drt7uk Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Hi folks can I get your advice? Any tips on how to repair a faulty turnout switch/point? When I flick the switch lever attached to my controller, the rails (that switch track) barely move one way or another. There's no issue with the wiring up to the turnout, as the new turnout works fine. What might be causing the rails not to move freely? Could it be that the bit of copper wire inside doesn't have enough tension/spring? For the time being I've just replaced, but if I can repair I'm sure it won't be long before I find a use for it. So any advice or tips gratefully received! Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 It sounds like maybe a part has slipped out of place inside the point. UsuallY means opening it up and fiddling with it. Is it a #4 or #6? somewhere on the forum I remember (maybe @inobu) posting a nice set of photos of a Kato point disassembly. can you flip the point manually well? Did you inspect closely for any little piece of grit getting caught around the blades? I had one once that got a chunk of foam scenery material Fowler up under a blade and restricted its movement. I’ll search around and see if I can find the pictures on the forum. cheers jeff Link to comment
inobu Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Here is one of the images This is what I think happens. See the 3 solder joints. The coil wire is insulated and clear. You have no real way of knowing if the insulation is removed so there could be no contact. I had a problem cross over which would fire really weak. I resoldered the coil wire an it started firing like normal. Some will use a lighter to burn the insulation off the magnet wire. Clean it and resolder it. Inobu 1 2 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Thanks inobu, I though you had mentioned something similar in the past! on #6 I kind of remember one not moving much with either physical or solenoid throw and I think it was that little piece of wire that puts tentsion on the mechanism had slipped loose or the finger of the lever that pushes against the wire had slipped off the wire. But it’s men many moos since I’ve had to pop open a point so but foggy. cheers jeff Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 23 minutes ago, inobu said: That's the inside of a double crossover? Or a single crossover? It looks simpler than I feared it might. I haven't opened one yet myself. Link to comment
inobu Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 They all have the same basic mechanics just mirrored. Inobu Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Single crossover is basically #4 guts like the double is, correct? jeff Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Yeah, but the devil is in the details. Link to comment
inobu Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Yes, it seem that its the same base with half the components. Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Do you have a picture of a double crossover. I'm curious what the lever/push rod mechanism looks like. Link to comment
drt7uk Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 Thanks for your help guys. I think I've fixed it - I think oil or some dirt was trapped in the part highlighted, which was stopping it going fully one way or the other. I carefully took this whole part of the mechanism apart, and cleaned it all up. Reassembled, it seems to be working pretty well, sliding freely. 1 Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 That’s great. Glad you worked it out! 1 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Great! That’s exactly were the piece of ground foam was in the one I had issues with movement. jeff 1 Link to comment
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