EMUHunter Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 Hello all, I'm in the process of creating a scratchbuilt N-scale model, and was considering kitbashing a mechanism for it using Kato spare parts. To do so, I would use Kato bogies (like these ones: https://www.plazajapan.com/4952844447281/) and connect the driveshafts to a new motor on a custom-length frame. Are the driveshafts compatible with different motors? Alternatively, I'd try to modify Tomytec's TM-TR02 to serve as a powered bogie, but mounting it is more difficult. Any insights on kitbashing/modifying mechanisms and any quirks of the Kato/Tomytec mechanisms would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 Give us some idea of what the model and your planned chassis mechanism are like, such as how wide the chassis is and the distance between the bogie centers. That will help everyone to give you useful answers. Rich K. Link to comment
EMUHunter Posted August 27, 2023 Author Share Posted August 27, 2023 2 hours ago, brill27mcb said: Give us some idea of what the model and your planned chassis mechanism are like, such as how wide the chassis is and the distance between the bogie centers. That will help everyone to give you useful answers. Rich K. It's a model of a Kawasaki M8 MU car. The chassis will be around 162mm by 15mm with 113mm between the bogie centers (85' by approx. 10' with approx. 59.5' bogie centers in 1:160). I've looked into using Kato's RDC chassis, but I only have 1 on hand and they're hard to come by these days. Currently, I'm thinking of a few possibilities: - One powered bogie only, using the Tomytec TM-TR02. The whole TM-TR02 mechanism is mounted via a screw on top to the shell so that it can rotate freely. I'd have to modify the shell I've designed and also the TR-02's shell to get it to fit and rotate properly, but it's nice as a self-contained solution. - Using spare Kato bogies from their EMU series (most likely an E233 bogie). These aren't perfectly accurate, and maybe a bit short, but close enough for my needs. The driveshaft would be connected to a motor mounted in the car floor underframe. The sketchy part here is powering the bogie and connecting the driveshafts -- one or both driveshafts would have to be extended, or only one bogie can be powered. As for powering the bogie, I'm considering a brass pickup system on a weighted plastic frame. - Modifying a Kato/Tomytec powered chassis. The powered chassis would be cut to remove one bogie, and then the rest of the chassis extended with a printed or metal part to fit a second dummy bogie. In all these cases, the performance won't be great, but it should be enough for an EMU. I'll cook up some pictures/diagrams to make these ideas more clear when I have the chance. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 There are a number of different length driveshafts. Also I have successfully used Tomix drive shafts in Kato models and visa versa when I didn’t have the correct one or couldn’t get it. I have collected a number of spares so would just go hunting for something that fit the ball joint and was the right length. Tomix also made a few drive shafts that were extendable. https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10091632 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10064944 I also used a short drive shaft once by cutting it in two and using a piece of stryene tubing to connect the two halves together to the right overall length. Just had to carefully drill out the stryene tuning I had to the proper id for the shaft. jeff Link to comment
Falcon Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 Hi jeff, what kind of glue do you used ? On 8/27/2023 at 2:18 AM, cteno4 said: also used a short drive shaft once by cutting it in two and using a piece of stryene tubing to connect the two halves together to the right overall length. Just had to carefully drill out the stryene tuning I had to the proper id for the shaft. Thanks Link to comment
cteno4 Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 The one I made I used thin ca glue. Even though the drive shaft seemed like a slicker plastic that might not bond well it did. I roughed up the drive shafts a bit with fine sandpaper and it was a pretty tight fit into the styrene tubing so I expect even if it didn’t bond well to the shaft plastic it probably locked it in place with the ca in all the gaps. I also used ca in the Tomix expandable drive shafts to lock them at the desired lenght. cheers jeff 1 Link to comment
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