Tomix Numbers for self attaching

[Kamome]

I’ve found the cloudy type Scotch Tape which seems to be called Mending Tape (メンディングテープ) works very well for the job of dry rub decals. You cut out the decal and then put the tape over the top to pick it up with it’s backer. As the tape is semi-transparent, you can position the decal easily. The tape then comes off very cleanly. You can get a small roll with plastic dispenser from Daiso.

[roadstar_na6]

Thank you very much, @railsquid. I will give it a try tomorrow and report back.

 

For "cleaning" you basically just tapped it with the sticky mass a few times? No liquids involved?

[railsquid]

2 minutes ago, roadstar_na6 said:

Thank you very much, @railsquid. I will give it a try tomorrow and report back.

 

For "cleaning" you basically just tapped it with the sticky mass a few times? No liquids involved?

 

Yup, just tap/roll a very small amount over the target area, seems to be quite effective and no liquids to spill.

[railsquid]

15 minutes ago, Kamome said:

I’ve found the cloudy type Scotch Tape which seems to be called Mending Tape (メンディングテープ) works very well for the job of dry rub decals. You cut out the decal and then put the tape over the top to pick it up with it’s backer. As the tape is semi-transparent, you can position the decal easily. The tape then comes off very cleanly. You can get a small roll with plastic dispenser from Daiso.

 

 

Nice idea, I see a trip to Daiso in the near future 😄

[cteno4]

Yep that’s the same scotch “magic” tape I use for positioning.

 

you don’t need to push all the tape down, I just touch the burnisher to the tape gently in 4 places around the transfer to hold it in place.

 

also fold the ends of the tape over just a bit as it gives you a non sticky Tab to maneuver the tape with your fingers or tweezers easily and not jerk it out of place trying to get them unstuck. The folded ended also help keep the whole piece of tape from sucking down onto the model. Then gives you a tab to easily start to gently pull up the tape and transfer backing from one end. Tape is thin but does make the burnishing a tad harder. But worth it as some of the sheets have stuff very close together and then you also can end up touching the other transfers a lot.

 

beware not to put tape down on top of any other dry transfers already down near the one you are putting down as it will peel them up! That’s actually how to pull off dry transfers!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[roadstar_na6]

Okay I managed to put on the first one, tapped it a few times with Tesa film and then aligned the decal with some masking tape and rubbed it on with a rounded but pointy dental tool.

However every time I lifted the transfer sheet one or two pieces were still attached to it and I had to re-apply force to keep them on. While doing this the transfer paper lost alignment a little and the letters didn‘t go on as straight as I had hoped them to do 😞

 

 

I‘ll let it sit for a while and the do the other side. Hopefully that‘ll turn out better 😄

[roadstar_na6]

And the other one down as well:

 

What a PITA this is, I was about to cry.. Took out a hair dryer to give it a little heat to stick better and after that I could finally peel off the transfer sheet without all letters still attached to it. I hope I‘ll never have to do this again 😕

 

I had one down perfectly when I peeled up the transfer sheet but in the final split second the E decided to jump back onto the masking tape and when I tried to re-align it the outer ring of the Seibu logo also re-attached itself to the transfer sheet. I had to toss the entire decal and am now out of E854 decals anyway.. So this is how it‘s gonna stay now. Not 100% happy with it but yeah. I‘ll stick with plastic number boards 😄
 

And getting rid of the extra residue from the transfer sheet is also really annoying and hard. Now with that experience made I feel like I should have kept the decals off..

Edited June 12, 2020 by roadstar_na6

[Kamome]

I always had the same issue with masking tape as it has a tendency to shift. The Scotch tape attaches to the surface much better and you can lift it from one side so keep alignment if any parts don’t rub off properly.

[roadstar_na6]

That‘s what I wanted to do with it @Kamome but the tape I used (washi-tape actually) wasn‘t really working together but rather against the transfer sheet sometimes. It did keep a bit of alignment but I had to rub so hard to even make the decals stick that I probably messed it up a little only due to that. It really confuses me how others give the decals a gentle rub and they stay on whereas I had to basically put my whole body‘s weight into rubbing it since gentle rubbing and even a little force didn‘t do a thing 😞

[railsquid]

I wonder if the decal sheet has deteriorated due to age? The ones I put on the other day were surprisingly easy to do.

[disturbman]

It requires a bit of practice but nowadays I put the rub-ons without cutting the sheet into smaller pieces. I find it easier for holding and positioning.

The best tool I ever found is the back tip of a pair tweezers. It's relatively small and has a tip that is slightly pointy and round, which makes possible to apply pressure precisely. You can usually see when the rub-on had been transferred from the sheet to the shell as the part adhering to the shell has a different "color" than the ones that does not. Its contours are less perceptible, or dark.

As railsquid mentioned, it might be that your sheet as deteriorated. They normally do not require a crazy amount of force to apply. Gentle force. I messed up a few of the first I ever applied, but if need be, there are easy to remove.

[cteno4]

Yeah washi tape is way to thick to try to effectively rub thru and also smushie. The scotch tape is clear and thin and transfers to pressure well.

 

sounds like the transfers’ adhesive was just dried up. Or it could have gotten a good greasy finger on it at one point that can hurt them.

 

but you got it on! Might think of sealing those down they are right where you may put your fingers to pick it up and the adhesive sounds like I was not in good shape to boot.

 

jeff

[roadstar_na6]

I‘ll probably try applying other decals again, squid offered me to send his over to me.

 

I didn‘t put the tape on top of it but just on the sides to keep it in place 😄 I‘ll have to see what alternatives I have or can get a hold of and if there‘s anything better to find for rubbing them on.

For now I‘ll just let them be and see if they‘ll fall off sometime soon.

[cteno4]

Ok cool! See if you can find some of that clear scotch tape, seems to look the same a world around! It’s thin and clear. Washi does work well to just hold in place as comes up well.

 

you should not have to rub hard. I do a first pass transfer it, then a second harder pass to stick it down well.

 

good experiment here to see of it sticks! Good on ya squid for sending some replacements.
 

Ruboff can be cranky at times. In grad school a had a bunch go bad on me (like $100 worth of lettering sets, they were not cheap). Then I noticed sort of oily spots on them and was thinking of returning them to the printer for a replacement. Then I spotted a post doc working on his figures for a paper while eating his lunch and not using the linen gloves! Tuna salad grease all over them! Hans was kinda the lab slob, should have figured.

jeff

 

[roadstar_na6]

Isn‘t that scotch tape basically the same as Tesa film? If not I guess I‘ll need Scotch Magic Matte No.810 tape, right?

 

For now I‘ve ordered some dotting tools, maybe the finest will be able to help me get pressure on just the lettering and not the whole transfer sheet 😄

Edited June 12, 2020 by roadstar_na6

[cteno4]

Hugh never seen tesa, it may not be in the us. This looks to be the thicker type clear tape from what little I could see if it, but no good picture

 

the scotch magic or mending tape looks a tad opaque when it’s loose but goes pretty clear when down. It’s pretty thin and has a matte surface not a glossy clear of other transparent tapes. The main thing is it’s very thin and pretty flexible since thin and it’s not super tacky and does not seem to leave behind much of any stickum residue. Some of the transparent tapes are thicker and have very tacky adhesive that does not come up easily and can leave behind some sticky residue in some situations.

 

jeff

 

 

[roadstar_na6]

Thanks Jeff, I‘ll order some then and see how it works.

 

yeah, Tesa is very tacky and gloss

[cteno4]

Yeah trick with using the tape is a gentle hold so it can come up easily and smoothly. Like using painters or drafting tape compared to duct tape!

 

jeff

[nah00]

On 6/10/2020 at 8:24 AM, railsquid said:

 

So do the EF210 and EF510, come to think of it, at least the ones I have, though more recent releases seem to have plastic plates.

 

My EF210 came with transfers. Let me tell you how fun it is to get the ones on the rounded off nose to go on right. Luckily both of my EF510s were plastic plates.