Old Tyco Pak 4 Controller

[James-SNMB]

I impulsively picked up an old Tyco Pak 4 dual throttle controller the other day, probably against my own better judgement... I'm visiting my parents and dug out my old Bachman HO brass track and "Made in Yugoslavia" locomotive to test it out. It works, but it's hard to say how well it runs trains given the oldequipment I was using for the test.

 

Does anyone know anything about these old packs? I found it listed here at the bottom of the list: http://tycotrain.tripod.com/tycobrownboxactioncarsandaccessories/id96.html

 

Interestingly, I also picked up an MRC tech 2 2800, and the control knobs are exactly the same on the Tyco pack. Any chance that MRC made these power packs for TYCO? The Pak 3 listed on the link above sure looks like the old gold MRC, though I haven't found a comprehensive list of old MRC products to see if they had a matching dual throttle. The 12 volt DC output rating made me think this would be good for running my n scale trams, but it's an old pack so I'm not sure it's a good idea.

 

At any rate, my real question is how much buyer's remorse should I have? I was going to use it to power my tram line. Should I be wary of using this older Tyco pack for my nice new Kato equipment? Is there a risk of frying anything?

 

It's cool looking with the big metal case, and it's in great shape with no rust at the terminals or anything. It's also got a fixed 12v DC output, so worst case I can use it to run some lights, but mostly I'm asking myself what I was thinking when I decided to buy it... At least I got the Tech 2 for a good price to make me feel better...

[cteno4]

Should be fine, plain old dc throttle. Those tycos with the knobs do look awfully close to old mrc packs, but visual memory makes me feel they are a bit different — but I used those old mrcs like 40 years ago! Many throttles in those days had the same box with 2 knobs on top or the slanted front box style and were gold bronze or black!
 

shouldn’t fry anything as any pwm was done then as “pulse power” switch otherwise it was straight dc wave and voltage done off a rheostat old school.

 

jeff

[chadbag]

It is probably more reliable than the plastic low-bidder Chinese stuff of today...

 

[James-SNMB]

Thanks @chadbag and @cteno4! I appreciate that reassurance! Wouldn't want to break anything expensive while trying to save a few dollars on a power pack. Mostly its the stigma of the old Tyco brand that had me apprehensive, given the low quality of their "toy" trains. 

 

When I get home I'll test it out with a loco and see how it compares to the MRC 2800 and 1300s I have. I suspect the older Tyco won't have as good control at super low speeds, but that won't matter for what I'm doing. For what it's worth I couldn't really tell the  difference between the Tyco  and the MRC tech 2 with that old grindy, lurchy Bachman motor (and that was sadly my best HO loco from my childhood) But that isn't saying much. It looks and feels solid, so there's hope!

[chadbag]

Before you run your precious trains on it, put a meter on it and manipulate it through the complete range for a while (a scope would be better but most people have a meter but not a scope). Just to make sure the output is really what it says and what you expect.

 

[James-SNMB]

7 hours ago, chadbag said:

Before you run your precious trains on it, put a meter on it and manipulate it through the complete range for a while (a scope would be better but most people have a meter but not a scope). Just to make sure the output is really what it says and what you expect.

 

Thanks, good call.

 

I've read through the sumidacrossing post about DC controllers, and it definitely sounds like the actual output and listed output can vary. A multimeter will be cheap insurance and something I've been meaning to get for a while anyway.

[chadbag]

Also, being older, if the output looks "dirty" or otherwise not what is expected, etc., being older, you can probably give it a good blast of old fashioned electrical contact cleaner...

 

Older items are made with real pots, swipers, etc.  Not all the fancy ICs of today 🙂

 

[Welshbloke]

I know old (as in 1950s-70s) controllers in the UK tend to be a bit rough as they were made for the chunky motors of the era. Running your lump-of-whitemetal kitbuilt locos from the 60s on your H&M Duette will work nicely. Trying to run a modern loco with a far lower current draw and finer control needs...won't. It won't harm it but starting may be a bit abrupt. Likewise your Kato power unit will get a bit warm running the same kitbuilt loco!