Kiran Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I am going to get this DE10 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10682348. It sounds like the DE10 decoder installation is rather complicated according to http://www.sumidacrossing.org/ModelTrains/ModelTrainDCC/DCCDE10Kato/. I wonder if the newer DE10 has the same challenges or does anyone know if Kato made any changes to the tooling? Is there room for Loksound micro and a speaker or am I asking for too much? Link to comment
chadbag Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I don't know if they are using the same internal design or not (I suspect they are). @Sheffie I believe has the 2-DE10 set that this one is part of??? And might be able to show us the internals? However, I suspect in any case you won't find room for a speaker without lots of milling etc in the cast body parts. Link to comment
katoftw Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Pretty sure is just takes a plug and play decoder. Link to comment
chadbag Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 9 minutes ago, katoftw said: Pretty sure is just takes a plug and play decoder. The sumida crossing shows a drop-in but some milling needed to make it fit since the light board being replaced has fewer components on it it sticking up or down. Link to comment
Madsing Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 My DE10 (Kato 7011-2) is fitted with a Digitrax DN163K4A. No milling required (there are no components on the lower side of the decoder), pretty straightforward to install, just make sure to properly isolate it from the frame. 1 Link to comment
chadbag Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 I'll have to see how easy my TCS equivalent drops in. I have a KATO DE10 and should have a TCS K1D4 of some sort to try. Thanks. Link to comment
chadbag Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 So I tried to upgrade my DE10 (7011-2) with a TCS K1D4 (not the NC version). The regular (non NC) version has two soldered brass "wings" that replace the removable clips to attach to the motor. I had to cut them down to be a similar size to the clips so that they would fit. I isolated the frame and motor to avoid shorts with the board but I must have missed something as I think I shorted out the decoder. I was never able to read from it or get it to work. I spent way to long re-isolating things etc before I gave up. I will attack this problem again at some point in the future. I have a few more K1D4 decoders 🙂 (The K1D4 is compatible with the Digitrax DN163K4A in size and layout) Link to comment
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