Digitrax TL1 and Kato 11-209 (11-210) Light Kits

[jdnewemail]

I am installing these in the non motorized and non end cars of my series 103 tain (Kato 10-540).

 

I shortened the two metal pins that side into the frame and attached the Red wire to the right side (engineers side) and Black wire to the left (fireman's side). I then removed the metal pins from the LED board.

 

Can someone help me with these 2 questions

 

1: which side do I solder the blue and white leads to the LED board. white to the right side (engineers side) or left (fireman's side)

 

2: using the LED board do I still need the 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor or would it still dim the LED

 

Thanks for the answers

[CaptOblivious]

Since the 11-209 has all the current limiting and rectifying circuitry you need, you should not need a resistor, and it should not matter which way you attach the wires; the blue can go to either lead. Easy-peasy!

 

But why not use the Kato FR11 decoder?

[jdnewemail]

Hello

 

I came across another question has anyone ever put DCC into a Kato Series 103 Motorcar (chassis #4003). If you can tell me how you opened it up it would help a lot. I have the shell off and I see the tan plastic seat section with the 4 tabs as well as the off white piece that pops off. But that is as far as I can get.

 

Thanks

[jdnewemail]

Thanks Capt, I contacted Plaza Japan where I bought the train and they told me it was not compatible with the FR11.

[inobu]

There is a conflict some where.

 

It looks like you can have either the bulb or led as optional lights based on Kato web site.

 

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.katomodels.com/product/nmi/103kei_teiunntenndai.shtml&ei=OV95S-PnMpCcswO0tYnMCA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAsQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://www.katomodels.com/product/nmi/103kei_teiunntenndai.shtml%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

 

11-204 11-206 verses 11-209 and 210.

 

The FR11 like Capt suggested is for the LED and the TL1 may be for the bulb.

 

Based on your question #2 you are looking at LED's which means the FR11 may be what you need like Capt suggested.

 

Be careful, I would double check seems to be a conflict.

 

Inobu

 

 

[CaptOblivious]

That is odd, that Plaza Japan would tell you that. I've never used the FR11, but I had thought that it fits into the lighting unit itself, and so the design of the train didn't matter so long as it could take the LED lighting kits—and yours does.

 

 

So, now, looks like we need the opinion of someone who has used an FR11 in the past. Anyone here with experience with that decoder?

 

Anyway, it's a small matter. If you already have the TL1, go ahead an install it. You should be able to change it out for an FR11 later if you change your mind.

[inobu]

Recently I have been reading up on DCC and I think it could be a problem in that the current draw for each (bulb/LED) is different. Some LED's have polarity leads.

 

Inobu

 

I'm finally breaking down and going DCC.

[CaptOblivious]

Recently I have been reading up on DCC and I think it could be a problem in that the current draw for each (bulb/LED) is different. Some LED's have polarity leads.

 

Inobu

 

I'm finally breaking down and going DCC.

 

Why would different currents be a problem? It certainly won't be a problem in this case, because there is only one LED. And while it is true that all LEDs are polarized—that is, they only work when current is flowing in one particular direction (from anode to cathode (under the conventional current model)), again in this case, the LED is already wired up to a circuit that handles the details—namely, the little circuit inside the lighting kit. If jdnewemail wires the decoder directly to the contacts on the lightboard, polarity and voltage are non-issues—otherwise the lights wouldn't work on a plain DC layout, either! I.e., the LED wouldn't light up in one direction, and would burn out in a minute or so. So, in this one rare happy case…there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's wire up a decoder.

[inobu]

Some bulbs draw more current during heat up which causes problems for some circuits and some LED's require a drop in voltage to operate correctly. When you switch setups it can induce problems in either case.

 

Bottom line its not as simple as you put it, if you use the wrong component for a particular setup.

 

Tech bulletin from Kato www.katousa.com/cgi-bin/dl/dl.pl?dl.mif,29-353-FR11-English.pdf

 

Text in blue and red points (in center of page) points out incompatibility. 11-204 and 11-206 are bulbs.

 

Can you answer this question. Does the TL1 and FR11 have the same output?

 

Inobu

[jdnewemail]

Here is the specs for the TL1

TL1 Single DCC Function Decoder with Integrated Transponder

 

Your TL1 can be used as:

1. Function only DCC decoder with transponding

 

2. Digitrax Transponder

 

3. Function only DCC decoder without transponding.

 

Single 125mA (250mA peak) function output for lights or other functions

 

Function can be turned on/off using F0, F1, F2, F3, or F4

 

Supports both 2 digit and 4 digit addressing

 

Programmable from DCC compatible equipment

 

Configurable Strobe feature lets you simulate flashing lights like FRED, Strobes, Mars Lights, etc.

 

Compatible with Digitrax DCC Transponding Systems

 

Approximate size: 0.461” x 0.31” x 0.161” (11.7mm x 7.8mm x 4.1mm)

 

and the specs you posted said the function was a max of 65ma compared to digitrax's 125ma

[inobu]

Ok

 

Inobu