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Adding Kato/Microtrains compatible knuckle couplers to Tomix locos?


David

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I have almost all of my locomotives and rolling stock converted to using knuckle and shafenberg couplers. Apart from a Microace Kiha set that will need to wait, my only outstanding item is a Tomix ED75-1000 locomotive. I really like this guy and I'd say it's the best performing locomotive I have (excellent detail, super smooth movement and quiet operation)..

 

Most of my upgrades where done using Kato's knuckle couplers (T shank), which had no problem being installed on Kato, Kawai, Microace and even a Tomix Yo 8000 rolling stock. But like Kato locomotives the Tomix ED75 has it's own unique coupler attachment. While it comes with a replacement "knuckle" coupler in the box, it's a Tomix TN style knuckle coupler, which is too small to work with Kato/Microtrains style knuckle couplers.

 

Does anyone have an ideas or know any coupler replacements that will work? I don't want to have to make a transition car just for one locomotive.

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CaptOblivious

Good question! I've wondered the same, and the presence of these couplers on my Tomix locos has prevented me from converting any of my rolling stock to M-T's or (when they become available generally?) McHenry's.

 

I would love to see someone take this project on!

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Ok, some basic take apart.

 

The coupler is housed in the plow/hose attachment, which comes off as a seperate piece. Photo 2 is another angle (the assembly is upside down).

 

In the third photo you can see I've seperated it - the coupler itself (rapido shown but knuckle is the same design) is a one piece unit with the ability to swing up vertically - this is powered by a small magnet, so that when the loco drives over a Tomix magnet uncoupling track (different from Microtrains, the N/S is aligned the other way) the coupler swings up. Next to the coupler is a little black piece that can be seen in the first photo on top of the assembly. This is basically the centering spring. The last piece I've kept together, and is the grey portion of the locomotives front and the black snow plow, held together with 2 clips.

 

In the 4th photo I've changed the angle and focused on the non-coupler portion, seen from the rear (inside of the loco) and upside down. Notice the big flat area. The way I'm thinking is to ditch the existing coupler and centering piece, and instead look at a body mounted Microtrains coupler with coupler box - I think the coupler box could be attached to the flat area just like the body of a boxcar.

 

 

And now on to lighting - without experience I can't even start to think of how DCC and isolation will work (I haven't taken apart the rest of the split frame loco). If the first lighting picture notice the lights at the top (above the windows) and the bottom. The top ones light up white (with direction of travel), while the bottom ones are non-functional red.

 

In the next photo I've circled the LEDs that power the white lights. In the 3rd light photo I've circled the light tunnel that carries the white light to the head lights. In that same photo the red lights also have their own red transparent plastic - in the last (poor) photo I've shined a light through them, showing that they do work if there was an LED.

 

Prototypically I think the red lights are used for the rear when not pulling something (rare, which I assume is why they are non-functional) but also for signalling - the left or right light is lit up independently to signal various shunting operations. Could a 6 function decoder be wired into such a small loco?!

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I wrote this for Mark Veneman's site about 5 or 6 years ago, looks like it's still perfectly valid:

 

http://www.xs4all.nl/~raicho/mcorner/mtconver/elconver.htm

 

LOL OK I am too stupid - how do guys attach pictures just like the post above...  ???  :laugh:

 

Use Microtrains 2001 coupler, .060" x .188" strip styrene, and a .08mm drill bit. You'll also need a very strong wire cutter to snip off the end of the protruding screw. These pics should be self-explanatory.

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