alpineaustralia Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Does anyone have the instruction manual for a Kato E1? If so, I would be most grateful if you could please scan and attach ro email to me. I need a replacement part and I am having trouble identifying the part number Link to comment
jappomania Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Does anyone have the instruction manual for a Kato E1? If so, I would be most grateful if you could please scan and attach ro email to me. I need a replacement part and I am having trouble identifying the part number Link to comment
jappomania Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 ops... sorry, I've press "return" before reply, sorry again... Hi! do you still searching this manual? let me know... if somebody have bought on ebay and need a copy of instruction paper ask me, maybe I have the original (shinkansen sure, the rest probably) ciao Massimo Link to comment
alpineaustralia Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 yes please massimo Link to comment
jappomania Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 yes please massimo Hi! download at http://rapidshare.com/files/297618825/E1-color.zip 300 dpi color bitmap, let me know if you prefer 600dpi greyscale, I re-up. BTW if you search the lower chassis (I'm 99% sure you have the spindle that retain the fucking coupling system, broken ;-) maybe next month I have good news....... ciao Massimo Link to comment
cteno4 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 did you have one of the two tiny pins on the lower chassis break off? the ones that hold the coupling diaphragms from swinging too far side to side? i have one of those snapped off on a center car. have been meaning to see if i could drill out a hole in the lower chassis and put a metal pin in place of the snapped off plastic pin. do you think that kato would actually have any of the lower chassises in stock anywhere? that diaphragm coupling system on the tall e1 was a big mistake. its such a touchy mechanism, but with the added height it just puts sideways rocking on curves that makes it derail a lot. never was happy with its running... cheers jeff yes please massimo Hi! download at http://rapidshare.com/files/297618825/E1-color.zip 300 dpi color bitmap, let me know if you prefer 600dpi greyscale, I re-up. BTW if you search the lower chassis (I'm 99% sure you have the spindle that retain the fucking coupling system, broken ;-) maybe next month I have good news....... ciao Massimo Link to comment
jappomania Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Hi Jeff, this is the typical problem for E1, I've already tryed your solution but don't work so good, so I've won the past month on Yahoo a stock of lower chassis, in addiction I won in the past years a fake couple of 10-340+10-341 on ebay but not with the correct cars and without engine (maybe the seller sold another one 10-341 before but with incorrect cars inside) and obviously with some cars coupling already broken. If someboby need, I can use the rest for spare parts (sorry, only intermediate cars, head cars both broken, some upper chassis already used for kitbashing one E4, project started before Tomix and Kato announce and production) ciao Massimo did you have one of the two tiny pins on the lower chassis break off? the ones that hold the coupling diaphragms from swinging too far side to side? i have one of those snapped off on a center car. have been meaning to see if i could drill out a hole in the lower chassis and put a metal pin in place of the snapped off plastic pin. do you think that kato would actually have any of the lower chassises in stock anywhere? that diaphragm coupling system on the tall e1 was a big mistake. its such a touchy mechanism, but with the added height it just puts sideways rocking on curves that makes it derail a lot. never was happy with its running... cheers jeff yes please massimo Hi! download at http://rapidshare.com/files/297618825/E1-color.zip 300 dpi color bitmap, let me know if you prefer 600dpi greyscale, I re-up. BTW if you search the lower chassis (I'm 99% sure you have the spindle that retain the fucking coupling system, broken ;-) maybe next month I have good news....... ciao Massimo Link to comment
cteno4 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Massimo, when i first opened the sucker up i realized this must be a pretty common problem as its a horrible design that rests on one tiny pin like 0.5mm in diameter! its just a really dumb system! i too got mine on ebay. i got them from a guy who ran a toy shop in chicago and somehow convinced kato to ship over a pile of trains and track for the chicago gift show (huge pre-xmas event, mainly for wholesale). they set up a few big loops of viaduct track and had a bunch of shinkansens running. he said they were able to sell a container load of stuff at the show wholesale. kato let them keep all the stuff used at the show demo and they were slowly getting rid of it. i did end up with a 12 car set with 2 motor cars cheap (one did need some cleaning)! I would be interested in purchasing an intermediate chassis from you if you have one to spare. i think you are right the chances of working are slim. i was going to use a very thin pin so that the head could also be epoxied on the bottom side to help fix it in place better. a piece of brass or steel rod would not hold glued into just the hole i think. the project is on the back burner for me, but eventually i would like to get it fixed. cheers, jeff Hi Jeff, this is the typical problem for E1, I've already tryed your solution but don't work so good, so I've won the past month on Yahoo a stock of lower chassis, in addiction I won in the past years a fake couple of 10-340+10-341 on ebay but not with the correct cars and without engine (maybe the seller sold another one 10-341 before but with incorrect cars inside) and obviously with some cars coupling already broken. If someboby need, I can use the rest for spare parts (sorry, only intermediate cars, head cars both broken, some upper chassis already used for kitbashing one E4, project started before Tomix and Kato announce and production) ciao Massimo Link to comment
jappomania Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Hi Jeff! of course I would help you, but I advise you, the shipping cost from Italy is very high compared with the rest of the word you can see (sorry only in italian USA are in "zona 2") http://www.poste.it/postali/prioritaria/tariffe_estero.shtml is a SAL method, EMS or similar is very expensive (you pay 32 euro until 30KG an you don't have more chance) I ask for every car/chassis 15 euro (sorry, I payd over 180USD + 20% add tax for 8 car fake set and 1400JPY for every spare chassis) let me know... ciao Massimo Massimo, when i first opened the sucker up i realized this must be a pretty common problem as its a horrible design that rests on one tiny pin like 0.5mm in diameter! its just a really dumb system! i too got mine on ebay. i got them from a guy who ran a toy shop in chicago and somehow convinced kato to ship over a pile of trains and track for the chicago gift show (huge pre-xmas event, mainly for wholesale). they set up a few big loops of viaduct track and had a bunch of shinkansens running. he said they were able to sell a container load of stuff at the show wholesale. kato let them keep all the stuff used at the show demo and they were slowly getting rid of it. i did end up with a 12 car set with 2 motor cars cheap (one did need some cleaning)! I would be interested in purchasing an intermediate chassis from you if you have one to spare. i think you are right the chances of working are slim. i was going to use a very thin pin so that the head could also be epoxied on the bottom side to help fix it in place better. a piece of brass or steel rod would not hold glued into just the hole i think. the project is on the back burner for me, but eventually i would like to get it fixed. cheers, jeff Hi Jeff, this is the typical problem for E1, I've already tryed your solution but don't work so good, so I've won the past month on Yahoo a stock of lower chassis, in addiction I won in the past years a fake couple of 10-340+10-341 on ebay but not with the correct cars and without engine (maybe the seller sold another one 10-341 before but with incorrect cars inside) and obviously with some cars coupling already broken. If someboby need, I can use the rest for spare parts (sorry, only intermediate cars, head cars both broken, some upper chassis already used for kitbashing one E4, project started before Tomix and Kato announce and production) ciao Massimo Link to comment
alpineaustralia Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 I had the same problem on a 500 series. I fixed it by heating up a thin pin and pushing it into the lower plastic peice when hot so that it cooled solidly in place in the plastic pins. works really well. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Massimo, sorry i lost track of the thread there for a while. the priority mail does not look too bad, like 8 euro. i may take you up on the offer here. ill try in the next few weeks to give my fix a try to see if it will work first. alpine i had thought of the hot pin, but was a tad worried the alignment might get off in the proces. figured doing a micro drill hole then a good blob of epoxy on the pin head on the underside would secure it well. i have some tiny straight pins that are pretty think and i think are the same diameter as the plastic pin. what a dumb design, so easy to break! cheers jeff Link to comment
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