Desktop Steam Roundy Round

[David]

This is the start of my project to build a permanent layout with grass and scenery and all nice things that fits in the space I have.

 

For storage the layout has an absolute limit of 800mm x 500mm. For practical purposes a size of 30" x 18" is best. This is small.

 

This is my first layout that wasn't just track put down on the table/floor, so I'm not going to try to replicate any specific line. Instead it's a freelance layout representing some backwoods area of Japan around the mid 1950s. It will be freight centric with old 9600 locomotives pulling short 2 axel wagons (either 3 or 4 cars). The C11 would have actually made a slightly better choice (much more prototypical to have very short freight trains, and the Wafu 29500 was practically made with C11/C12 pulled freight trains in mind) but Kato's C11 doesn't not run smoothly on R177 (stated minimum is R249, it will run on R218, and on R177 it acts oddly, because the pilot is not really rolling, its just short of coming off the track).

 

Track is Tomix Finetrack using R177 (R140 and R103 can't be used). Since this is my first layout I'm being cautious about grades – any over/under arrangement is probably too big a step. I worked out a list of what I want in a layout to help in the design, and then tried out some of my ideas with FineTrack as I acquired it. I will likely need one more shipment of Finetrack in order to get Y switches and signals.

 

 

Wants:

 

A loop for continuous running.

 

A tunnel that the train should be able to fit entirely inside.

 

At least 1 siding with a freight depot.

 

If possible, a total of 3 sidings or other holding areas to allow 2 trains to execute operations.

 

An S curve that shows off the trains to the viewer.

 

A rerailer (crossing) track somewhere in the continuous loop. It's there to keep things on track, so it could be hidden in the tunnel or obscured.

 

If possible, a second rerailer on a siding to help with putting trains on the layout.

 

Sidings should at a minimum hold a 120mm locomotive, and 3 55mm cars (285mm)

 

 

In general the rear and left side of the layout will usually be blocked off (by a wall), and the right side may be partially blocked. As a result I want to construct things with a viewer looking from the front and front right in mind, and with the main train traveling counter-clockwise.

 

From my experimentation I've come up with 2 variations on a design. The first is a basic loop with a siding. The tunnel would be on the left side encompassing the 180 degree curve. I'm also thinking of a grade so the rear is higher then the front, with a short retaining wall (3/4"). This would also avoid the buffer from being directly beside the rest of the track. The alternative design adds another siding and changes the first siding to use a Y switch to split it in 2. This starts to fell really crowd. It's also possible to have the second siding go to the outside of the layout (switch which 15 degree turn is being replaced with the 15 degree switch). This would also reverse the direction of the siding which could add some interest.

 

I also found in experimentation that I'd like to avoid an R177 curve interrupted by a S18.5 or S33 piece (for when the 2 sides of the loop are of unequal size). This arrangement caused trains to have whiplash as they transitioned through this.

 

I'm also looking at putting vintage signals (semaphores) in limited use (they do cost a fair bit). At a minimum having a stop/go signal (red flag with red/green filter for light beside it) for the train approaching the turnout to the freight siding.

[bill937ca]

This plan might interest you.  Its' 900 x 600mm with a C243 circle and a C280 partial circle and only slightly larger than your space.

 

 

http://hatena730.blog37.fc2.com/blog-entry-7.html

 

I think a couple more sidings could be added in the center of the circle. That plan suggests a second half could be built at a later time.

[KenS]

Sounds like a great idea, and I like the concept of a small elevation difference to offset the two parts.

 

For the version with a siding on the left, you could either hide the track at the back (behind trees, or by starting the tunnel early), or put the end of the siding in a building (engine house, or some kind of freight-originating structure) to keep the two tracks from appearing close together.

[bill937ca]

Tsugawa has some small kits that may be useful for a layout like this.

 

Water tower with pump booth

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10067297

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10067297a/20/1

 

Express Office and Freight Sorting Office

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10082628

 

Reservations have closed at HS has for Tsugawa semaphores due in March.

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10075765

[David]

Among their modern set of signals Tomix does have 2 fully functional semaphore signals, though they are more costly then the signals that are just a cluster of LEDs

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10053398

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10053397

 

For me it would add a lot of interest to the layout to have a working signal for the main turn off. I wonder if I could mix working and static signals (I can't nearly afford to fill this layout with all working signals, at best I could have 2 - maybe just have the working signals for the main line approaches).

 

Adding an engine house to the left/bottom turn out had occured to me, the only question was if it would take away too much space from the hill needed for the tunnel. Tomix has one I like:

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10069594

 

Though for space I might need to chop off the side extension.

[Bernard]

This plan might interest you.  Its' 900 x 600mm with a C243 circle and a C280 partial circle and only slightly larger than your space.

 

 

http://hatena730.blog37.fc2.com/blog-entry-7.html

 

I think a couple more sidings could be added in the center of the circle. That plan suggests a second half could be built at a later time.

 

What I also like about this layout design is that it allows for future expansion.

[KenS]

I wonder if I could mix working and static signals (I can't nearly afford to fill this layout with all working signals, at best I could have 2 - maybe just have the working signals for the main line approaches).

 

That sounds workable.  If the branch is assumed to be low-speed, the signal on it could be a dwarf (low, using lights instead of an arm), which wouldn't be as obviously non-functional.  Or you could go with a full-size non-functional one set at "stop", and just pretend it changes briefly when you need to pass it.

 

I really like those working signals.  I'm not really a big fan of semaphore signals in general (I like modern railroads, and there aren't too many of those still using semaphores, although I know there are a few), But those like really nice.

[David]

I got my next set of parts from Japan. I haven't started assembling anything yet (tommorow is a holiday, though I'll probably start with my very first set of B Train Shorties) but I now have tunnel portals, a train shed, the Y switch and a working signal. I also got Peco buffers because they cost something like $1.50 for the pack - I wasn't really impressed with them so I'll probably stick with the Tomix buffers I already have.

 

With the Y switch in place I can see here is no way I can put the TomyTec platform between the two track (I already suspected that), so one track will be a loading track while the other is for holding.

 

I'm also glad I only ordered one signal instead of 2. Either Tomix has changed the way they are made, or the photos from the front just do a really good job of hiding it, but there is a big green circuit boarding running the full length of the signal on the back side. The one thing I don't like in model trains is really obvious mechanisms (like the bare motors sticking out the back of most N steam locomotives).

 

Tommorow I should be able to post some photos of the setup with the new components placed. This weekend or next I'll look at starting the base which will probably be 1/2" gator board supporting 1/2" of regular foam (so I can cut little troughs to run the cables).

[keiman]

David, if you look at your engine shed kit, assuming you bought the one you posted about, you don't need to build the lean to .

It can be stuck,anywhere down the side of the shed if you want to. Looks quite good without the lean to.

[David]

Put together some stuff, now I need to start looking at foam/board base and risers so that the freight depot can be raised up, with the shed in a sort of little valley between the hill/mountain covering the left side (tunnel) and the raised area of the depot. You can probably notice the exposed circuit board of the signal - I think I'll end up dropping it for now as it's not worth the trouble of needing it's own power source to avoid burning out the LED, and I don't think I can justify putting a few more around when it doesn't look nearly as good as I had hoped. Also ran some B Shorty trains around the layout - the more weight in them the better for getting through the switches. The Y switch seems to pose a big challenge.

[David]

I didn't have much of a good chance to get materials in the last little while. I still need some additional foam and plaster cloth. I now have the base, which is currently a 32x24 sheet of gatorboard which I'll cut down.

 

I made an inspection to determine which sides to cut off (based on where there are dents from shipping) and made a test to determine if my method of cutting (using a very sharp exacto knife) would work. Results from the cut test where very positive, I got a very clean edge with no crumbling or other mess. Based on the results I'm considering using the excess (the big 32x5 piece I'll have left over) as the material with which to build the basic structure of the tunnel and mountain - it's strong, light and I should be able to use the same glue to bond it to the rest of the layout.

 

I also got Woodland Scenics risers - from the dimensions of my layout I ended up with 4% grades that will create a 1" rise between the front of the layout and the freight station area. The 9600 locomotive seemed to have no trouble with the grade (it has a lot of traction so that was expected). The Kato shorty power unit did have trouble with the grade, so unless some weight fixes it that's one train that won't be making a visit to this layout (my next project will likely be a level city layout using R103 and R140 curves). I have 2 sheets of 1/2" thick foam, but I'll need some 1" thick foam the main base that will go on the gatorboard.

 

I've also added a second turn out (ordering a turn off next week) which replaces the curve that leads into the garage turn out at the front (so the two turnouts are facing each other). This turnout will be a siding which I may add a water tower and other steam maintence structures to, though long term it serves as a possible route to the outside world.

[Nick_Burman]

David, neat little outfit you have. I liked the 9600 . How scale is the Tomix signal? The colour light ones are absolutely out...

 

Cheers NB

[David]

Apart from the green circuit board attached to the back of the pole it seems to be scale, though you might want to bury the very oversized "ballasted" base which hides a standard Tomix point motor. The LED is embedded right in the circuit board (it doesn't seem to have a seperate casing) which helps make it really thin. The LED and the filters seem to actually work like the prototype.

 

I bought the only type in stock at HS, but Tomix actually makes 4 variations of the same signal, with poles of a different height to correspond to the prototype.

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10096027

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10096028

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10053397

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10096029

[David]

On the weekend I did a little more work, measuring and cutting down the gatorboard and doing some further size tests.

 

Cutting the gatorboard with a sharp hobby knife had mixed results. On full scale cuts I still got clean results so far as no bits of foam or wood chips coming off, it's a very clean, solid material to work with. However I did run into issues with the length of the blade, which was not much longer then the depth of the board being cut (1/2"). This resulted in the backside of the cut having a torn appearance because the blade was frequently piercing through the wood end cap, rather then slicing it from the side. I also had issues with keeping the knife making a purely vertical cut - the result was an edge that was not flat and rectangular.

 

I did have some more positive results when trying to clean it up a bit with sandpaper. I took the board outside to the patio and used a heavier grit piece attached to one of those little metal blocks with a handle. Like the cutting it resulted in a very smooth action without chipping of the foam. I was able to easily sand away the torn bits on the backside, and level out the board somewhat. It did also make the foam middle a bit brown by mixing in some wood, but the whole thing will be covered with some kind of facade or paint. For future gatorboard bases I'll be looking for a longer sharp knife, and be cutting 1/4" away from my actual line, then sanding it down the rest of the way.

 

In testing the height I've found I may have an issue with the raised part of the layout. I want to have the back (freight yard) raised 1" from the front of the layout. This requires a 4% grade using 2 woodland scenics 4%/24" risers, one for each side. However in mocking this up I've found that there is no way the track would lay remotely flat without a nail in every section. It lays better on a 1/2" rise (it wouldn't cost much to switch to the 2% risers since I only need half a package), but a 6' retaining wall looks a little silly, where as a 12' wall at least seems like it has some business being at a seperate height instead of just being plowed down.

[David]

It's been a while since this project was updated.

 

Most of the work is in the project party http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,3257.0.html

 

I've been slowly adding details. There is still work to be done, I need to decide how much plant coverage will go on the hill, as well as adding bushes around the layout. There are 2 more trees to be used up as well.

[Bernard]

Really nice work David!

[grumbeast]

I agree Bernard!

 

This is a lovely little layout.  Can't wait to see it progress

 

Graham