Kingmeow Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 I got a Kato EF510-0 when I was in Japan and was able to finally get the DN163K4A decoder at the Amherst Model Railroad Show last month. A club member of mine got the same decoder to install on his Kato EF65-1000, which he did in his hotel room, with no issues. So I figured my install would be the same. The install went well with no mechanical or programming issues. I did have to put a touch of solder on the board to ensure a solid electrical connection to the two half frames. Not unusual, especially with the new thinner decoder boards. It was only when I placed it on my home layout to run a few laps did I notices gaps at the sill, BOTH ends. Huh??? It was almost like the shell was skewed. I can gently press down on the corners to close the gaps but as soon as I let go it would open up. Not much force needed to push it down so I know it was something hitting the top of the shell. The loco ran great and if I was normal ( 🤪 ) I would have just lived with it. The OCD began.... I opened up the shell to look around and noticed that there are only two locking tabs on the half frames. One on each side. That explains the gaps on each end and each side. The side that has a locking tab would keep the shell secure, allowing the other side to float and push up. That was an interesting discovery. Why would Kato not have locking tabs on all four corners? The many Kato US locos that I have all have four point attachments. With further examination I noticed that the roof is a separate attachment piece. I wasn't too sure as from the outside it looks like a one piece molded shell. Good job Kato on such precise attachment! It looked like there are four tabs on each side that once released will allow removing the roof. I was hoping that once removed I can put the shell back on and see if there are any components of the decoder that are slightly too high. Removing the roof was not as hard as I imagined. No struggles at all. The shell went back on and looking really carefully I was guessing this was the culprit. It was not easy for a first guess as the gaps are not large and there are a few other areas that were suspect. No obvious ah ha! moment of a clearance issue. I tried slipping a piece of paper to see if it went through. It didn't but I still could not definitely point to this area as the culprit. Then I decided to sight down the length of the loco and it seemed like I was on to something. Feeling uneasy to hack away at a new loco, I decided anyway to cut out that area to cure the OCD. It was hidden, didn't seem to affect the structural integrity and was easy to get to. With the shell back on for a test fit, it gave those components some clearance. Further, with the roof back on, you can see there's an additional channel in the roof for clearance in case those components needed more room. Holding my breath I put the shell back to see if that worked. If not, I had another area in mind that may be have clearance issues. But luckily it worked and the OCD was cured. For now as @chadbag said in another one of my other posts. 🤣🤣🤣 4 Link to comment
Wolf Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Good job! I usually have to cut into the roof on most locos when exchanging the DC board with a DCC conversion one. OT: What OCD? That thing does not even have number plates (yet) 😜 1 Link to comment
Kingmeow Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 14 minutes ago, Wolf said: OT: What OCD? That thing does not even have number plates (yet) 😜 Damn you! 🤣 I can't even take a break around here! 😁 Down to the basement again......! Link to comment
cteno4 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Its bad when you have ocd about your ocd… jeff 2 Link to comment
Brett Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Hello to op,can i ask a Question I have just converted my first loco to dcc,a EF510. I used a Decoder from DRM Though pleased with the install,i too have the shell not going back to original position So are you saying to remove parts from the shell,rather than from the cast body? thanks Brett 1 Link to comment
chadbag Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 On 2/10/2025 at 12:20 PM, Wolf said: . OT: What OCD? That thing does not even have number plates (yet) 😜 Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. basically something gets under your skin like a gap in the fitting of your locomotive shell to the chassis or something else trivial that you can’t let be but have to take care of immediately 1 Link to comment
bc6 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Replying to this post for when I'm ready to DCC my EF510. Link to comment
Kingmeow Posted Sunday at 09:05 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 09:05 PM 17 hours ago, Brett said: Hello to op,can i ask a Question I have just converted my first loco to dcc,a EF510. I used a Decoder from DRM Though pleased with the install,i too have the shell not going back to original position So are you saying to remove parts from the shell,rather than from the cast body? thanks Brett Correct. I'm not familiar with DRM decoders so it may have different components pushing up on the shell and not necessarily the location where I cut the roof on my shell. You will have to do some investigation on where the hang-up is and see if you can relieve that area. Link to comment
Brett Posted Sunday at 10:43 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:43 PM Thankyou initially the install went well,as the nce read the decoder and programmed. but on track somethings amiss.(headlights work but runs badly) the decoder(when in place) seems to tight at the fork end,making it bend in the middle. also those small brass clips are kind of loose,so maybe i need to somehow tighten. i think im going to try and eek out some of the loco body to let the tab of the decoder sit better. I never have any trouble using katos decoders,should stay away from the loco;s ha! Brett Link to comment
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