Ikonen's Finnish N Scale Project Diary

[Keisarikonen]

I have some updates on projects that I would like to post as a diary here so I can revisit the progress and remark what I could do further. 

A lot of these are quickbuilds with recycled materials and very-very little means. It also serves as a learning diary and improving the skills.

 

Im open for comments, thoughts, advice, criticisms and guidance on improvement. You can simply reply the layout in question.

Table of Contents

 

0. Nippon Bali (Old Layout, disbanded)
1. Metsä no Sakura-Tani (Table Layout V.1)

2. Siltakylän Ratayhtiö (Table Layout V.2)

3. Fubuki-Kaupunki (Suitcase Snow Layout)

4. Neljä vuodenaikaa: 春, 夏, 秋, 冬 (Foam Modular Quickbuild)
5. Budget Model Railways Shelf Layout Challenge (60x23cm shelf module)

Edited 19 hours ago by Keisarikonen

[Keisarikonen]

Metsä no Sakura-Tani (Valley of the Cherry Blossom Forest)
Status (Unfinished and Abandoned)
 

Type: Tabletop Triple Loop with 2 sidings and a double crossover.
Track: KATO Unitrack
Base: IKEA Meltorp table (125x75), Cardboard 130x75
Operation: DC (Roco, Arnold, Mehano Controllers)
Features: Hill and City.

SCARM Diagram

: 

SCARM File:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16ecaWyMIaKQOjQQ-QsgcTgulpU69YejR/view?usp=sharing

 

Description

 

 

The table layout was conceived after acquiring some used track and assets from the previous "Nippon Bali" diorama. The new diorama was built on top of an IKEA Melltorp table (125 cm × 75 cm), which accommodates at minimum a 315 mm radius KATO Unitrack curve. Initial plans were more track-heavy and serves as an industrial or shunting sector, however it was decided that more emphasis on scenery and larger loops are better for aesthetics. So plans diverged till the one in the attached SCARM document.

 

An initial challenge was the hardness of the table surface, which made drilling or proper terraforming difficult. To address this—given the availability and cost-effectiveness of the material—layers of used cardboard were glued down and used as a base. Although not perfectly flat, it served the purpose well.

 

The base was painted with burnt umber/brown acrylic to simulate soil. A leftover grass mat from Auhagen, previously used, was applied again. However, since it had been badly torn, static grass was added to cover the grassy areas. The result is imperfect, but spot repairs and additional cosmetic touches (such as trees) were always intended over time.

 

The hill was constructed using paper styrofoam cups as supports, then shaped with papier-mâché and tissue glued into form. The cliff face was made using an old Noch plaster mold, supplemented with plaster pressed into crushed aluminum foil to achieve a textured rock surface.

 

The city area began with road tape from Flying Tiger, later enhanced using Woodland Scenics' tarmac/asphalt paint. Details like parking lots were made from painted card, molded in with leftover plaster and then painted.

 

For ballast, Woodland Scenics dark ballast was used. Due to a major color mismatch, I ended up over-ballasting—something I now regret. Once the glue had set, cleaning the track proved extremely difficult, teaching me a hard lesson: never over-ballast Unitrack, especially over points, switches, and screws. I had to loosen the mechanism using a mixture of soapy water and isopropyl alcohol.

 

The buildings came from leftover structures in the used lot. They worked surprisingly well, and a light wash with black paint helped tone down the colors—though ironically, I now feel the original vibrant tones gave them more character.

 

Although by summer the layout had become a striking centerpiece in the apartment, it ultimately proved too large to manage and expand. After some reflection, conversations on Discord, and watching videos of more compact layouts on YouTube, I decided to abandon and dismantle the project—salvaging any useful parts and equipment for future builds.

 

Lesson learned: never over-ballast Unitrack, especially on critical components. I may try painting the ballast next time instead. Also it started a trend to build smaller and better, rather than bigger and quicker.

 

Running Video with Trains:

 

Note: There are no images of building process due to a lack of foresight.

 

(Grammar check by ChatGPT)

Other pictures/Attachments:
 

Spoiler

 

 

 

Edited 23 hours ago by Keisarikonen

[Keisarikonen]

Siltakylän Ratayhtiö (Bridge Town Train Company)
Status (Finished and Operational)

 

Type: Tabletop single loop.
Track: KATO Unitrack
Base: Alex Drawer on Castors by IKEA (67x66), Recycled IKEA Lack table legs, Cardboard.
Operation: DC (Roco) + Kato Analog converter for Point Motor.
Features: Triple Bridges, River. Industrial shunting and loop. Recycled materials.

SCARM Diagram

 

SCARM File:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JWaNgSMuUc6g-cx4458aRGyU_FtWmH9D/view?usp=sharing

 

Description:

One of the main issues every model railroader faces is space—and unfortunately, I’m no different. At the time, the back and underside of the layout held a drawer on wheels I had found in a skip. Amazingly, it had everything intact except for a single screw, which I replaced. The drawer became the storage spot for my trains, tracks, scenic items, and controllers for the Metsä Sakura layout. However, it took up a lot of space and made cleaning difficult. Our long-haired cat also loves hiding under the tables, and that area ended up with hairballs and the occasional mess. Considering space, hygiene, and practicality, I decided to shrink the layout. Attached is my inspiration (Note: You'll hear a lot about Budget Model Railways by Mike and Douglas, as they are a major influence for this diorama and future budget projects).

 

 

I designed the layout in SCARM and had to reduce its length to make room for other items. I also learned that orienting a layout diagonally, instead of at a strict 90-degree angle, creates a far more interesting shape and helps save space. So, I built a prototype using leftover cardboard.

 

 

Looking at the prototype now, I’m still amazed at how much space I’ve saved—nearly half of the original footprint—with even more operating potential. This smaller size feels far more achievable to complete, rather than tackling something too large. For once in my diorama-making journey, I intend to build something I can actually finish—and be proud of.

 

 

I initially planned to use a tighter radius curve with just two turnouts, similar to BMR’s design. However, I found it odd that the tracks were so compact, with sidings going inward and the corners left open. I decided to switch the orientation and place one of the sidings outward instead.

 

I also came up with a concept for the diorama that includes a small town, a commercial district, an industrial district, a station, a depot for shunting puzzles, and a river crossing. I began by piling cardboard and gluing the layers, then drew a rough outline with marker and cut out the riverbed with a knife. I was honestly surprised at how many features I could fit into just one module. 

 

I tested the track radius with all my locos. Although 183–45 is rather tight for some (and by some, I mean many), it was still cleared by much of my collection—including the D51, C59, C62, and commuter trains. Many of the buildings were reused and salvaged from the first diorama. However, two—namely the coal crane and the Japanese café—are among the newest additions. I also later acquired a large lot of buildings that will further enrich the diorama’s visual identity.

 

The process remained similar. I marked the tracks with a marker, painted the unmarked areas brown, glued down grassy patches, and spread static grass. I also experimented with something new—Diorama FX by Vallejo—which provides a coarse road or base texture. It was extremely easy to apply and spread, and the result was exactly the texture I wanted for roads.

 

To determine areas of depth, I initially painted them to visualize the terrain. I noticed that the cardboard texture on the riverbed created a "chicken-skin" effect when painted. Inspired by @Marklinofsweden’s water modelling techniques, I covered the riverbed with toilet paper and glue to create flowing water textures.

 

I also experimented with different water modelling materials. While some modellers suggested using clear coat aqua-based lacquer, I had found it too sticky on my Nippon-Bali layout. A kind lady at the hardware store suggested trying wood knotting solution. I had never used it before, but initial tests showed it dried clear. I applied it layer by layer like lacquer, and it worked—until I overapplied it. In excess, it simply refused to dry, leaving sky-blue streaks that were far too visible.

 

This led me to redo the river entirely, including the quay walls (originally made from thick card with printed brick textures). I covered them all with tissue paper and glue, using a brush to recreate water patterns. After painting it to my desired color, I shopped around and tried Vallejo Water Texture, which turned out to be brilliant—offering depth without stickiness and easy application from a small bottle.

 

To make a railway crossing, I followed DIY and Digital’s method for Unitrack crossings, using card cut and painted to a tarmac color. I used an abrasive track cleaner to smooth out imperfections. The Diorama FX material helped seamlessly connect the road to the track and was easily sanded for realism.

 

Once the river was finished, I repositioned the buildings and track, adding a footbridge and some DM-Toys kits I got for a bargain. For the bridges, I cut tunnel mouths in half and joined them with card. Once fitted, I glued them in place and blended them into the river scene with Diorama FX. Later, I found some .STL files and 3D printed the bridges, since some trains had started crashing into the edges due to warping and wear.

 

I set up the commercial district using cardstock tile and pavement and placed the two Japanese buildings on top. Shrubbery, flowers, and leftover trees from Nippon-Bali were added. While many modellers on forums and Discord prefer muted, weathered tones, I like my buildings unweathered—so the colors pop and look striking from afar.

 

I installed an overhead signal tower near the shunting yard and completed the industrial/refueling section. Shunting here turned out to be one of the most enjoyable parts of the whole layout.

 

Originally, the diorama sat directly on the cardboard base, but then came the tedious job of installing lighting. Lamps in Finland are absurdly expensive, so I repurposed an old string light fixture’s battery box (3 AA batteries), which was ideal since I don’t leave the lights on for long. To make space, I used IKEA LACK table legs to create a skeleton under the layout for cable routing. That’s when I also wired the turnouts.

 

Attempts at building my own AC–DC converter proved futile, so I eventually bought one from J-Scale. The kind and generous Mr. Wolf supplied me with a converter that turns accessory output into DC power for the switch operation. Now, all the turnouts are connected to corresponding blue toggle switches.

 

Finally, after winning a huge N scale building job lot on eBay, I swapped out and added more buildings—ones that better matched the Finnish-Japanese flavor of the layout. One small hut (mökki) will even play a key role in a future project.

 

 

Here it is: the finished layout, lit up and complete. Of course, there are things I still want to improve—like tree variety, grassing, ballasting, weathering, and a backdrop for better photos. But overall, I’m truly happy with how it turned out.

 

Running Videos:

 

 

 

Attachments:

 

Spoiler

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 21 hours ago by Keisarikonen

[Keisarikonen]

Fubuki-Kaupunki (Blizzard Town)
Status (Finished and Operational)

 

Type: Suitcase single loop.
Track: KATO Unitrack
Base: 32x50x25cm Suitcase (21" variant), Cardboard, Newspaper, Toiletpaper.
Operation: DC (Mehano)
Features: Snow.

 

SCARM:

 

SCARM file: Pretty self-explanatory.

 

I'm pretty sure by now you're aware of how active and scatterbrained I can be. If I see something shiny, I’ll grab it; if I find something interesting to try, I’ll dive right in. Screw perfection—trial and error is the best teacher. In modelmaking, that philosophy rings especially true.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/DJTyS5vM5pg/?img_index=5 

Suitcase layouts are usually built in large cases—not a 21" like mine (unless it's a shunting layout). But I’ve always wanted to try the smallest and narrowest gauge KATO offers. After picking up a couple of packets in Germany (and coincidentally breaking my suitcase on the return trip), I decided to give suitcase layouts a go. My inspiration? @suitcasetrains on Instagram.

 

Why winter? Well, it’s Finland. I wanted to tackle the challenge of winter scenery, and this layout is my first project done with guidance from Turun Alueen Maalarit, the modeller's guild of Turku.

 

The first step was tearing out the cloth and lining of the suitcase—like a TSA officer on the hunt for flour (only they'd find snow scatter instead). I then unscrewed the broken extendable handle. Since the suitcase wasn’t flat, I built a base using newspapers, leftover cardboard, and IKEA table legs. While I wish I’d made the layout removable, I later realized there was still space in the opposite compartment. I used the same knotting solution from my river project to bond the cardboard base to the suitcase.

 

While prepping the landscape, I began testing track placement and how to ballast it with snow. My original plan was to paint the tracks white, then apply the snow, or alternatively, glue and dust snow powder over the layout. However, prototype snow in Finland often completely buries the ties, with only the rails visible—something I wanted to replicate. But with KATO Unitrack and its built-in ballast, that proved challenging.

 

After testing, I decided to paint the trackbeds white with acrylic paint. Once dry, I glued around the track and ties—carefully avoiding the rails—and dusted the whole module with snow scatter used in military modeling. It felt like I was artificially aging the track. Once dried, I flipped the suitcase and shook off the excess.

 

To ensure operability, I tested the layout using the Bachmann Plymouth WDT—the only loco that could navigate the tight radius. I used a hobby knife and abrasive track eraser to clear the rails. However, the eraser shavings stuck to the snow powder, making it look slightly dirty. Initially disappointed,

 

I later embraced this "dirty snow" effect. After discussing with the guild, we realized it looked like slushy, post-winter snow—something very prototypical. I lightly tinted areas brown to simulate mud and tire residue.

 

This effect ended up saving both the layout and my wallet, sparing me from buying more scatter. I used Diorama FX for the roads and painted them Woodland Scenics asphalt color. I scattered snow on the roads and painted wheel marks to reflect frequent usage. I also studied how snow settles on roofs and marked specific areas to apply scatter. It worked brilliantly. I even added snow to evergreen trees to reflect Finland’s typical winter foliage.

 

Many of my buildings had ugly molded bases from Noch, Faller, or Kibri. I painted them white and added scatter to blend them into the landscape. This gave the effect of snow shoveled from the roads onto the pavements, which is very common.

 

With such a small layout, placing buildings was a challenge. I ran the Plymouth WDT with various wagons to ensure nothing collided. I even forced a GP40 around the track to stress-test the space. Once confident, I placed the final decorations—rocks, trees, bushes—and carefully hid wiring by gluing and scattering along the edges, routing them through a hole in the suitcase wall.

 

Still, something felt missing. The top-left corner looked empty. I found a Z-scale bridge I had no use for and placed it there. I hid the pillars with bushes, added asphalt texture, and painted it to look like dirty snow. It became an elevated bridge overlooking the town—a welcome addition. I glued down some old N scale cars too—mainly junk ones I didn’t plan to use elsewhere.

 

Finally, I had some cheap plastic lampposts without lights. I glued the tops and applied snow scatter, giving the illusion of frosted-over LED lights—a nod to Japan's shift from incandescent bulbs.

 

At some point, I realized that the Plymouth isn't really a good fit in the diorama. Luckily, there is a C-Type of an ED11 in J-Scale, so I took one. The electric locomotive is very nice to display a small mountain railroad, and they match the green donnerbusche carriages from TRIX and Arnold. So its pretty good.

 

I paused the project for nearly six months until I was invited to exhibit at the Finnish Railway Museum. After consulting the Discord gang, I decided to light up the houses—after all, winter is dark. I bought LEDs and wired them to a 3xAA battery box. Unfortunately, they gave off a reddish-orange glow—possibly due to overvoltage. I’ll need to add resistors or find a better lighting solution.

 

Snow modeling is incredibly challenging—especially with KATO Unitrack—but this layout was a valuable learning experience. There are some negatives, using such thin foundations made the diorama very loud and its vibrations could be heard so easily, dampeners should be considered for the next one.  

 

Running Video:
 

 

Edited 20 hours ago by Keisarikonen