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What track do you use, and why?


CaptOblivious

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CaptOblivious

This one's for kuletungeb, welcome!

 

I use Tomix FineTrack.

 

I'll start with the downside:

cons:

*have to import it from japan

*very little in English to help you figure out what all the different pieces are and how they work together (links forthcoming)

*could be a better variety of straight turnouts

 

pros:

*as bulletproof as sectional track gets

*huge variety of kinds of pieces, including curved turnouts and double-slips

*most common sections come wooden tie and concrete slab (shinkansen) varieties

*the integrated roadbed is attractive, but it's also unobtrusive enough that you can ballast over it to improve the look

*even after importing from Japan, the price is competitive with other lines, including Kato and Atlas.

*you can insert a feeder anywhere you like; there is no special feeder track.

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Martijn Meerts

I use Finetrack because I liked the roadbed better than Unitrack.

 

My choices were limited to Finetrack and Unitrack, because I was told some trains might have problems with turnouts of other track manufacturers. I know that Minitrix and Fleischmann turnouts for example aren't the best manufactured ones, so to me it sounded quite likely that there could eventually be issues.

 

I will be using flex-track for Tokyo Station for example, because even though Tomix has a large selection, it will be impossible to work something like Tokyo Station out without flex track ;)

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Darren Jeffries

I use Peco Flexitrack (or will do when i get my layout restarted). I like the flexibility, but granted it might not be good for the beginner.

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Great question. I chose Altas code 80 flex-track for two reasons:

1-the cost it was about almost 1/3 of the price of Peco flex-track (and easier to come by in the USA) Kato Unitrack for the amount I needed was just too high a price.

2-Due to the size of my layout I have various radii so flex-track was the best way to go. I could create any radius I needed.

*But some modelers have told me that you can cut the Kato Unitrack to get the radius you need but I don't see how this would work?

 

Some additional comments:

 

Most of my train bridges are Kato double track bridges and they interlock with flex-track Peco & Altas with no problem.

 

The majority of my turnouts are Peco. I replaced most of the Altas turnouts with the Pecos, they are are more expensive than the Altas but well worth it. I've never had a problem with them whereas I can't say the same for the Altas.

 

If I could do it over a again what would I do differently?

I would experiment with code 55, I really was tempted at first to go code 55 but my LHS (which is Trainland, NY as advertised in Model RR a very big retailer of trains) told me that the I would have problems with older trains on code 55 and the Shinkensans would "fly off the track". I have to admit I like the look of codee 55. Next time I'll test it before making a final decision. 

 

I would go with Peco flex-track or try Micro engineering. I do have some Peco on my layout and I prefer shaping the radius I need with Peco rather than Atlas. With the Peco I believe you can get cement tires. The biggest problem is getting that much Peco track from overseas or from a retailer in the USA.

 

BUT in the case of a beginner, go with either Tomix Finetrack or Kato Unitrack. Either is real quality track and easy to use. With flex-track you are going to have to solder the joins and feeder wires.

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kuletungeb

Thanks for the topic. Ive decided on Tomix finetrack. Now i need to decide on what train to get ??? Is it possible to use Kato trains on finetrack? If so which one is better for making trains? Any track sets you would reccomend? Anything i should know about DC and DCC? Sorry for the questions.

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Martijn Meerts

Again, it really depends on what you like. All trains run fine on Finetrack, but some trains will require a minimum radius. For example, shinkansen usually want a minimum radius of 280 (Tomix) and 317-ish (Kato). They WILL often run on tighter curves, but there is a chance they'll derail.

 

As for which trains to get, well, I would suggest you buy what you think looks good. Kato, Tomix and MicroAce are very similar quality wise. MicroAce tends to make the best running steam locomotives, although they have the motor visible inside the driver's cab. Kato is slowly trying to get rid of the visible motor, but their early attempts are supposedly not very good.

 

For a good, solid runner, you could for example see if you can find a Tomix DD51. It's a multi-purpose diesel locomotive, and there are hundreds of them in Japan. They're used for pretty much any type of trains including freight, passenger and even snow plow service. If you want a full trainset, you could go for a 500 series, they're always good to look at, but I believe it may be difficult to get all the extra cars for one, as no one is manufacturing them right now. You could also go for a 700N, both Tomix and Kato recently released one, with many people preferring the Kato.

 

In the end though, just go through some online stores, and see what type of trains you like. It's hard to make suggestions if we don't know what you like ;)

 

As for the DC and DCC thing. DCC will allow you to control multiple trains on the same layout independently from each other. It'll also allow for computer control, and many other advanced topics like full block control and shadow stations etc. The downside is that very few Japanese prototype trains come with DCC decoders, so you need to install them yourself. Depending on the train, it can be quite a challenge.

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Does anyone have a photo of Kato Unitrack and Tomix Fine track to compare the two?

Since I use flex-track with openings between ties, it is easier to fill that area with ballast. How do you ballast Unitrack and/or Fine track since there is only a slight indentation between ties?

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Martijn Meerts

I could take a picture when I get home. Generally though, the Unitrack looks more plastic than Finetrack. Finetrack wouldn't look entirely out of place in a scenic'ed layout where you don't use extra ballast.

 

As for how to ballast it, very carefully ;) It depends on what color ballast you want to have. Obviously if you use grey ballast, it's not very critical, but if you use brown you need to be really careful. You can of course also paint the existing ballast between the ties before adding your own.

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kuletungeb

I would also like to ask about the various typers of couplers between the trains. What trains roughly have which ones.

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Martijn Meerts

Couplers vary per brand and train, they like to experiment ;)

 

On most locomotives and car sets you'll find standard arnold couplers, on shinkansen there's a variety of specialty couplers. Couplers of the various brands aren't compatible with each other except for the arnold couplers. In most cases, couplers can be replaced.

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I use a mix of Kato Unitrack and Atlas Snap-track. Just to defeat the purpose of Unitrack, I've also soldered feeds to the unijoiners, and will ballast the whole works. I've also painted the ties grey, because Unitrack comes with black ties which look wrong, at least for Tokyo.

 

Were I to do it again, I would probably go for Atlas Snap-track/flex track. Then again, I have so much spre Unitrack I could probably make another layout just with the spares.

 

I probably shouldn't have changed my plans halfway through. . .

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alpineaustralia

I hate to admit it, but that is the same with me and so Unitrack suits me with one exception - some tracks when connected ar higher than others resulting in de-rails at the points at which tracks connect. Do you have this problem?

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Martijn Meerts

I came across another disadvantage of Tomix track. No double crossover for the small tram-turnouts.

 

(Means I need to mutilate 4 of them and actually build my own double crossovers should I start building tram modules ;))

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In response to uneven Unitrack, check the joiners, you might need to replace it.  Also, check whether the track is put on a smooth surface.

 

I am using Unitrack all the way since it is versatile and more available in North America.

 

I never had a contact problem with Unitrack vs. Atlas, Bachmann....

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I was going to create a new thread but I found this one, so I'll just resurrect this one.

 

I am going to buy track soon, and I am going with either Unitrack or Finetrack. Need some help on deciding ....

Does finetrack really look better than unitrack?

On the picture posted by Bryan (conceptmodeltrain) in the "introduction thread" (http://www.mmts.com.au/train_layouts/metro/IMGP1972.jpg), does that look like Unitrack or Finetrack?

 

I am thinking of not doing my own ballast on my layout... cause i learned from my last project (which was never finished) that  doing everything to perfection just takes too long and the project gets abandoned. So I am taking shortcuts anywhere I can, at least for this project  ;D

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Serenityfan - If you don't mind, how about starting a new thread with your track plan? It might be interesting to see how it develops. When I first started my Bullet train layout I drew up a lot of configurations on what I wanted to do and listed all the aspects that were important to me:

1-Continuous running with 2-4 main lines

2-A yard for staging trains

3-All passenger trains

4-DCC control, and my list went on....

 

I was a few years ago when I did this and at first I was afraid to post my layout plan at the forum I belonged to at the time but I was glad I did. One of the members looked at my plan and suggested another way of designing my yard where I could store 4 times more trains and it would be easier to access the main lines from the yard.

Just I thought.

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