Yūkari Layout Building

[Madsing]

SoftBank Building

 

Among other things, I continue to work on detailing the four buildings at the east end of the Main Street. The next building is a SoftBank shop (1st floor), Aomori Dental Clinic (2nd floor), Dimanche Curtains (3rd floor) and Massage Salon (4th floor).

 

These are a few photos of the construction.

 

 

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

 

Edited December 9, 2023 by Madsing

[Madsing]

Vertical signboards

 

I had to build illuminated vertical signboards for the Dance School and SoftBank buildings. I have used the same technique as described here:

but I wanted to improve the uniformness of the light. After googling a bit, I learned that intensity of the light in the backlight panel decreases exponentially. I then created a small python script that generates lines spaced exponentially, and used the resulting document to score the transparent acrylic sheet.

 

 

 

The result is a uniform light distribution, even if there are just two LEDs at both ends of the signboard.

 

 

[cteno4]

Excellent solution Marc! It’s the inverse square law, light dissipates at the inverse square of the distance from the source.

 

love your little window light boxes to individually light windows. 
 

when are you going to just have a ATtiny chip in each building?

 

jeff

[Madsing]

8 hours ago, cteno4 said:

It’s the inverse square law, light dissipates at the inverse square of the distance from the source.

Thanks Jeff, so I was wrong about exponentials, my mistake! I'll modify the script.

 

8 hours ago, cteno4 said:

when are you going to just have a ATtiny chip in each building?

It's already (almost) like that 😀. I'm using tiny LED remote controllers from Adafruit (this module: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1455) and I now need one per building.

Longer description here: https://shin-yukari.weebly.com/led-controller.html

 

Marc

[Madsing]

Building a Shunting Route Indicator - 進路表示式入換標識

 

Another ongoing project. I need two shunting route indicators like these:

  

 

Toho kindly provides extensive descriptions on their web site (https://www.toho-elc.co.jp)

 

 

I've built a first prototype using photo etching. I'm happy, it starts to look good

 

 

 

 

The first two photos show all "holes" (representing LEDs) open. I have also built a series of masks placed inside the light box, which will allow me the choose the digit to display. Unfortunately, that will be fixed. For now, I have no way to change the indication "live". Even the smallest 0201 LEDs are too large, and there is no way I can fit a small display in there.

 

Marc

 

Edited December 10, 2023 by Madsing
Typos

[cteno4]

Well in the case of the plastic there is probably some channeling of the dispersion that happens so not as drastic as a light in space fades at the inverse square. From the looks of your result it looks like your lines hit the spot for and even dispersion in the acrylic.

 

those are cool. The ATtinys are similar with serial com channel to potentially daisy chain.

 

jeff

[Madsing]

I have finally purchased a 3D printer!

That was at the end of last year already, so I have already spent a few weekends testing and playing with it.

I chose the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra 9k, along with their Mercury XS Bundle, including the washing and curing stations (center and right on the photo).

 

The Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra is a small printer, the maximum build volume is only 153.36 x 77.76 x 165mm, but the resolution is super high: 18μm (that's 0.018mm). This is suitable for me as I will only print small models, but I need them super detailed.

 

First test prints:

A shunting route indicator. I am very happy with the results. The size (diameter) of the smaller details like the ladder is only 0.2mm!

 

 

Signboards

 

 

And an "AMAZING YUKARI" sign (inspired by this one https://www.city.toyama.lg.jp/shisei/seisaku/1010755/1011930.html)

 

 

 

 

[Grant_T]

Awesome stuff. I'm looking at getting a printer too for all the detail stuff on the next layout. This one came up as an option. How hard was it to get your head around the work flow?

[Madsing]

What I have been able to achieve in a few weeks is beyond my expectations. The technology (resin 3D printing) is perfectly suitable for our hobby and this particular printer (the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra 9K) did not disappoint me. This is not a review of that particular model or brand, this is my very first 3D printer so I cannot compare it to others. 

 

But there is definitely a learning curve. Luckily, there are hours of video on Youtube. I watched tons of videos before and after buying, and this has been really helpful. I think these are the main two challenges I have faced:

 

Challenge #1: Handling chemicals, i.e. the resin and the IPA

That was expected. Study how to handle resins and the IPA, buy the necessary bottles, filters, funnels, gloves, masks... beforehand. This is very important. No need to be too scared, just precautious. In addition, I live in an apartment and proper ventilation is an issue. Odours when printing are not too strong but I really cannot stand them, so for now I leave the printer alone in a room when printing, with all doors closed, all windows open and the fan on. Same during cleaning and curing.

 

Challenge #2: Supports

That's a challenge I did not expect. Models must be properly oriented and supported during print (as in the photos above). There is a lot of know-how behind that. Some of my first prints came out very distorted because of the forces that are generated during the printing process. There are things like "suction cups" that I had to learn. I was already familiar with 3D design (I use Autodesk Fusion 360 for several years) but I had to learn how to use the slicer.  The printer came with a license of VoxelDance Tango (https://voxeldance.com/Tango). It's a very good application but after checking around I decided to buy a license of Lychee (https://mango3d.io/lychee-slicer-for-sla-3d-printers/), which is a much more popular and capable application.

 

I still have a lot to learn, that's really what I like.

[Madsing]

On the layout, I use an LED control system that I have described earlier on this forum (see also here: https://shin-yukari.weebly.com/led-controller.html). It is based on Adafruit 12-Channel 16-bit PWM LED Driver modules spread all over the layout. They allow a central computer (a Raspberry Pi in my case) to control the hundreds of LEDs fitting the various buildings.
In addition, I needed a similar control box on my desk. This is a description of the system I have designed.

 

 

It uses the same Adafruit module and exposes the 12 LED outputs on terminal blocks with push-in connection, suitable for temporary connection (no soldering required, no screw).

 

 

Here we see a building "under construction" on my workbench, with its wires attached to the control box.

 

I have designed the PCB in Autodesk Fusion 360. The system is based on an ESP32 microcontroller connected to the Adafruit module and to the various connectors and terminal blocks. The ESP32 exposes a web page used to individually set the brightness of each LED.

 

[Madsing]

First 3D printed building

 

This is my first 3D printed building. I printed it in two parts, the front (facade) and the back.
It is inspired by the Megane Ichiba building in Shibuya 
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/puFJona8UX6jutiG9

 

I took this opportunity to refine the signboards. They are also 3D printed, and I used new 2.7mm Super Slim COB LED Strip Lights to build them. Available here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003193200776.html

 

    

 

 

I have spent a lot of time designing the staircase, but it was not difficult to print. It looks good after being fitted with LED lights.

 

  

 

The facade is a bit intricate. I paid attention to the 3D logo, which has its own (also 3D printed) spotlights.

 

  

 

Each floor has been lighted individually using short LED strips.

 

  

 

 

 

And finally this is the first-floor shop

 

   

 

Edited May 22 by Madsing
Typos

[Madsing]

Finally, this is what it looks like on the layout

 

    

 

  

 

 

 

[cteno4]

Beautiful Marc!
 

Kudos,

 

jeff

[maihama eki]

Outstanding! Love the lighting.

[cteno4]

Marc,

 

@Madsing have you played with the led cob filament lights? They come in lenghts of 13mm (lighted section) up to 30cm+. Looks to be around 1.5-2mm in diameter. They are a set voltage so I’m guessing they must have built in current limiting for the cob leds. It’s a 360 light and bendable so could have some interesting uses. Lots of pretty colors as well! You power thru both ends. Might be fun around the top of a building or up a corner.

 

i grabbed some to play with. 
 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802762320881.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.45ef38daLLzJX3&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

 

jeff

[b.nice2000]

WOW, really nice work.. Well done  🙂

[Madsing]

19 hours ago, cteno4 said:

@Madsing have you played with the led cob filament lights?

 

No, I don’t have any, but I will order a few, good idea, thanks 🙏 

 

Marc

 

[Madsing]

Building a TMC400A

A few years ago, I purchased this kit from World Kougei
プラシリーズ Nゲージ TMC400A モーターカー 組立キット

https://world-kougei.com/SHOP/6044380.html

 

It's a mixed ABS resin / photo-etched parts kit. It didn't look too difficult to assemble.
I started by doing some research about the prototype and found quite a number of photos and videos online. I was immediately attracted by the Totetsu white/yellow/grey livery, photos are available here:

https://mcdb.sub.jp/forums/topic/fhi_tmc400a_43_東鉄_4012/

 

I also found a video showing operation with two locomotives, and several sets of headlights and alert lights flashing. I decided to try to reproduce that scene.

 

 

 

That's what the kit looks like.

 

I started by applying an undercoat of Tamiya 87044 Fine Surface Primer for plastic and metal (white), on the photo-etched and resin parts. That seemed to give a good result, but as I will describe later, during the assembly the paint started to peel off from the photo-etched parts. That has been a huge issue. I usually use Tamiya 87061 Metal Primer, which works very well, I should have sticked to this one for this project too.

 

 

 

Gluing the parts was supposed to be easy, but proved very difficult at first. I tried Tamiya 87182 Extra Thin Cement, which didn't work at all. Of course the Tamiya Craft Bond works but it is very thick, very slow to dry and not very strong. I ended up using standard CA glue, which works well but is too fast, no time to adjust the parts... Next time I will try Tamiya 87137 Cement for ABS.

 

Painting white and grey worked quite well. I then looked for the perfect yellow for the project. I tried AK11046 Radiant Yellow, AK11047 Lemon Yellow and AK11049 Fluorescent Yellow from AK-Interactive. These bottles include dispensers and the paint is ready to use with a brush or airbrush. I decided to go with AK11047 Lemon Yellow.

 

 

 

I cut, weathered and pasted small rectangles of AE03 Metal plate anti-slip 90 for the sides.

https://www.finemolds.co.jp/www/list/listetc.htm

That was not too difficult to make and this is a nice improvement to the model. However, this made attaching the side fences much more difficult as I had to drill new holes for them.

 

 

[Madsing]

I then started to experiment with LEDs for the various headlights. The plan was to make a small DCC decoder with 5 LED outputs, and connected the LEDs to it. 0402 Warm White LEDs for the head and tail main lights. 0201 White LEDs for the side lights. Various 0402 orange LEDs for the alert lights. I installed a total of 12 LEDs, and ended up with an unmanageable web of wires... impossible to solder to the DCC decoder.

I then decided to make another PCB just to manage the connection to the LEDs. That proved a good idea, but the whole thing is still very difficult to assemble and very fragile. Not recommended.

 

 

This is a photo of the EM13 decoder connected to the motor.

 

Anyway, I pushed through and made it work. So I now have 3 PCBs in this tiny cabin. The EM13 for the motor, the self-made DCC decoder for the lights, and another PCB right below the roof for connecting the LEDs. That's very difficult to manage. As I fell in love with that locomotive, I am now planning to redo it (next month, next year, or next life).

• The motor decoder is not necessary, the locomotive does not run well at low speed anyway, it would require at least a flywheel and a keep-alive.
• I plan to redo the lamp DCC decoder to fit it right under the roof and solder most of the SMD LEDs directly on the PCB, using 3D printed light pipes. That would hopefully make the wiring much more manageable.

These are some photos and a short video of the locomotive on my layout.

 

 

 

 

 

[bc6]

Wow Im amazed how you managed to cram all those electronics into such a tight space. I have a Kiya97 produced by World Kogei that Im thinking about putting lights into this gives me some hope lol.

Edited December 1 by bc6

[Pashina12]

I just discovered this thread, and I have no words. Phenomenal work.

[Kingmeow]

10 hours ago, Madsing said:

I ended up using standard CA glue, which works well but is too fast, no time to adjust the parts... Next time I will try Tamiya 87137 Cement for ABS.

 

Just found this thread!  If CA works well but the standard stuff is too fast, you can try thick CA which sets slower.  There's CA- (thin), CA (regular), and CA+ (thick).  Despite its name, it's thicker but not really thick.

[Tony Galiani]

Stunning work.  Just wonderful!

I could not even fully assemble the cab on my World Kogei shunter (thankfully they provide a spare) never mind do anything as complex as that!  

Cheers,

Tony

[chadbag]

Wouldn't getting a micro motor decoder like a Zimo or other very small one work better than the EM13?  I know you said you didn't really need a motor decoder but ignoring that for now...  Seems you could get it out of the cab.

 

These are the kind of projects and goals I like...  To see how you can make things work that most would throw their hands up on...

[Madsing]

@chadbag Yes, I am planning (when?) to spend some time testing the performance of various decoders. Until recently I didn’t see the point, but I now have several aspects that I’d like to evaluate more particularly:

• BEMF and (ultra) low speed stability
• Availability of stay-alive / keep-alive
• (Railcom)

Marc