David Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Released in December and still widely available as Tomix 2222 for JNR version (no steam equipment) or Tomix 2223 for JRF. Supposedly redesigned from scratch with flywheel drive. My experience with other brand-new Tomix tooling has been very good (ED75-1000, very quite, best flywheel I've seen) though DCC looks like a challenge due to space. I'm on the fence on whether the Tomix JRF version or the Kato cold weather version is better to get. Kato is an easy conversion to knuckle couplers (Tomix TN isn't compatible with Kato/American knuckles) and while a requiring some cutting, has a proven DCC installation. On the other hand the Tomix paint scheme and design are much more true to life (the stream hook ups where rarely prototypical even in the JNR days so far as I've heard), runs on mini-curve track (R140) and generally looks better. Link to comment
CaptOblivious Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 I know, it's a tough call, isn't it? I've been thinking I want a second DE10, but I'm not sure which I want either… I'd have to see the internals of the Tomix one before I would be 100% willing to commit to that model, however. Link to comment
westfalen Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I've always thought the manufacturers should show photos on websites and in catalogs with and without the body shells for the above reason. When you buy an automobile you expect to be able to look under the hood as well check the paint finish. 1 Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Yes, I did do a search for you, but did not find any pictures of the chassis. Rich K. Link to comment
David Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 I've bitten the bullet and ordered the JRF version. I'll post pictures assuming it doesn't turn out to be a chinese puzzle to take apart. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 just be careful not to get both fingers stuck in there i was also looking at this. I figured some one has to bite the bullet and buy a realine model to post a review on it being slugish or not as seem no one knows on this forum. Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 The DE10 motor and bogies showed up as new spare parts at Hobby Search this week. The motor has a flywheel and universal joint ball on the shaft: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10136381 Rich K. Link to comment
David Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 I still haven't take my DE10 apart (lots of projects and it seems to be a lot of pieces so it's scary), but to keep this alive here are some initial impressions: Detail is very nice. The windows look like Tomix's high grade windows (or whatever they call the more detail replacement windows they sell). The cab interior is green with two angled lumps for the top of the consoles. An interesting optional part (maybe if I scan the instructions someone can translate) is a weight that goes into the cab (more weight, no more open cab). Another oddity is that the instructions seem to indicate that you need to drill 2 holes yourself if you want to add the antenna to the top. I'm not good for judging sound, as my hearing range is very wide. As best I can tell it does not seem to be super quiet like some Kato and Tomix mainline locomotives. I'd put it in the same range as an EMU like the Kato E531. Flywheel performance is similar to that too - the DE10 does not coast to a stop like the Tomix ED75-1000 or Kato EF210. However low speed performance is very good. The difference between the minimum throttle you can use once the train is in motion vs. the minimum needed to get it into motion is very small. Not as good as an Atlas, but the stall characteristics are still nice for a Japanese switcher. As advertised this works on the mini-curve track. In fact it handles even the super mini-curve track with ease, looking very smooth sliding through an R103 S-curve. The lights are LED and directional of course, and are roughly in line with any modern Kato or Tomix with regards to how soon they come on. There are red filters for the reverse/signalling lights but even with an SMD I have a hard time seeing how a hobbyist will be able to light them up - it would require a very thin snaky light tube to reach them. The Tomix magnetic couplers look like they might have a smaller joint then previous ones, so replacing with Microtrains might not be straight forward. 3 Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now