Decals on commuter trains - dumb question, perhaps

[NGT6 1315]

Hello,

 

as I do not understand Japanese to such a degree that I could make sense of instruction sheets in anything but the most basic items: Looking at most any Kato commuter train set - how am I supposed to apply the decals for the destination boards? Should I just apply them to the outside of the corresponding transparent parts (which could look awkward, especially on the windshield), or do I need to open the cars in question and apply them to the inside in some way?

 

Thanks in advance!

[David]

In all the sets I have the destination board has been applied on the inside (directly over the plastic prism piece that is directing the light from the LED. On some models, those where the front of the cab is removed seperately from the shell, the instructions are a bit more explicit IIRC. It's actually easy on the inside, as you don't need to get it aligned 100% perfect, since the edges of the sticker are hidden once the shell is put back on.

[NGT6 1315]

In all the sets I have the destination board has been applied on the inside (directly over the plastic prism piece that is directing the light from the LED.

 

That's what I thought I would need to do, but I rather wanted to ask lest I damage anything.

 

What tools do you use to remove the body shells from the chassis? I would think I rather should go about it more carefully than on a H0 scale model.

[CaptOblivious]

I use my fingernails to pry the edges of the shell away from the frame. If you prefer, a nylon spudger.

[David]

That's what I thought I would need to do, but I rather wanted to ask lest I damage anything.

 

What tools do you use to remove the body shells from the chassis? I would think I rather should go about it more carefully than on a H0 scale model.

 

The first step would be to check the instruction sheet to see if there are any specific instructions for removing the shell (like special pieces that must be removed first). Generally it involves carefully prying the shell away from the base at a point close to an open end (don't start on the cab side for cab cars unless the instructions require that) and then depending on the model the bottom portion should easily come out (you may need to repeat on the other side to fully release the base).

 

See pictures in my recent thread where I had trouble with the cab cars for the E231, as I both removed the shell and showed the destination sticker being applied - though that model is a bit special in that the "inner" portion of the destination board is attached to the top of the shell, while on most models it is attached to the base

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,2447.0.html

 

What model is it anyway?

[David]

Just as a suggestion you might want to try taking the shell off a basic mid-car from the same set (i.e. not the motor car, and not a car with a pantograph or other breakable detail part). I find that the cab cars can be the most difficult to take apart, while trailer mid cars are the easiest - it should give you an idea what should happen and how much force should be required, so you don't break the cab car forcing it apart.

[NGT6 1315]

What model is it anyway?

 

 

Thank you for your advice, first of all . I was thinking about either an E231 or E233 from Kato in this context.

[KenS]

One thing to watch out for: on a cab car, if the top lifts partway up, then stops, the window glass on the sides may be getting stuck on the plastic structure around the "cab" area. Slipping a spudger or plastic tweezer tip inside the car, and pushing the widow glass to the side (i.e., away from the center of the car) can free it up.

 

I spent two weeks with a half-disassembled E231 once, trying to figure out why I could open one cab but not the other to install the lights.