al camino Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Hi Dies anyone know the exact plastic type Tomix used for their kit? At least the truck (bogie) runner is not PS or ABS. The same impression to me has runner C (ladder, grabs, handrails, hose). I am asking because i's like to select the best cement (glue) to build my remaining 5 unassembled cars. Car #1 assembled around 20-22 years ago falls apart as the glue did not do the requested job on the plastics. Many thanks for helping. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Al, wonder if it’s a polyethylene. Is it a bit softer? Finding the right cement can be a puzzle. I use chunks of the sprews to just test glues I have laying around. ive recently tried this glue system on a non abs/bs (im pretty sure polyethylene) clip on the big dog food bin that got snapped in two. Epoxy and ca popped off it in a test, but this stuff did it! It’s gets a lot of lateral stress when it’s closed. Luckily long sort of ragged snap so it was the best surface to join. You basically run the marker along one side of the joint and then apply the cement to the other piece and let sit for 30 sec or so then press fit. It seemed to bond in a minute and they suggest a day or two to fully cure. The cement is a ca and the activator is n-heptane. But it was able to bond polyethylene which is usually not so fun! https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System-2g-Super-Glue-681925/100371829 e6000 is also a goto glue for adhering bits anything to most anything. But it’s not super tough and it’s a tad flexible, but it sticks well to things others don’t bond to for some hold. jeff Link to comment
Claude_Dreyfus Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 (edited) I used brush-on plastic weld on my H0-700 tankers. It's very effective, but quite brutal and unforgiving if you make a mistake. https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/plastic-weld-glue-57ml/?gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTZ1DrZ6QmVIItFapvMvQnzminRg7rr38GJXQP3OrD_AIlqHUleo_GBoCa1cQAvD_BwE Use an old brush that doesn't matter...it will die... Edited June 22, 2020 by Claude_Dreyfus 1 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 That must mean all the parts are abs or ps. jeff Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 It may be worth looking into canopy glue, its slow drying but bonds well with dissimilar parts and is pretty forgiving, you can even remove it later with a bit of work. Its also somewhat flexable so its great for securing handrails and stuff that might get bumped. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Yeah that why the e6000 is nice that it dries a bit flexible as well for those situation. jeff Link to comment
Kanpai Keith Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 (edited) Both ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and PS (Polystyrene) are amorphous polymers and will accept paints and styrene based adhesive readily. Polyolefins such as Polypropylene and Polyethylene are semi-crystalline as are solvent resistant. your best bet would be to try cyanoacrylate adhesive and rough up both surfaces a little first and apply an etch (acid) primer before gluing. Edited August 22, 2020 by Kanpai Keith Link to comment
Kamome Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 On 6/23/2020 at 2:35 AM, al camino said: Dies anyone know the exact plastic type Tomix used for their kit? Did you manage to find something suitable? I’m about to start putting together my Taki 1900s so would appreciate your input. The instructions state using an adhesive suitable for soft plastic or rubber. Link to comment
al camino Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 (edited) Hi all This week my parcel with monthly shipping of reserved items arrived. The 2 sets of TOMIX タキ1900 are now mine and here. First test was with my liquid Revell plastic glue (mainly styrene = PS). It worked but very weak solving the Tomix plastic. I now assume it is ABS as is used with a lot of model railroad items. For example all KATO shells are made of ABS. A fresh bought UHU PLAST (for PS, ABS, SAN, SB, ASA, PVC, PMMA and PC) proved to be perfect for all runners except trucks and handrails. The trucks and handrails were made of engineering plastic (POM, PA, PP or such) and need super glue. I hope sharing this information is useful for all. Edited September 12, 2020 by al camino typo Link to comment
Kamome Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 Thanks Camino, I have started building my tankers too and found some Tamiya cement for ABS so I can at least get the body assembly under way. The recycling information on the back of the box states the materials used rather than on the instructions for some reason. The generic information of using an adhesive for soft plastic and rubber was extremely vague and of little help. Body - ABS, POM Frame - POM Wheels - BS The Tamiya ABS cement works well but it’s a little gloopy and the supplied applicator brush is way too big for more detailed work like this. It takes a while to cure so plenty of time to adjust parts but initial bonded parts seem very strong. 2 Link to comment
al camino Posted September 14, 2020 Author Share Posted September 14, 2020 On 9/13/2020 at 1:58 AM, Kamome said: Body, Frame - ABS Handrails - POM Truck (bogie) Frames - POM Wheels - BS Updated the table by my observation. The glue solved the body frame as with the other body parts. --> ABS The Handrail runner did not react in any way to the glue. --> POM What stand BS for? Link to comment
Kamome Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Usually I know BS as bulls**t. I’m assuming a typo and should read PS or could be a Japanese abbreviation to another type of plastic. But that threw me too! Link to comment
al camino Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 Meanwhile I thought that BS is typo of PS. I also realized now that the HS page offered a material note common to most of Tomix HO stuff. The PS makes sense to me for the windows of passenger cars, EMU, DMU etc. This seems to be a confirmation of our observation. (I hope this screen shot does not violate the rules) 1 Link to comment
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