Pocket Sized Modules

[Andrew G]

Hello Folks,

 

I've been interested in the concept of the Kato Mini-dioramas but do not want to go to the point of purchasing and importing them to Australia. Therefore I am experimenting with home made modules that will be compatible and have a bit more real estate. 5mm foam-core on 20mm high timber frames appears to to do the job. Other options are being investigated.

 

This Kato website and its associated pages expands the knowledge of the concept, https://www.kato-dioramakit.com/?fbclid=IwAR1R_p-5HhnjweyjgRSVfzRacc5PhM3i-qs9ViGPa_Uif7UOqvtyLfQwNaQ.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Andrew G

Edited May 22, 2023 by disturbman
post formatting

[Andrew G]

Here is the first of my (nearly) fully sceniced Kato Minidiorama compatible module.

[cteno4]

Nice Andrew! So much more fun to dream up a scene and decide the size and shape the modules needs to be and where the track needs to be and not let the modular format rule the scene.

 

jeff

[PaulMmn]

On 5/22/2023 at 5:41 AM, Andrew G said:

Hello Folks,

 

I've been interested in the concept of the Kato Mini-dioramas but do not want to go to the point of purchasing and importing them to Australia. Therefore I am experimenting with home made modules that will be compatible and have a bit more real estate. 5mm foam-core on 20mm high timber frames appears to to do the job. Other options are being investigated.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Andrew G

Andrew--

I'm interested in these modules as an introduction to modeling.

I'd like permission to re-publish your module outlines as part of the NRail group's exploration of the Micro Modules.

--Paul E Musselman

 

[Andrew G]

Paul, At present I am working on what I think is a better rendition of the micromodule concept that is still compatible with the Kato mini diorama by having a track base height of 25mm,  but closer to a more mainstream concept of modules. Still keeping the 183mm curve but opting for 186mm straights if the 124mm is a bit short of the planned scene. The 186mm length also allows a loco or piece of rolling stock to properly enter into the module and be contained by it. The basic U.S.A 40ft box car or switcher is about 80mm long and the Kato Minidiorama is only 124mm, so it alomst `flashes in and out' of the module. The Dimensions of the pentagonal 45 degree curve modules still needs a bit of fine tuning. The curve module in the photos is totally 5mm foamcore and the straight module is a 5mm foamcore module top with 25mm high 3mm thick balsa wood sides. I glue in small blocks of wood to provide a solid material to nail the Unitrack into.

We should probably discuss the concepts a bit more and have some other modellers do some `beta testing' of the concept before widely publishing anything. Thank-you for the interest.

Edited September 13, 2023 by Andrew G

[Andrew G]

23 hours ago, PaulMmn said:

Andrew--

I'm interested in these modules as an introduction to modeling.

I'd like permission to re-publish your module outlines as part of the NRail group's exploration of the Micro Modules.

--Paul E Musselman

 

Paul, please see the post above ...

[Andrew G]

Hello All, Myself and a few other modellers are moving along with developing "Pocket Sized Modules" that are fully compatible with the Kato Mini Diorama modules, but allow for more `real estate'. Attached are some photos plus a PDF copy of a very incomplete draft of the module guidelines. They provide enough information to build modules but do not yet cover electrics and other details and considerations. ant feedback is most welcome.

Also see on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/85896932@N07/albums/72177720309074008/with/53341606810

Cheers, Andrew of Auz.

Pocket Sized Modules - Draft Guidelines - 2024-04-09 .pdf

Edited April 24 by Andrew G

[cteno4]

Andrew,

 

Great, good of you to produce this document. This goes hand in hand with the mini onetrak modules I’ve been working on with the wooden canvases for those not able to do any woodworking. I’ve got the same basic specs of 1” height to track base and minimum 1mm overhang from the edge of the modules.

 

Great thing about these mini modules is other specs are not needed as it’s so flexible to wander modules around on a table with a  few more bits of track between some modules and mix and match radiuses.

 

jeff

[Andrew G]

The N Scale Pocket Sized Modules that I have been working on have now got their own Facebook Group. This Group also holds a draft copy of the Guidelines that you need to show the details of building a Pocket Sized Module according to the standards. N Scale Pocket Sized Modules are fully compatible with Kato N Scale Mini Dioramas.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/nscalepocketsizedmodules

The draft copy of the Guidelines (27/05/2024) is also attached to this post.

Pocket Sized Modules - Draft Guidelines - 2024-05-27 -16 page.pdf

[Andrew G]

POCKET SIZED MODULES at the Australian National Convention, Wangaratta, Victoria, Australia, June 1st & 2nd 2024. More photos to follow...

[Andrew G]

POCKET SIZED MODULES at the Australian National Convention, Wangaratta, Victoria, Australia, June 1st & 2nd 2024 Part 2

 

[N-Osoi]

Looks great and fun! Any issues with making a loop, or does following the guidelines and having spare track pieces mean it all links up nicely?

[Andrew G]

No real issues with making a loop. I you are moving beyond a simple oval, as I did at the N Scale Convention, then you do have to think clearly about placing individual modules, especially `s bends' and making sure that you choose an axis of symmetry  to plan around. A simple track planning program such as XTRAKCad is a good friend for planning. "After a while I think that most people will become intuitive about the process. Having a few spare 124mm and 62mm Unitrack straights and 183mm curves will help. You can make up some temporary supports for the non-module track. 🙂

 

Edited June 9 by Andrew G

[Andrew G]

Another way to fill gaps in Pocket Sized Modules layouts is with bridge modules. Essentially a 124mm Unitrack straight section fitted to an adapted existing bridge kit or a 'custom quicky' like the foamcore impromptu version in the photo.

[Andrew G]

Hello Folks, On a recent late winter's afternoon (I'm in Orstralia) I set up my Pocket Sized Modules to turn the wheels on some German and Australian locos and rollingstock. I do have plans for some Japanese themed modules for my B Train Shorties.

Cheers, Andrew G of Auz.

 

 

 

[SwitchOnSwitchOff]

These are fantastic. Really nice work! I too was interested in the Kato modules but they seem impossible to find for purchase now.

[Welshbloke]

I like the idea of integrating random bridge kits which can be tweaked to meet the height standards. Good way to get some use from a structure kit you've always been tempted by but never had a reason to buy.

 

I also noticed that Kato have revamped their kits to include a couple of track piers, so you can now assemble a complete R183 circle using two module kits and six normal curves. Might get into that when my budget has recovered from buying the latest round of Kato Rhätische Bahn stock, I reckon it'll cost about £60 at UK prices.

 

It might be possible to cram a tiny PWM controller with a USB PD input into the base of a custom module. That way you'd just have to plug a suitable power bank or phone charger in to run it anywhere. I've run an old Liliput HOe loco for a few hours from such a setup before now, but I'm still looking for a suitable enclosure for it:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cvz8CRpItR0/?igsh=a3FqY2F1cG4zZnZ2

 

One thought if anyone is handy at producing .stl files: Lego bricks are widely available and made to tight tolerances. Maybe look at designing a 3d printable top piece which clips onto a given height of Lego bricks to produce an intermediate pier? Lego even make bricks which represent stonework or timber now, and you could build some impressive structures that way as well as making simple pillars. There are multiple files out there you can remix the Lego compatible socket for the underside from.

[cteno4]

I have a small 5v to 12v (adjustable) power controller I’ve been meaning to hook up to a small pwm controller and 5v usb power pack to plunk into a mini onetrak module. On the list of too dos… hopefully I’ll ding it out here and give it a try as I have all the components hanging around, somewhere…

 

jeff

[Welshbloke]

I used a PWM controller board and a USB PD trigger board (you set the voltage you want with DIP switches, then it'll request that from the power supply). Directional control is a simple DPDT switch with the crossover wiring.

 

Incidentally, if you use mine with a power supply which doesn't go up to 12v it'll just settle for a lower voltage, it seems to be more a case of "as close as you can get to 12v and no more". The power bank I first tested it with tops out at 9v, which is still plenty to run N scale.

[cteno4]

Yeah I’ve played with the little pwm boards and they work fine for the half dozen or so trams and smaller trains I tested them on, but I have meant to do some more exhaustive testing for a chunk of time lime a show would get and keep testing temp with the laser thermometer. Some Pwm systems can heat up some motors I’ve found. I think my max was like 9-12v with 12v power supply. But like you said, 9v is plenty for running smaller trains as they are light and don’t run at 150kph! I’m hoping the little step up board works well as would be a simple solution. I have a couple of very powerful usb power packs that are just thin enough to go under a mini onetrak module.

 

I got this step up board so I could just adjust it to the the desired max voltage I wanted out of the pwm as it was for a kid throttle use at shows and make sure they couldn’t run the trains too fast and fly them off the tracks. Easy way to set the max speed for any train plunked down.

 

jeff

[Welshbloke]

I think I found another solution to gap filling, if you have access to a 3d printer.

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:591141

 

One of these pillars (click "files" and scroll down) gives the correct 25mm height for the base of the track above the table. I've printed two so far, won't be able to test them until my module kits arrive but they seem a good stable fit under Unitrack.

Edited August 21 by Welshbloke

[Welshbloke]

Here are my first two Kato modules:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_P8LoCN8Zb/?igsh=NW45eW15NXU3OHhz

 

The campfire has a red surface mount LED underneath a tiny rectangle of car brake light repair tape (aiming to dim it slightly and make it even redder). Power for that is via a CR2032 cell in a holder with switch underneath (holders are about £5 for a pack of ten on Amazon UK). Tents and grass mat were part of a pack from Busch, firepit/wood/log benches are the little rectangles you pop out of the laser cut parts. Needs some campers, backpacks, etc and something on the other side of the track - leaning towards a hedge or fence with an animal or two beyond.

 

The winter canyon scene involved a lot of cutting and shaping of the supplied foam sheet, followed by using Games Workshop and Tamiya texture paints for the grey rocks and snow. The bridge arch is scribed plastic sheet and the waterfall/river is Glue 'n Glaze. Might add some climbers if they don't foul loading gauge.

 

Incidentally, I used an old Minitrix BR MK1 and an equally ancient Con-Cor F3 B unit for setting clearances. That way anything which might reasonably fit around the curves shouldn't scrape. Yet to try any Japanese 20m stock, at the moment there's an Atlas GP40 and a handful of two bay hoppers circulating on the loop:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qV9MkIa0F/?igsh=YWs4Zm5yM2FkdHJq

 

Now to think of what scenery to apply to the next pair. I'm seriously considering something inspired by a warehouse in Bristol for one of them, where the track cut through a corner to reach loading docks on the next building. A slice of the building with a detailed interior upstairs wouldn't be that difficult...