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Rokuhan e-Train Controller - Any Experience?


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Hi all,

 

I am currently in the process of designing a T-Trak-Z layout. I have plenty of DCC stuff at home for my N and HO trains. However, for my Z scale, I have been looking into simplifying things and have been looking at the Rokuhan e-Train controller.

 

I am just wondering if anyone has had any experience with this controller? For the price it seems quite good and simple to operate. I found it interesting that it uses audio for communication between the tablet/Computer and the controller, rather than a USB connection. 

 

Like I mentioned, I do have a Digitrax DCS52 and an NCE Power cab, but I would rather leave those dedicated to my larger scales, especially in regards to the power they deliver and the effect it may have on my Z scale equipment which I believe doesn't like the high power feed from these DCC systems. I am guessing the power feed from the Rokuhan controller would be safer for the Z scale equipment (Especially the Shorty Stuff).

 

If anyone has either got one or has had experience, I would be grateful if you could share your experiences.

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I don't have any experience with Z or that controller.  However, if you do want to try DCC with it most decoders allow you to specify max voltage output on them so you can detune them for Z.   This is from reading manuals and I have no personal experience.

 

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Hi, I do have the e-Train Controller and am starting to use it with the decoders that Rokuhan sells. Not an expert with other decoders.

 

One of the problems you may find, is that it is difficult to install their e-Train Controller in the mobile phone. It is outdated for Android so you can't download it from the official Play Store, need to go to other webs and dnwload the APK (I still have the APK here if you need). Doing so, the apk works perfect.

 

I also used an old iPad I had which downloaded the app correctly from the App Store. But in this case, the iOS app can't be translated into english (or at least I was not able). The one in Android is in english.

 

The App usage is simple and works great. Turnout decoders are "directly" programmed by keeping two cables connected while sending commands from the app. Train decoders are a bit more complex to program and still have not started with them.

 

Finally, all the app issues may be gone since they have recently released the e-Train Station (https://rokuhan.com/eTS/index.html) a website you can use to connect to the e-Train Controller. With it you should be able to use a laptop or mobile phone web browser to connect to the controller and therefore no need to install the app. Still have not tested it but it has some different features such as building some sort of "2D map" and for example it does not have the feature to play sounds ("level crossing", "train sound", etc.).

 

If there is anything I can help you with, will be more than pleased.

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Ander88: thanks heaps for your reply. If you could send me the apk I would really appreciate it. 

 

I have an old Android tablet I can use to install it, and also a surface pro to try out the browser based control. But it is a little disappointing to hear the browser based control doesn't allow sound to be played.

 

I will be ordering the controller at the end of the month so I will update on how I find it to be myself.

 

Also, I managed to install one of three digitrax tiny decoders into a Z Shorty power car, so I'm interested to see if my install worked or not. It was a tricky job but it's all intact and the body shell still fits.

 

Thanks again!

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5 hours ago, E231-500 said:

Also, I managed to install one of three digitrax tiny decoders into a Z Shorty power car, so I'm interested to see if my install worked or not. It was a tricky job but it's all intact and the body shell still fits.

This is really crucial for me. The reason why I have not made progress with DCCing the trains is because installing Rokuhans decoder inside the shorty chasis is really hard for me. I am not the best in soldering wires but I think its almost impossible to make everything fit inside the chasis. So I would be more than anxious to know about your progress with other smaller decoders.

 

image.thumb.png.2e8d1474df10db46172001bf52fc5c68.png

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I'm only on my phone at the moment so I'll do my best to explain how I did it.

 

I started by removing the top plastic cover and exposing the motor. I took the motor and the small pcb out, leaving the super thin wires from the power pick up on the bogie attached.

 

I desolidered the motor from the pcb and in its place I soldiered the red/black wires from the decoder. 

 

Once the pcb was back in the shell, I replaced the motor and fed the wired through the hole in the top of the shell. Then I connected the orange and grey wires to the motor. 

 

All other wires on the decoder were trimmed right back and the ones I soldiered to the motor and pcb were trimmed to minimum length to save space.

 

The decoder sits where the official rokuhan decoder is designed to go (where the top weight sits in the shell). However, using the slightly bigger Digitrax decoder, i did have to carefully remove a little of the plastic to get it to sit properly.

 

There is a youtube video showing how the official decoder sits in the chassis when installed. Unfortunately it doesn't show the actual install, but i don't think it would be too similar to how I did mine.

when I do my next one (waiting on more motor cars in the post) I'll take pictures as I go for you.

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Ander88 said:

This is really crucial for me. The reason why I have not made progress with DCCing the trains is because installing Rokuhans decoder inside the shorty chasis is really hard for me. I am not the best in soldering wires but I think its almost impossible to make everything fit inside the chasis. So I would be more than anxious to know about your progress with other smaller decoders.

 

image.thumb.png.2e8d1474df10db46172001bf52fc5c68.png

 

I know those things are small, but that looks like a huge decoder.  I don't use decoders with shrink wrap. That'll save a lot of volume/size on the decoder.  Look for the smallest ones.  Like Zimo MX615 Nano.

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Ok so I see even they recommend in their video to cut part of the plastic chasis to fit the decoder.

 

Current uníts are being sold with the protector shrink wrap. I thought It would fit also ok, but looking at the resulta and their video I will remové It to gain some milimeters. Also will try to keep the wires as short as possible.

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I finally got paid today (got to love getting paid once a month) and ordered the e-train controller and some decoders. 

 

I will set everything up when it arrives and let everyone know how it goes. Got EMS shipping so should be quick I hope.

 

I also will try and get photos of my decoder installation into another of my Shorty motor units.

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