NozomiFan's Great guide to soldiering!

[NozomiFan]

First off, let's talk about the right equipment.

There are many different types of soldiering irons, but the best would be a small electronics soldiering iron.

I use a simple battery operated iron with a pointed tip.

Soldier is also very important and most come in small rolls.

YOU MUST BUY ROSIN CORE SOLIDER FOR SOLDIERING PIECES OF WIRE!

Flux is a very important tool, but many people prefer to not use it.

Flux is a weak acid that etches

 

the wire for the soldier to flow into. I personally do not use Flux, because of it's potency.

You can get most things at Home Depot, Lowe's and for overseas, a local hardware store/electronics store.

 

Now to start actually soldiering...

 

I start by stripping the wires and twisting them together. After that, if you have a alligator clip stand use that to hold the wires in place.

Now, if needed, add the Flux.

Then, heat up the wire with the soldiering iron, then lightly touch the wire near the soldiering iron and take the iron off the wire.

 

You have completed soldiering!

 

Ask or PM me if you have any questions at any time!

 

 

Mmmmmmmmm...... Lingonberry Juice...

[KenS]

Good summary.  One thing to add: if you solder near something that's heat-sensitive, like attaching feeder wires to flex track with plastic ties, or soldering to LED leads, heat becomes your enemy.  Two things can help with that:

 

1. "pre-tin" the wires (i.e., heat them a little and flow some solder onto them, then let them cool). This will make the soldering easier/faster, and reduce the amount of heat needed.

 

2. Place a "heat sink" between the place being soldered and the part that could be damaged.  The alligator clips you mention can serve that function, and you can buy simple aluminum clamps that work for small parts.  But what I really like for track soldering are surgical hemostats with a curved end, which you can find in some electronics stores.  These are fairly heavy compared to aligator clips or normal soldering heat-sinks, so they provide a large chunk of metal to absorb heat.  And the curve gets the handle out of the way.  I'm not the best at soldering, and they kept me from melting more than a few ties.

[Lawrence]

If I may make a few additions too:  never, ever, ever twist the conductors (wires) all this will do is weaken them, always try to tin your wires straight.  If you have a stand for your iron there should be a little gap for a sponge, keep that sponge moist and wipe your tip often to keep it clean and put a touch of solder on the tip before applying it to the joint.

 

As for flux, the rosin cored solder is to all intents a flux core, this aids the transfer of heat and prevents you having the tip in contact with the joint for long periods, if you are concerned about any type of erosion the residue can be cleaned off with white spirit.  When soldering to rails you may need additional flux to speed up the heat transfer especially if you have a low powered iron.

 

Again if you are soldering to rails or any other bigger metal part you should ensure the area is thoroughly cleaned first (fibre glass pens are good here) and always try to tin (as per Kens instructions) both parts to be joined as this will give you a quicker and stronger join.

 

If after soldering your joint looks dull and grainy (should always be smooth and shiny), it is likely something has moved during the cooling process thus causing a "dry joint", this will lead to a high resistance at the point of the joint, which will draw a greater current from your power supply and the joint will heat up which will not only further degrade the joint but can (in certain circumstances) cause a fire hazard.

 

Hope this adds to what has already been posted