3 Pole Motor replacement for Tomix Shinkansen series 300,

[jappomania]

well, probably we have a different vision of trouble solving method and believe me, I started more than 20 years ago with engine replacement hunting, when the best source was dismantling VHS and CD-ROM reader, internet was not yet an option (onion motors for Lima and Fleishmann, micromotors for Egger Bahn etc..)
first thing I verify is the spare parts availability, otherwise, if the adapted spare is less expensive (eg. old  Minitrix, Arnold and Fleischmann) or have better quality (eg.Lima, Mehano, old Roco, Egger Bahn ), both things is much better
about your 300 (and in general for all the japanese models from Kato and Tomix) I don't find a good reason to try something different than the original, considering that they use a short motor type catalog  mounted on a lot of different models, so your repair is just a plug and play and you can close the chassis and shell quickly, belive me, is not so easy to drill or mill and old zamac chassis if required, the worst thing is when at the end of your job the shell can't be closed

 

this is and example (sorry I bought it for me this morning, I need the rooftop with panto for another  W1)

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/m87547222649

(for shipping rate to UK is better if you verify on Japan Post, around 250,300gr weight)

probably at the end your "test" cost more or less the same but without warranty

if you don't need you models repaired for "yesterday" (be patient....), with a little knowledge of Kato and Tomix production you can repair cheap and quickly a lot of models

(if you need only the engine, you dont' need to buy one motorized 300 series car at 2500-3000JPY, one 500 series is enough and the much simple to find, they sold tons of this models and the first reason of junk declared is the panto or hook broke)

 

ciao!

Massimo

 

p.s. the motor n.3 in your list is the standard family (716, 816, 1020) used from Tramfabriek, DM-Toys, Micromotor etc.. for everything, some STL for DIY adapter for many european chassis can be found easy (I still prefer to mill it in brass, better heating control)

the probability that I will buy an original Minitrix engine at 10 time the cost of one of these is less than finding a chicken with balls

[Andy110869]

Well that didnt work!

 

The aforementioned and screenshot might have been a good idea but for two things.  The connecting tubes were too tiny to sit sturdy in the connecting pipes, and the cardan shaft receiving end in the black drive unit connected to the motor would not fit as the shaft was not long enough to hold the inner connecting shaft. 

 

However what did work was , simply taking the black motor end thingies, we will call it, off the original broken motor and placing on the new ones, even though the shafts were a bit too small, a quick test revealed there was enough play allowed for it  to work, so to help I glued the black motor end thingies giving  a tiny bit more length, set back slightly, but not enough to  notget a proper purchase, and Voila,  Its working nice and smooth and at high speed.  I will post pictures later which will explain most of my lack of technical  understanding for the relevant parts.  

IT saved me having to wait and search and buy a used engine from an old train that at the lowest i found for £30 and thats with no guarantees, and selling as faulty with an engine thats losing power.  I have in essence , just had to pay £6.

 

So okay, this time for my troubles and convaluted way of going about it, I actually spent, £15 for the stainless steel piping and other experimental  motors, but now i will

buy a few of the compatible short shafted, type, until such time Tomix might release the original.  

 

i think it will hold up as long as i dont make it run high scale speeds of 350mph haha.  My concern then would be the cardan shafts, they would not be easy to replace.

Will post pics later. And a working video when i put the thing fully together

[Andy110869]

Heres the photos to show the old and new motor, how it fits , like the original into the metal chassis, and i must add even though the shorter shaft didn't have much purchase of the black hex end thingy,  it was enough without the glue in testing, however in time it might have come loose so i used evo stick 'serious glue', which is very strong and very flexible, its working, but for one thing....

Edited April 27 by Andy110869

[Andy110869]

[Andy110869]

And heres the link to it working , on a bloody carpet!!!.  I know i know, but i did this quickly without putting the board down and i dont ever usually do that.

 

Theres nothing worse than a harvest full of pubes  in a revered loco,  I always hoover the track before every use tho

 

 

Now just the one problem, my directional headlights have reversed going forwards is now the red headlight and the back is white, Is that a negative polarity motor, or have i screwed up the assembly?,  Not too bad if i have to take the loco apart (done it over 20 times)  I can live with it if i really really had to, but would rather it worked. Im not using it in a layout so authentic realism isn't a must for this one, im just pleased it rolls.

[Kamome]

Surely just rotate the motor housing 180 degrees in the frame so that those round terminal tabs are on the opposite chassis side to what they are now. 

Edited April 27 by Kamome

[Andy110869]

2 hours ago, Kamome said:

Surely just rotate the motor housing 180 degrees in the frame so that those round terminal tabs are on the opposite chassis side to what they are now. 

Im afraid i cant, as there are arrows on which orientation the chassis and casing are supposed to go, and yes that would be a nice luxury to switch the motor 180 degrees, but the casing is not symmetrical and has one direction it should be fitted. But thanks for the input.😀

Also what is not shown is there is a wedge peice of plastic, that has a small capacitor that is up against the two motor connectors, there is a special indent  in the metal casing.  

 

I have thought about crossing insulated wires very carefully from the motor to switch polarity, so that each connector, wire hits the brass strip conductors underneath.

Edited April 27 by Andy110869