ATShinkansen Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 I’m terribly sorry for taking so long to post my results. I did successfully convert both my EF81 and EF66 back shortly after the last post. I can’t seem to get the EF81 shell off to take pictures (probably a good thing), but I did want to discuss the EF66. I was initially concerned because unlike the other two engines, most of the “under” roof is exposed and visible. Fortunately, there turns out to be plenty of space underneath for the decoder. I only had to cut two small holes for LED clearance where the grey over roof will conceal them. Note also the two plastic parts that I had to remove to get the decoder to fit. The Kapton tape over the light pipes is to counter the blue tint from the LEDs. 2 1 Link to comment
chadbag Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 Nice. Good job. I've done a similar install with the TCS equivalent to the Digitrax on an EF81, EF66, and EF210. Link to comment
Blackcaim Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Hi all, I’ve just purchased a kato EF210-100 (3034-4) and I’ve installed a digitrax DN163K0a decoder. I’m having problems with getting the train to run. When I put a little pressure with my finger on the centre chip, the train functions fine. If I let go, the train doesn’t work. I’ve attached two photos, one with me applying pressure and the other without. I look forward to some suggestions. Thank you. Link to comment
roadstar_na6 Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Can‘t you just make the body press down the chip? Link to comment
Blackcaim Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 40 minutes ago, roadstar_na6 said: Can‘t you just make the body press down the chip? We tried taping the chip with tape, but that didn’t seem to help the connection. Link to comment
roadstar_na6 Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 I‘d still try to put something "hard" in the shell and have it press down on the chip. Taping something down that wants to jump up all the doesn‘t really work long-term Link to comment
Madsing Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 From your description, we cannot rule out that the problem is not the decoder but the contact between the wheels and the rails, or the trucks and the power strips. If you push down the body of the locomotive (not the DCC decoder), does it work? If not, It's the contact between the DCC decoder and the power strips. Try removing the decoder and cleaning contacts on both sides, bottom of the DCC decoder and top of the power strips. Link to comment
chadbag Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) If I remember correctly the factory light board used thin LEDs? (I've already replaced the light board in my KATO EF210 with a TCS) Looking at the pics, you have the Bulb LEDs on the decoder, which I am guessing, due to their height, or the LED legs not laying flat, are lifting the decoder off the power strips on the locomotive. Edited March 28, 2020 by chadbag Link to comment
Blackcaim Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Hi all, so in the end we ended up taping some thin double sided tape to the train body after cleaning the contacts and the EF210 works. We also twisted the LEDs down in an S shape to get it to fit into the the body. It seems to be the contact chip in the centre that was not getting the connection. Thanks everyone who replied and gave input. 3 Link to comment
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