Chris bennion Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Hi I have some picture of my ef58 Link to comment
Martijn Meerts Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 I think you should be able to cut the copper pads (the ones the arrows point to), and then use half of the copper for power pick up, and the other half to connect the lights to the decoder. The motor will likely have some copper tabs that touch the frame halves, you need to either remove those, or shorten them a bit. Use some insulation tape to make sure the motor contacts don't touch the frame. Then solder some wires to the motor, and connect those to the decoder. I'm not really good at explaining things, so I'm not sure if that made any sense. Maybe someone else can explain it a little bit better 🙂 Link to comment
Chris bennion Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Ok. I think I understand. Also Would you know what decoder I would need, many thanks Link to comment
chadbag Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 23 minutes ago, Chris bennion said: Ok. I think I understand. Also Would you know what decoder I would need, many thanks Any small wired decoder should work. I use D&H (from Germany). The small n/z scale ones from Digitrax or other companies should also work. Link to comment
Martijn Meerts Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 Depends a bit. If you already have other decoders or a DCC station from a certain brand, and you like that brand, just get more from the same brand. Personally I use most ESU decoders (Lokpilot micro), but most decoders these days are good. 1 Link to comment
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