Three Days on JR Shikoku: Spring 2024 Recap

[Ekiben]

Day One - Southwest from Matsuyama to Uwajima and the Yodo Line

 

I'd initially hoped to convey the full splendour of my solo three-day JR Shikoku Pass adventure, but work, my toddler and an endless supply of railfan videos on You Tube has left me with nothing to show six month after my trip. Suffice it to say the scenery was gorgeous, the people I met were friendly and helpful, the food was delish and the prices extremely favourable. With that out of the way, let's get on with the train.

 

I bought my JR Shikoku Pass in Matsuyama, a city my family and I visit frequently as it is my wife's hometown. I picked up the pass the day before my voyage began for 12,500 Yen. Whereas other JR passes have seen huge price increases in recent years, the JR Shikoku passes still offer huge value. Using Matsuyama as my base, my plan was to venture out to explore different areas of the island each day. I did most of my trip planning through the JR Shikoku website, paper timetables I picked up for free at various train stations along the way and Hyperdia. These were mainly in Japanese, so it helps to take some time to get familiar with the kanji spellings of some of the stops along your route. 

 

(Pic. 1: Tools of the trade: Ready to go with timetables and my JR Shikoku Rail Pass) I'd largely mapped out my route and schedule thoroughly ahead of time, but it was nice to have these for last-minute changes to the plan.

 

(Pic. 2: Homebase is Matsuyama Station in Ehime Prefecture.)

 

The plan for Day One was to catch an early train heading west out of Matsuyama along the JR Yosan Line to the terminus at Uwajima. Once there, I would have only a few minutes to transfer to the JR Yodo Line for the second leg of my trip to the end of the line at Kubokawa.

 

 

(Pic. 3: Three's company! I spotted an interesting lash up even before setting foot on my first train. I think this must have been a morning rush hour local bound in my direction. It features a Kiha 54 (right), Kiha 32 (centre) and a Kiha 32 in special livery up there in the front. Pictured in the background is the elevated track that will serve the new JR Matsuyama Station, which is currently under construction.

 

(Pic. 4: Kiha 32 in Oni (demon) livery. I've seen this model in N scale, but it's still a ways down the wish list. 

 

 

 

(Pic. 5: Here's my 2000 Series Uwakai Limited Express in Anpanman livery bound for Uwajima Station. Anpanman (Eng = Red Bean Paste Bun Man) is a popular Japanese anime character whose creator is from Shikoku. Too bad my toddler stayed home this morning!

 

(Pic. 6: Breakfast of champions for a day of riding the rails. Steamed meat dumpling (Niku-man) w/ mustard and large black coffee.

 

The trip to Uwajima takes about 80 minutes with about a half dozen stops along the way. The route slices through the mountains of western Shikoku, emerging in lush green valleys. In late April, many of these forests were covered in the purple hue of flowering wisteria, a plant I've never before seen in the wild.

 

(Pic. 7: Arrival at Uwajima Station. Goodbye Anpanman train and a quick hop over to track 3 to catch my awaiting Kiha 54 headed towards Kubokawa on the JR Yodo Line.

 

(Pic. 8: The Kiha 54 did not disappoint as it was liveried in this colourful Nanyo style. Nanyo is the name of this region and this train features many of the local mascots created to represent different towns across the area. This is one of only four daily trains that run the complete route. Despite the low frequency, there were never more than a dozen people on board and many of these appeared to be  tourists who boarded for fairly brief trips. The train gradually out of the plains surrounding Uwajma on and into the hills, which were largely shrouded in a spring fog this morning.  Here the train stopped for several minutes at JR Ekawasaki Station in Kochi Prefecture for a bathroom break.

 

(Pic. 9:  A little further up the line we stop again. This time at JR Tosa-Taisho Station, one of the larger communities along the line. The bullet train headed in the opposite direction on the left is a refashioned Kiha 32 made up in honour of the original Shinkansen 0 Series, whose inventor was born in Ehime Prefecture. This was a great break that offered 20 minutes or so to explore the station's surroundings and provide another opportunity for anyone needing a trip to the facilities.

 

(Pic. 10: JR Tosa-Taisho is a unique looking station that certainly reflects its woodland mountain setting. 

 

(Pic. 11: This was a highlight of my year. I opened the window to embrace the wind and roar of the Kiha's old Diesel engine as we raced alongside the Shimanto River.

 

(Pic. 12: Even in fog and rain, I found the scenery along the line to be extremely beautiful.)

 

(Pic. 13: Welcome to Kubokawa. Change trains here for the Limited Express Uzushio to Kochi. Here seen in a 2000 Series two-car lash up.

 

(Pic 14: Local train headed for Kochi along the JR Dosan Line  is a 1000 Series diesel. Trains from Kubokawa also head south along the privately operated Tosa Kuroshio Railway, which is also covered by the JR Shikoku Pass.)

 

(Pic. 15: Lunchtime in Kubokawa. I had about an hour to explore the town before my train was set to begin its return journey to Uwajima. Unfortunately the grocery store seemed to be in the midst of a full-scale renovation possibly due to a small earthquake that occurred here a few days earlier. The six-seat ramen shop in town had a lineup out the door so I wandered around until I found an older man selling sushi in a shop next to his home. These were delicious, super fresh and cost me about 600 Yen. The sushi may be ajii, but I honestly can't remember for sure. I enjoyed them back at the station on a counter that offered a view of the tracks and an outlet to charge my phone.)

 

(Pic 16. Approaching yet another unmanned rural station. The mossy platform is a great detail for modellers.)

 

 

(Pic. 17: No passengers to drop off or pick up at JR Iejigawa Station. Such quiet. When I come back someday, I'd love to get off the train at one of these platforms and just wander around the countryside until the next train comes along. In this case, the next train in my direction is in four hours.)

 

(Pic. 18: Back through the heart of the Yodo Line as the afternoon sun begins to poke out. . Locals string humungous koi-noburi (carp streamers across the valley to celebrate boys day as a rite of spring. These are the longest I've ever seen.)

 

(Pic. 19: Still cruising along with the window open.)

 

(Pic. 20: JR Matsumaru Station was a welcome stop as the station's second floor has been transformed into an onsen. Trains here run more frequently as it's closer to Uwajima, so I took advantage of a 90-minute layover between trains for a great soak in the hot springs. While paying my entry fee a retiree approached to ask if I needed help. We got to talking, and he seemed unable to believe that I travelled here all by myself. This is a strange phenomenon that I sometimes experience in Japan. Do I look utterly clueless? Does it seem as if I'm hopelessly lost? We had a nice chat, and he caught up with me afterwards as I was leaving with a parting gift, a bag of fresh donuts he'd gone and bought at a shop across the river. Unbelievably thoughtful and kind. I also picked up my dinner bento here for the unbelievably low price of 250 Yen. I would thoroughly enjoy my mountain vegetables and fried local fish alongside a cold Asahi aboard my train headed home from Uwajima later that evening.

 

(Pic. 21: My ride back to JR Uwajima. The Kiha 32 is a basic, utilitarian workhorse. I love it. This was the busiest train of the day on the Yodo Line as it quickly filled up with school kids headed home or to extra-curricular activities after school.

 

(Pic. 22: I spotted this train yard just outside JR Uwajma Station while checking out Google Earth a few days before my trip. Google Earth was another useful tool to see what was around the stations where I had some time to spare. It would come in handy again when I travelled to Tokushima on Day 3. This quasi-abandoned yard had the remains of an old roundhouse and turntable. I was surprised to see the Kiha 185 (right) as I had expected to only see that train on day three in Tokushima Prefecture in eastern Shikoku. This one was being used in addition to the 2000 Series along the route between Matsuyama and Uwajima. 

 

(Pic. 23: Back to JR Matsuyama aboard an evening Uwakai Limited Express. Finally, a train in its standard paint job. A 20-minute bike ride from here had me back at the in-laws in time for a late dinner another hot bath.

 

And now for some numbers

 

Time on the tracks: 7 hours 55 minutes

Kilometres travelled: 346 km (214 miles)

Trip's total cost (without a rail pass): 9,300 Yen 

 

So that was a great day on the rails. Clearly the main attractions for me are the trains, but I was still able to wander around a few areas, chat with a few locals and soak in a station hot spring. I would absolutely do this agin on a return trip, perhaps extending my trip deeper into Kochi Prefecture and spending the night in a hotel or campground. My in-laws and wife looked at me as though I was insane when I told them where I went, but I have absolutely no problem riding cool trains and enjoying fabulous scenery all day. I get it though, it's not for everyone. Additional water and some snacks were nice to have as there isn't always food readily available when the train stops; convenience stores and vending machines have yet to colonize this part of the world. I will also bring my DSLR camera next time as I think the image quality (especially while taking pics from a moving train) would be far superior to my old iPhone 6s. More time to explore Uwajima would have been nice. It's really nothing special, but it exudes a peculiar charm that I love about these older hard-on-their-luck Japanese towns. Lastly, this was midweek in late April and travelling unreserved on limited express trains proved to be no problem on this and all other days.

 

Stay tuned for Day 2....

Edited November 15 by Ekiben

[Gunzel]

Thanks for a great read and some nice pictures. Looking forward to going back for a short trip on some of the Yodo Line early next year. 
 

i think your numbers might be a bit off because I don’t think you’d be averaging almost 100km/h for the whole trip. 

[Ekiben]

6 hours ago, Gunzel said:

your numbers might be a bit

 

Fixed my numbers. I definitely wasn't averaging 100km/h! Thanks for reading.

[Tony Galiani]

Great stuff - thanks so much for posting - looking forward to more of your report!

 

We really enjoyed our brief stay in Shikoku at the beginning of the month and I am already planning a return trip.  Hoping to get to Kochi and more of western Shikoku on our next visit.

 

Cheers,

Tony

[Ekiben]

Day Two - Slow train to Shimonada

 

I chose to take things easy on my second day. I slept in and had breakfast with the family, then visited a playground near the in-laws house with my toddler. My wife had arranged to see some friends and the grandparents were keen to take over childcare duties, so I headed back to Matsuyama Station for a quick trip on a local train out to Shimonada. It's a station that's been featured in many movies, manga and JR promotional materials, so it's quite famous internationally. It's a simple yet evocative setting that represents a lot of what I enjoy about the railroads on Shikoku.

 

(Pic. 1: The trip out to Shimonada is so popular that there's even a poster at Matsuyama Station (in Japanese and English) telling travellers about the various daily out-and-back route options. I spotted this on my way home from Day 1's adventure. 

 

(Pic. 2: Like the previous day, my journey began at JR Matsuyama Station. Built In 1927, the station retains a more classic look in comparison to the modern stations of Shikoku's other prefectural capitals. Alas, Matsuyama too is due for a remodel, and I've read that trains have began using a newly built elevated track to access the station in Sept. 2024. This will undoubtedly be followed soon by major cosmetic changes and the subsequent onslaught of ever more retail space. A note to travellers: Do not confuse Matsuyama Station with Matsuyama City Station. The latter is located closer to downtown and is served by the city's tram network (which also reaches the JR station) as well as suburban rail service operated by the Iyotetsu Group.)

 

(Pic. 3: My ride out to Shimonada is a Kiha 54, a stalwart for commuter and local service in the Matsuyama area. Not all local services heading west from Matsuyama go to Shimonada. The Yosan line splits at Mukaibara, near the outer edge of the city's farthest suburbs. The Yosan-Uchiko branch takes a more direct route through the mountains, whereas the Yosan Line follows the coast. Since the lines rejoin just before reaching the town of Iyo-Ozu, I planned to make a kind of loop by following the seaside route outbound and catching a train back to Matsuyama from Iyo-Ozu.

 

Pic. 4: After splitting to the seaside route the line sees considerably less traffic. No express services around here. Eleven trips in either direction pass through each day.

It shows in the rail bed. The steep slopes and lush greenery characterized much of the route. In spite of this sense of wilderness, the train was packed to standing room only. A far cry from my solitary trip on the Yodo Line, but such is the price of fame.

 

(Pic. 5: Shimonada was hopping with folks. I didn't get out for fear of missing my train. I'm not a huge fan of crowds and touristy sites, so this put me in a bit of a mood. I'd soon change my mind, however, as I figured so many happy people showing an interest in a remote rural train station and an old diesel engine couldn't be such a bad thing.

 

(Pic. 6: The train almost emptied out completely at Shimonada, so I was pretty pleased to have the old Kiha practically to myself for the remainder of the route. This station at Kitanada is two stops further down the line. It hasn't gone viral, but I think it's got its own kind of charm. Daily passenger volume here is estimated at 30 people. I'd love to model something like this in N scale.)

 

(Pic. 7: The train reached Iyo-Ozu about an hour later. Not sure why I don't have any pictures from that stretch, but I must have just been relaxing and watching the world go by. After hugging the coast, the Yosan Line passes through an interesting industrial port area before turning inland and following the scenic Hijikawa River up to Iyo-Ozu.  

 

(Pic. 8: My Kiha 54 before leaving Iyo-Ozu Station for Yawatahama)

 

(Pic. 9: I noticed this poster at Matsuyama Station. I've always thought the idea of a Shinkansen across Shikoku was a pipe dream, but it seems to be getting some traction. Shikoku is the last of Japan's big four island without a bullet train connection. The logistical challenges are significant and the cost is incredibly expensive, but I won't be too surprised if something like this could be pulled off. This is Japan after all. It would definitely be an impressive engineering feat and make reaching the island much easier, but I feel a lot of Shikoku's distinctive character will get lost when progress finally arrives. 

 

And now for some numbers (Day 2)

 

Time on the tracks: 2 hours 15 minutes

Kilometres travelled: 104 km (64.5 miles)

Trip's total cost (without a rail pass): 2,470 Yen

 

I've already almost paid off my three-day rail pass, and the biggest day is yet to come. This was a total slacker of a day, but I had a really relaxing time riding through the countryside. I even got home in time to meet my wife for a trip to a local hot spring before dinner. There was a huge contrast between the excitement of the crowded train to Shimonada and the relaxing drone of the diesel engine as it swayed onwards to Iyo-Ozu. I spent a good couple of minutes at the station in Iyo-Ozu looking at the posted timetable. I was contemplating between taking an express or using the local. A middle-aged woman who clearly thought I was lost and/or confused soon approached me. She pointed to the Uwakai Limited Express icon and said, "This one." Good enough for me, and I didn't even bother explaining. Some folks will never understand why we'd rather take twice as long (or longer!) to get to the same destination. 

 

 

[tridentalx]

Really liking the detail in this report. Looking forward to day 3.

[Ekiben]

Day Three - Big cities and the backwoods

 

My last day on the trains in Shikoku needn't be too long to recoup the value of my pass, but I wasn't going to be satisfied with a quick jaunt to the suburbs. Today would feature the most trains, the most lines, three of Shikoku's four prefectures and my longest distance travelled. Unfortunately, that meant getting up early to ride my father-in-law's bike to Matsuyama Station for a 6:30AM train. It's funny how the prospect of riding trains all day made it surprisingly easy to hit the road at dawn. Let's go!

 

(Fig. 1:  I got to the station with some time to spare and the convenience shop had yet to open, so I had a chance to wander the platforms. I was surprised to spot the Kiha 185 I'd seen on my first day parked in the small rail yard in Uwajima. I was especially looking forward to riding this train later on in the day in Tokushima Prefecture and had no idea it ever served the Matsuyama-Uwajima route. An auspicious start to the trip.)

 

(Fig. 2: I love the Kiha 32's simplicity and utilitarian vibe. Here's a pair lashed up for an early morning local run.)

 

 

(Fig. 3: The Limited Express Ishizuchi No. 6, a JR Shikoku 8000 Series EMU, departs Matsuyama Station at 6:34AM en route for Takamatsu. The eight-car train splits at Utazu Station, where the first three cars continue to Takamatsu and the other five carriages (called Limited Express Shiokaze) head over the Great Seto Bridge to Okayama.)

 

(Fig. 4: A JR Shikoku 7200 Series EMU spotted in local service on the Dosan Line somewhere near the border of Ehime and Kagawa prefectures.)

 

(Fig. 5: Stage one complete! A little over two hours to reach Takamatsu Station.)

 

(Fig. 6: The JR Shikoku Pass includes several municipal trolley services. After arriving in Takamatsu, I walked across the street to catch the Kotoden for a quick ride up to see the beautiful Ritsurin Japanese garden. Fortunately, there were no wild boar alerts during my visit as I only had an hour to speed walk my way through the grounds. I would have liked to spend more time at the garden and riding the Kotoden tram, but time was tight and I had to catch a train to Tokushima.)

 

(Fig. 7:  I caught a 2600 Series Limited Express Uzushio after a brisk walk from the gardens to JR Ritsurin Station. Here is the train following the 75-minute trip along the Kotoku Line to Tokushima Station.)

 

(Fig. 8: Tokushima Station is a major terminal for JR Shikoku's trains serving the eastern side of the island. There are lines to the north, south and west, so I guess I shouldn't have been so surprised to see so much action while passing through. I did notice a large number of tracks in the area while Google Earth-ing before I left, but I really didn't need to go very far to see loads of classic JR Shikoku DMUs.)

 

(Fig. 9: From left, a Kiha 40, Kiha 185 and a pair of 1200 Series units just hanging out within easy sight of a platform at JR Tokushima Station.)

 

(Fig. 10: While trying to get a better look at these Kiha 40 Series units, I must have inadvertently wandered into a prohibited zone. A railway employee quickly, but very politely set me straight, and we BOTH apologized profusely. JR Shikoku plans to acquire some new diesel units in 2025, and the Kiha 40 is listed as "endangered" by The Red List of Trains in Japan. Sounds as though it's used mainly for local services in the Tokushima area, but It's definitely something I hope to ride when I'm in the neighbourhood again.)

 

(Fig. 11: A 1200 Series prepares to depart south along the Mugi Line from Tokushima Station. This one will have to wait until my next visit.)

 

(Fig. 12: There's always time for lunch. Today's menu features a deep-fried pork cutlet served with rice and Japanese curry at Curry House CoCo just a short walk from Tokushima Station. So delicious.)

 

 

(Fig. 13: I had less time to tour the station area than I'd hoped. Probably because I spent so much time inside the station before eating. JR Tokushima Station is a massive complex with loads of shops and restaurants. I also spotted at least a half dozen business hotels, so it would make a pretty good place to overnight.)

 

(Fig 14:  I had recently ordered a two-car Micro Ace N Scale Kiha 185 from RG-Rokko, so I absolutely had to ride this train along the Tokushima Line to Awa-Ikeda. The Limited Express Tsurugi is named after Shikoku's second-tallest peak (the tallest is Mt. Ishizuchi in Ehime Prefecture). Both are fantastic hikes, although Ishizuchi is much easier to reach via public transport.)

 

(Fig. 15:  From what I can tell, these scarecrows are serving a duel purpose. Protecting crops and welcoming people travelling along the rail line to Tokushima.)

 

(Fig. 16: Arrival at Awa-Ikeda after travelling along the Yoshino River. The valley linking Tokushima and the mountains was pretty developed, so I didn't get the river views for which I'd hoped. Nevertheless, I'd recommend the ride if you're in the mood to watch Japanese daily life pass by the window of a vintage DMU. I can't imagine a better way to spend an hour. The 1000 Series unit to the right is my connecting local train. I only had about 20 minutes in town and spent most of it looking for a washroom. When I eventually found one, I mistook the flush button for a very loud emergency alarm, which I had to abandon because I had no idea how to turn it off. While running to catch my train a few minutes later, a man who'd been sitting in the park switched it off and restored calm. Thank you kind sir, and sorry to disturb your peaceful lunch break in the park.)

 

 

(Fig. 17: I spotted the Shikoku Mannaka Sennen Monogatari at Awa-Ikeda. This is one of several remodelled excursion trains run by JR Shikoku. This one is a Kiha 185. I'd much rather ride normal trains because I prefer watching everyday local people over hanging out with other tourists, but I can certainly see the appeal of these very pretty trains and appreciate any effort to keep these old diesel passenger trains running.)

 

(Fig. 18: It was great to be back on a local. I soon had the window open and was enjoying a short ride back into the mountains of Tokushima to reach Tsubojiri Station along the Dosan Line. My destination was Tsubojiri Station, one of several "secluded stations" that are highly sought after destinations among Japanese rail fans. This one is actually quite well maintained, probably because the tourist train stops here regularly.)

 

(Fig. 19: Tsubojiri Station has no road access and is situated at the bottom of a small valley in the mountains between two tunnels. Visiting the station is a surreal experience, and it truly deserves its own post. This was my goal for the day and a highlight of my trip. I spent nearly two hours exploring the area until my return train to Awa-Ikeda arrived. Limited Express trains, such as this 2700 Series Nampu running between Kochi and Okayama, occasionally race through, momentarily disturbing the quiet natural surroundings of this incredible station.)

 

(Fig. 20: After the local took me back through the mountains to Awa-Ikeda, I caught my homeward train: a 2700 Series Limited Express Nampu in Anpanman livery. This train would take me along the Dosan Line to Marugame Station, where I would subsequently catch an 8000 Series Limited Express Ishizuchi back  to Matsuyama. I was so excited to reach Tsubojiri Station that I drained most of my phone's battery, and this is the last picture I can find from the day. Next time I'm definitely bringing my DSLR.  Having reached my goal, however, I was content to just kick back, enjoy the ride and watch the world go by as I enjoyed the final day of my well-used JR Rail Pass.)

 

And now for some numbers (Day 3)

 

Time on the tracks: 7 hours 56 minutes

Kilometres travelled: 581.3 km (361.2 miles)

Trip's total cost (without a rail pass): 13,750 Yen

 

 

[Tony Galiani]

Wonderful.  I am taking lots of notes!

Tony

[kuro68000]

4 hours ago, Ekiben said:

(Fig. 15:  From what I can tell, these scarecrows are serving a duel purpose. Protecting crops and welcoming people travelling along the rail line to Tokushima.)

 

It says "omotenashi kakashi-tai" (おもてなしかかし隊) which means "scarecrow hospitality squad" on the sign on the left. The single character boards say "arigatou" and "yokosou Tokushima", which you probably know mean "thank you" and "welcome to Tokushima" respectively.

[Tony Galiani]

@Ekiben wrote:  "I love the Kiha 32's simplicity and utilitarian vibe. Here's a pair lashed up for an early morning local run."

 

I am kicking myself as I meant to order a KiHa 32 when I ordered my Marine Liner but forgot.  (True even if hard to believe!  Forgot to order a couple of other items on my list as well.). Anyway,  I suppose now I have an excuse to do another order.

 

And I also need to research fabric, art and cat themed stores in Shikoku.  Thinking if I present my wife with such a list, that will distract her enough for me to copycat some of these train rides.

 

Cheers,

Tony

[cteno4]

11 hours ago, Ekiben said:

(Fig. 15:  From what I can tell, these scarecrows are serving a duel purpose. Protecting crops and welcoming people travelling along the rail line to Tokushima.)

 That one is going into the pile to model! Thanks!

 

Also thanks for this wonderful vicarious travel experience! For those of us who can’t travel much at the present time it’s a wonderful escape.

 

jeff