Unitrack question(s)

[mgary]

Unitrack newbie here, I am building my son a n scale layout with uintrack and had a couple questions...1) where do I place the insulated unijoiners? I have a large oval with 2 turnouts 2) How many power leads should I use on 4x6 layout? 3) What would be the recomended power pack?  Thanks for the help, and let me know if I need to be more specific.

[CaptOblivious]

If it's just an oval, and you aren't using the turnouts to create a reversing loop, then you don't need insulated Unijoiners at all. The turnouts are power-routing, which means that they conduct current from the converging route (is that what it is called?) to whichever diverging route is selected by the points. That is, if you have the turnouts set up to create a passing siding, power will be routed into which ever of the sidings is selected by the turnouts.

 

So, no need for insulated joiners. And you'll only need one power drop to the layout for a layout that small. Be sure that it is placed somewhere outside of the sidings, that is, along a stretch of single track.

 

Finally, Kato's entry level power pack is a very good one, not very expensive, and has the proper socket for the Unitrack power feeders. Just about any throttle that puts out 12–14VDC to the rails would be just fine (I use a Tomix; lots of people here like MRC and GaugeMaster throttles), but you will have to find your own way to wire the Unitrack power feeder to the throttle.

[mgary]

Thank you for the well written answers.  Would it be ok to use the MRC tech 4 with 16 va or is that too much power?

[CaptOblivious]

VA (volt-amperes) is a measure of power; it tells you how much current it can supply for a given voltage. So, really, you cannot have too many volt-amperes, because you can never have too much capacity.

 

The voltage is what determines the speed of the train, and is set by the throttle position: 0V = closed throttle = stand still, 12V = full throttle = high ballin'! Reading the Tech 4 manual online, I worry that the Tech 4 throttles put out a very high voltage to the rails. The Tech 4 200 puts out 15.5VDC at full throttle, and the models 220 and 260 put out 23VDC!!. Most Japanese models are designed for a sustained maximum of 12VDC 23VDC will kill your trains. 15.5VDC won't kill your trains, but it will shorten the useful life of the electric components.

 

 

So, the Tech 4 models 220 and 260 are not appropriate. The Tech 4 model 200 is appropriate, provided you never take it to full throttle; that you keep it no more than about half. You could connect a voltmeter between the throttle and the track so you know precisely what your throttle is putting out, and mark on the throttle the 12V point, so you know not to go beyond it.

 

(Another more complex alternative would be to wire up a diode clipper circuit that would prevent the voltage coming out of the throttle from increasing above +12V or below -12V, but this is a topic for another thread.)

[CaptOblivious]

Any updates for us? I know you have a photo of your track plan.

[mgary]

Still waiting on my turnout controls, power leads, extension cords and a power pack, most is in the mail on its way..Still need a locomotive too, on a tight budget...I attached a pic of the temporary set up...Once we get it up and running we will be adding to it and moving to a 4x8 table....

[scott]

The turnouts are power-routing,

 

Just to clarify--the #6s are power-routing, but the #4s can be set to be power-routing or not.

 

So, the Tech 4 models 220 and 260 are not appropriate.

 

Uh-oh--all of our controllers--well, not the one for the christmas tree  -- are Tech 4 220s. But we haven't used them enough to see long-term damage yet. Still, we're usually careful not to use full power anyway.

 

I attached a pic of the temporary set up...Once we get it up and running we will be adding to it and moving to a 4x8 table....

 

Looks like fun--I'm looking forward to seeing the permanent version take shape.

[KenS]

I'll be interested in following your progress too.  Is this a Japanese-themed layout, or something else? I'm interested either way, but more interested if it's Japanese in scenery and trains.

 

Once you get started on the permanent layout, you should start a thread on the Personal Projects forum.

[boiselfish]

Thought Id throw my question in this pre-prepared thread instead of starting another...

 

Later this year after my partners trip to Japan (where he will be unwillingly taking a second case for my purchases) I will be starting my own layout. Im looking at having both commuter and shinkansen lines. Ground level and Viaduct respectively, hopefully within a 'City' themed layout.

 

Im not to familiar with computer layout programs or that sort of thing, im more of a stick it together and see if it works kind of person and go from there.

 

Should I be looking at getting a few of the 'variation' packs from Kato and then expanding from there to separate pieces that I require or should I just simply look at separate pieces and purchase packs of 2 and 4 pieces of track? Im sure the viaduct variation pack is a given but is purchasing 2 packs to have more track better than separate pieces?

 

I need some of your collective wisdom...

[KenS]

The Variation sets can be a great way to get track you need at a better price. It's also a good way to ensure you have all the necessary pieces, which can be confusing when you're just getting started with Unitrack.

 

For example, the V1 passing siding set costs $59.99 from MB Klein.  The same parts bought separately from them come to $71.02, but you get a couple of extra curves and short straights you could use elsewhere, so it's really only about a 10% difference.

 

And in the case of the V1, you get the R718 curve needed to bring the siding track back to parallel with the main track and the 64mm straight (easily confused with the 62mm straight when you're not used to Unitrack; I speak from experience) needed to offset the siding the width of a standard Kato island platform.

 

It can also be a way to get newer items that aren't readily available. I started with a couple of the sets (V11 and V12) to get the concrete-tie track, which wasn't readily available in separate packs (it can still be hard to find the concrete-tie separate track packs in local hobby stores). The new Unitram track is presently only available in the Unitram set.

 

If you're just buying for cost, and don't need all the elements, add up the cost of the parts you need as separates and compare to the set. You may not be saving money if you aren't using the whole set.

[Martijn Meerts]

If you like experimenting, you can't go wrong with a few track packs. The only reason to not buy track packs is when you know exactly which tracks you want/need for your layout.

[scott]

One needs a *reason* to buy more Unitrack?!?  ;-)

[mgary]

I'll be interested in following your progress too.  Is this a Japanese-themed layout, or something else? I'm interested either way, but more interested if it's Japanese in scenery and trains.

 

Once you get started on the permanent layout, you should start a thread on the Personal Projects forum.

 

  I am interested in doing both a Japanese layout as well as american....The first one will be American...I have alot to learn about Japanese scenery etc...I am extremely fascinated with Japanese layouts...