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Marklin of sweeden has some interesting scenery videos (the guy is a character as well). One which I saw was quite a good tutorial on water using toilet paper and glue for the base. Good painting and finishing tutorial in there as well.

 

jeff

 

 

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That looks great!   Having read many a water-making article and seen a number of tutorial vids over the years, this one really grabbed me.   We just watched it an will very likely use this technique.  Will poke through his other vids later too.

 

Plus, we'll get to channel the Swedish Chef and say "Bork, bork, bork" a lot when we make water.
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I love how just moving the tp around in the glue just turns it into a fiber Mush that forms well into waves! 
 

Yes the layers of gloss coat work well. I much prefer this than trying to pour resin!

 

jeff

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AhmadKane

Actually I've been trying his method. If you watched his latest one on the waterfall, you'd see he made some changes. For example, he clearcoated the rocks surrounding the water surface too. And for the waterfall, he used fibres in the back to replicate the foam and depth of the waterfall. 

 

I'm still waiting for my glue to dry and will be adding some coats later. I'll update you on how it went. One thing for sure, if you'd like a darker and muddy water, get solvent. I'm using solvent base for my paddy fields. They work wonders

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Yeah it was funny as I saw this totally by accident this weekend on YouTube while watching something bill sent me and this popped up. Had it marked to post here then saw your post yesterday using his waterfall technique. Love youtube for this stuff, just about anything mechanical or creative like this someone has gotten frustrated with and once solved is nice enough to share! Others get into teaching nicely like marklinofsweeden. When trying to change one of my car interior air filters I could not for the life of me figure out one last catch holding it in place. Well it was completely hidden, I had myself upside down and head pushed into the opening to try to see what was going on, used my phone and a flashlight to try to record it, nothing. Finally went on YouTube and a chap did a a nice video using an endoscope to show the catch you had to push with a fingertip down a very narrow slot. Once you knew where it was bingo! I guess it’s to get you to take it to the dealers to pay $40 to replace a $5 filter... wanted to send the dude a beer!

 

Curious to know what does the solvent based clear coat do differently than water based for the darker water.. for darker water you just don’t need to do as many coats or use as glossy a finish as you just have a little surface gloss and don’t see very far into the muddy water.

 

cheers

 

jeff

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AhmadKane

So for the paddy field I've tried two methods. One if I coat twice using a brush, the other where I coat once and pour a bit. 

 

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What's good is that it has a muddy texture and would definitely help the light paint from the base to become even more murkier. I recommend it for the ricefield, especially in southeast asia, where the water for the rice field is much more warmer than in japan. It would help making pond water, a murky lake, marshes and hot water. It also has a very nice gloss finish, and I'm ready to add the riceplants. 

 

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Now I'm still waiting for the glue in the centre to dry, but overall the gloss and the coloration certainly added some depth to the lake. I was really afraid adding such a dark tint in the center, but the glue seems to lighten the tone a bit. I don't know how many more layers of varnish should I put, but once the varnish is finished, I'll turf the surrounding ground. 

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AhmadKane

Update:

 

This is the 3rd coat of varnish. 

 

According to Marklinofsweden, the procedure would be Coat, Glue, and Coat 3-4x, now keep in mind he's running an HO Marklin layout, and would naturally have the water glossed to look deeper. Compared to N scale, where the water bodies would need to be colored deeper instead of coating it more. So far so good, I'm impressed with the results, and the dark centre did have a lighter tone. I wish I could show you how glossed up this is, maybe in the morning. Also, check out the gloss in the riverbanks, I'm also impressed with it.

 

Now this is the 2nd coat after glue still drying. The question is, should I coat it once more, twice more, thrice more, or just leave it at that?

 

 

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We'll probably add a painting technique I've used before to good effect — after each lower layer of gloss dries, paint fine lines on top to add extra depth and motion and let that dry before adding the next coat above that.

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AhmadKane
37 minutes ago, Cat said:

We'll probably add a painting technique I've used before to good effect — after each lower layer of gloss dries, paint fine lines on top to add extra depth and motion and let that dry before adding the next coat above that.

 

Add more acrylic paint? sounds good.. 

 

What color tho? You mean like fine white streaks?

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Darker colour streaks down lower (browns work well), getting lighter as they go up (light greens), and finally white along cresting caps.

 

Edited by Cat
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Also need to think about the thickness of the gloss coat on the angle you are looking at the water. If from way above the eye wants to feel like it’s seeing into the water some as you do when flying over water, but at an oblique you really don’t see into the water much at all and it’s doesn’t really look glossy.

 

also distance as usually on n scale we are looking at water 300’ away and it looks different than from 50’ away and how a lot of our mind’s eye remembers it up close more than far away for a lot of things.

 

jeff

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AhmadKane

I know it isn't done but I just HAAAD to take some pics of the gloss results. I've given two additional coats on the river, and 3 on the lake. I also brushed it in a way that you'll see more directions for the waves. 

 

Overall. Yeah, the gloss really works and elevates the toilet paper water. I definitely recommend it. 

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Now I have deep respect for this guy and his creativity to make stuff and his dioramas. There is actually two videos in which he modelled a waterfall, one with arrow dabs on top of a dried Noch water product to create a slower waterfall stream, the other was to incorporate pillow fibres to create a much more dynamic and foamy waterfall. I've pasted the video below if you're interested.

 

 

In correspondence to this. I taken the liberty of adding the fibre waterfall effect. As of this moment I don't know what could be the alternative for the Noch water effect, and I wanted to use Vallejo, if I know which one that could be similar to it. 

 

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But I'd like to show you my method, one that I got by accident. The background was that I mistakenly ordered Vallejo water textures instead. This is only used to squeeze out or drybrush some white water effects, like the one you see in sea waves. Being the fool I am, I ordered that one without knowing what it could do. When I attempted to use the trick like Marklinofsweden, it did not peel off like it should. But somehow, it gave the effect. 

 

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So the procedure was to squeeze in some Vallejo water texture unto some plastic food wraps or a thick plastic packaging for food. Upon squeezing in the Vallejo water effect, I dabbed some pillow fibres unto it. Merging it like thin putty. Then I added some more on top of the fibre and dabbed it. Making it more compact and thinner.

 

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After drying, which is a short time, I glued the fibre unto the area I wanted them to be. After fitting them in, I dabbed some water texture surrounding the entry and exit of the waterfall to increase the foamlike texture. I also dabbed some points in which the varnish would pile up, normally against a structure like a rock. 

 

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This is the result I got. Now couple of things I learnt while experimenting with this concept. Using white glue and fibre doesn't work, the fibre would just continuously tangle unto your paintbrush. Wetting the glue doesn't seem to work either as the fibre must be compact with each other to create a foamy texture. There was an idea to use instead, a shitton of white acrylic paint or any paint that would harden as it dries up. Any white material that dries up and doesn't stick to much may be useful to be dabbed unto the fibre to create a foamy stream of waterfall. 

 

I'm thinking of trying this out with putty, gypsum, grout and other materials. But for now, I think I'm going to be satisfied looking at the waves crashing down.

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Nice. Scenery is one of the most trial and error things to do in the hobby! What works great for someone else can be a disaster in your hands so it’s important to do little tests and experiment to see if it works for you and at times you find surprises like yours here that customizes it to your hands! 
 

best to find what suits you the best for both hands and your eyes afterwards!

 

its also a lot of practice, almost every scenery technique I’ve tried over the decades I’ve screwed up on step (or more) a little doing it the first time or two! Again why I do the test first to learn the screw up spots or where time is critical, or areas you should attempt at once, etc.

 

jeff

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We've been enjoying watching these vids, and are definitely planning on trying the technique out on a small experimental scene.  The fiberfill material should work nicely for making waves breaking in and around tetrapods on the shore; but not necessarily on the first try....

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On 5/7/2020 at 9:54 AM, cteno4 said:

Marklin of sweeden has some interesting scenery videos (the guy is a character as well). One which I saw was quite a good tutorial on water using toilet paper and glue for the base. Good painting and finishing tutorial in there as well.

I like this guy’s channel. As you mentioned he’s quite a character plus he is a good modeller and has a very envy worthy layout. I particularly like his weathering methods which seem pretty easy to do and get good results. His layout also looks to have a good balance of running and yard operations to keep things interesting.

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