the cardboard box and packing materials. Don't use crumpled up paper cause it adds weight. It really sucks when you estimate one amount, and then packaging tips it over the threshold and you get bumped into the next price category. I try not to ship with small packet ground because I find the buyer gets really antsy and impatient and in turn makes me antsy as well. The package I sent to Massimo took well over 2 months to get to Italy but he expected it.

 

Oh and one tip: use Ship-in-a-click! It's so convenient to be able to do everything at home and not have to line up at the post office, fill out forms, etc... You'll just need a fairly accurate scale. I just use a Kitchen scale that goes up to 11lbs.

[David]

Any alternatives to Canada Post then? Commercial carriers like Purolator and UPS don't offer anything less then $100 for overseas shipping.

[clem24]

Any alternatives to Canada Post then? Commercial carriers like Purolator and UPS don't offer anything less then $100 for overseas shipping.

 

Nope. You're stuck with CP. I meant they are a rip off compared to USPS. Canadians get shafted pretty bad.

[Mudkip Orange]

Yeah, IMHO the only legit reason to sell off trains is financial... either you're selling trains to finance the acquisition of more trains, or you're selling trains because cash is tight and you're going to cross-subsidize other, more necessary expenditures.

 

If your only issue is space, that's not really an issue then. NO ONE has enough space in Japan which is why all the trains come in bookshelf cases. Your small layouts will be small layouts. For everything else, there's Kato doubletrack plate on the floor.

 

Keep the thangs.