On My Workbench

[Kamome]

Nice one, thanks

[Martijn Meerts]

H0j is indeed 'true H0' as IMON calls it, so 1:87 scale on 12mm track. It's not very common, and most models are brass. IMON's ready to run models are built in-house from their kits, which is what makes them so expensive. Of course, the kits themselves are also expensive, but that's because they're not mass-produced either.

 

IMON has started looking into plastic models / kits lately though. I have a few plastic ToRa6000 and WaMu50000. They look good, but obviously have a lot less detail than the brass kits. They're also only 1/10th the price of a brass kit. Going by IMON's upcoming releases list, they're also looking into plastic kits of passenger coaches.

 

In the list that Roadstar linked to, the definition of H0j is incorrect. They say H0j and #16 is the same, but #16 is 1:80 on 16.5mm track, which is what Kato and Tomix H0 is.

 

It's definitely not a scale to model if you want a large layout with lots of rolling stock 😄

 

[marknewton]

That table is incorrect, at least in regards to Japanese HO. My understanding is that HOj is the designation for 1/87th scale models on 12mm gauge track, HO13 is 1/87th scale on 13mm gauge track - a very niche pursuit - and  I know that #16 gauge is 1/80th scale on 16.5mm gauge track, which is the scale I model in. 

 

The World Kogei keiben models I've seen are 1/87th scale on 9mm track, equivalent to HOe or HOn30. The recent Tomix models are, as far as I can tell, 1/80th scale.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

[cteno4]

Not much tonight, assembled this little gundam figure stand I got off ebay for $2. Not using it for futures, but figured it may be a nice little stand for odd items in the paint booth to hold them in position to paint gently. Decent little stand.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[hide7072001]

 Nice to meet you, Mark

 

On 7/14/2020 at 10:06 PM, marknewton said:

HO13 is 1/87th scale on 13mm gauge track - a very niche pursuit

 

I think it's probably your mistake.

HO13, 1/80th scale on 13mm gauge track

There are many people who have been selected over 1/87 12mm, taking advantage of the fact that you can use the existing body.

For example

http://mkr.on.coocan.jp/guide_frame.htm

 

However, the problem is the track.

In 1/87 12mm, you can use the PECO track, but in 13mm track, the only manufacture Shinohara Shokai

who manufacturing various types tracks, closed last year.

For example, from Railgallery Rokko

http://www.railgallery-r.com/n-main_1/02_2A_Rail_Sinohara_3Ext.html

 

This year, IMON decided to manufacture by inheriting molds, manufacturing machines and know-how from Shinohara Shokai.

It will be on the market in the near future.

(From article in TMS April 2020 issue)

 

Your photo plank with catenary is great !!😀

[Martijn Meerts]

I believe the plastic ToRa6000 and WaMu50000 kits are also built using inherited / bought up molds, although not from Shinohara Shokai. There's a blog post about them on Mr. Imon's personal blog: https://train.ap.teacup.com/yoshihiro/399.html (Actually, that blog is well worth visiting for the many interesting photos, both of actual locations, and from models)

 

I did already notice they list more plastic kits coming up in their release schedule, I'm very curious to see the passenger coaches. The brass kits look absolutely great and are fun to build, but they're also really expensive 🙂

 

 

 

 

[marknewton]

On 7/16/2020 at 8:33 AM, hide7072001 said:

I think it's probably your mistake.

HO13, 1/80th scale on 13mm gauge track

You're right, Hide - I'm typing with fat fingers on a small screen! 🤨

 

On 7/16/2020 at 8:33 AM, hide7072001 said:

However, the problem is the track. In 1/87 12mm, you can use the PECO track, but in 13mm track, the only manufacture Shinohara Shokai

who manufacturing various types tracks, closed last year.

I take your point about the track, but I think hand laying track would present less of a challenge for a skilled modeller than narrowing some proprietary 16.5mm gauge models.

 

When I first became interested in modelling Japanese railways I seriously considered doing it in HO13. A bit of research and some experiments soon made me realise that for rolling stock and some EMU and DMU models the conversion would be simple and straightforward. But some other models, such as diesel and electric locos, would not be so easy. And the Kato and Tenshodo steam locos - which were my main interest - would require major modifications that I wasn't willing to do. So I stuck with the compromise of using 16.5mm gauge track. 
 

On 7/16/2020 at 8:33 AM, hide7072001 said:

Your photo plank with catenary is great !

 

Thank you! 
 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[Martijn Meerts]

Received a set of 2 foam cutters from the Hot Wire Foam Factory some days ago after re-confirming that working with foam using a hobby knife is just not fun 😉

 

I cut a couple of pieces of foam for the small stream I want to add to the H0e photo plank, and that worked out rather well. Just waiting now for a hot glue gun to arrive, which has a low temperature setting which apparently works great for gluing foam. Crossing the stream will be a small bridge which is basically just 2 logs with sleepers running across them. I'll probably add some additional logs for support, but it's supposed to look like a temporary bridge. I'll probably also add a small spur that's no longer in use, mainly to do some testing with a turnout and add some visual interest. 

 

Hopefully I can make some progress in the coming days, although the temps are going up towards the 30 Celsius early in the week, and then 36-37 towards and during the weekend. The hobby room will turn into a sauna again 😉

 

[Kamome]

Numbering, clear coating and added crew. Also noticed from the photo of the EF65, the loco number has gradually gone skew, presumably through incorrect handling. Something else to add to the depot‘s  job list.

Edited August 8, 2020 by Kamome

[Martijn Meerts]

So, the hot glue gun arrived a while ago. Of course, last week I put in some extra hours 3 out 5 days at work, which meant working from 8am to around 11-12pm. The other days I needed to recover 😉

 

I did try some rough shaping of the stream bed using the hot wire cutters. I have to say, it requires quite a bit of practice, especially since the shaping cutter I got has a rather thing wire, so you can't easily do negative cuts. Or rather, it requires a bit of effort and patience. It got gradually better, and of course this is just a very rough shape. It's going to be covered with sculptamold and probably some cast rocks (need to get some new molds for that, someone borrowed the ones I had and I can't remember who ;))

 

I gave the bridge idea a try too. It actually looks pretty interesting. I might add some more spacing in between the sleepers. The longer sleepers are for installing a railing, which I'm not sure I'm going to do actually. There will also be some additional support logs in the middle. To the right of the bridge, I'll add a right hand turnout with a small no longer used spur, possible with a broken down shed or at least some old log carts or something along those lines. Of course, the turnout I built to test the Fast Tracks jig was a left hand one. I've also been planning getting a #4 turnout jig as well, so I might wait until I have that one before laying the track.

 

It's all a bit slow going, most of this is new to me, and I still don't have all the necessary tools and materials.

 

[marknewton]

Looks good so far Martijn. My only suggestion is that the bridge should have some simple abutments, rather than just sitting on the ground.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[marknewton]

After all that faffing around with tiny bits of plastic strip, I decided I preferred the way I had made the platform lights originally. So I've pulled them apart and started again. Back to square one, as it were.

 

 

I also assembled the waiting room/platform shelter that I cut out a few weeks back. It also has a light installed, one of those cheap and cheerful surface mount LEDs. Here it's on test. It needs some foil applied above it to stop it shining through the roof. But at least I know it works.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

 

Edited August 16, 2020 by marknewton

[Martijn Meerts]

21 hours ago, marknewton said:

Looks good so far Martijn. My only suggestion is that the bridge should have some simple abutments, rather than just sitting on the ground.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

 

It's actually based off a picture of an actual bridge that was built like this. I will add some supports in the middle though, and the stream won't be as deep as on the picture. I still need to cast some rock faces and then scult-a-mold the hell out of the whole thing. I might make some abutments from some 'logs', not sure yet.

 

I've mostly been researching the spacing in between sleepers / ties, and how long the sections of rail need to be from 1 fish plate to the next. Decided to just use a #6 turnout on this diorama even though it would probably look better with a #4. Considering the H0e jigs aren't in stock by default at Fast Tracks, they'll have to mill one for me, and then with shipping and customs and all that it would just take too long. I will eventually get one though, since I do need it for the actual layout. I was also considering getting a H0e wye turnout, but after trying to find prototype pictures on them in use on forest railways, well, there were apparently very few of them.

 

I did grab some soldering gear from the (way-too-hot) hobby room, and moved them in a (cooler-and-more-noisy-due-to-AC) room, so I can start building the turnout. A few things I want to test here are some tie plates under the moving blades as well as figuring out a nice way to hide the pcboard tie that switches the blades. The turnout will also be a hinged one, but I don't have any Micro Engineering rail joiners which I need to create the hinge.

[Kamome]

Had a bit of time this evening to paint the interior of my new Yo 5000. Also painted the step ladders and wooden boards as well as the wooden boards in my Tora 45000s. 

[AhmadKane]

Id like to show you something we just developed back here in Indonesia.

 

As you know for sound function there arent many options to choose. Soundcards are limited and not to mention the machine needed to play them is a bit expensive here. The other option would be to use ESU loksound, which does not cater to the loco or pockets of modellers in here. Also over 60% of modellers play with plastic H0 known as Railking, battery powered in some have an uncontrollable sound chip, similar to toy trains. There are also some sounds emitted in stations and crossing that are only common in Indonesia.

 

 

So a guy from Bali created a dc controller that has a sound function. Of which I helped on the N scale side. This was the second version he developed, at first it can only emit a sounds from a single type of the locomotive. So it really limits its potential.

 

Now the 2nd version caters both for diesel and steam. What I like is that he programmed the sound to adapt for rapid movement. The faster the voltage, the faster the train moves. This is a vid I took on the floor (my layout is waiting for a couple of newer parts) With the diesel mode on, Im running the Hokuso-Kaihatsu 7150 Micro Ace 8 car set.

 

 

I am really satisfied with the progress, and giving him feedback for it. The main issue I had with is that the box needs extra exhaust ports, an hour of usage made it really hot. Moreover, Im trying to help him expand the set of noises. With the expansion of the commuter line in Indonesia, as well as the building of the first high speed railway by the Chinese CRH. It might be well to expand. 

 

 

 

[cteno4]

Very cool! Nice Looking and sounding little controller. How do you get sounds in/program, via a flash card?

 

heat may be a power regulator that’s not mounted to a good little heat sink. Those guys can be really hot point sources that need the heat more distributed. 
 

really be cool if this system were easily programmed by the user for their own sounds.

 

love seeing home grown stuff like this.

 

jeff

[AhmadKane]

5 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Very cool! Nice Looking and sounding little controller. How do you get sounds in/program, via a flash card?

 

heat may be a power regulator that’s not mounted to a good little heat sink. Those guys can be really hot point sources that need the heat more distributed. 
 

really be cool if this system were easily programmed by the user for their own sounds.

 

love seeing home grown stuff like this.

 

jeff

 

Unfortunately how he does it, its a trade secret. Although he does have access to a database of locomotive sounds that, upon request, he could try to install. Evidence is a micro B USB port that inserts itself to the controller, which, upon uploading the files, he cuts off.

 

But yeah, I suppose it reduces the playability and customization aspect later on. He is looking however to create a soundcard system using USBs. So the system might be like a radio then... Lol, wouldnt it funny if I were to plug in the thomas the tank engine theme while running a N700-8000 Shinkansen?

 

Ive told him that he needs to expand his heat exhausts too. Theres like a 5mm hole on each end for the heat ports, it wont be enough for labour intensive use in a layout, or a continuous plugging. 

 

 

[cteno4]

yeah many of the systems lock things in a lot like this, that seems to be the main model. it is an issue to get the file in the right format and all. 

 

bummer its not more flexible, but his product.

 

yes usb is a way to easily upload stuff, just a bit more on communication issues on uploading. flash card is simple just have the files named numerically like the buttons for simplicity. fun thing then is just pop in a card for a different set of locos. sd cards are practically nothing costwise these days.

 

yes heat can be an issue. vents have issues of labor to make and also crap getting into the unit. does the whole unit get hot or just one spot? why many controllers are made of metal to allow heat transfer w/o a lot of venting.

 

jeff

[AhmadKane]

27 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

yeah many of the systems lock things in a lot like this, that seems to be the main model. it is an issue to get the file in the right format and all. 

 

bummer its not more flexible, but his product.

 

yes usb is a way to easily upload stuff, just a bit more on communication issues on uploading. flash card is simple just have the files named numerically like the buttons for simplicity. fun thing then is just pop in a card for a different set of locos. sd cards are practically nothing costwise these days.

 

yes heat can be an issue. vents have issues of labor to make and also crap getting into the unit. does the whole unit get hot or just one spot? why many controllers are made of metal to allow heat transfer w/o a lot of venting.

 

jeff

 

I suppose you could program cards to do it. Slot it in. It doesnt have to be awfully precise to a specific model, but its appreciated to have at least for different types of common locomotives. 

 

The unit gets hot under. Which has no exhausts apart from the side. So I can get why there should be a time based trial to see whether prolonged use have any lasting or consequational effect

Edited September 23, 2020 by AhmadKane

[cteno4]

basic unit is fine to get some usual sounds to play with. just gravy to make it more user adaptable and sounds he may not be into it.

 

sort of surprised he cuts off the usb port as its a way to be able to upgrade or fix the unit easily if needed.

 

many times you dont want to put vents on the bottom even with some feet as if you ever set it down and any liquid on the surface it can get sucked in very fast thru the bottom holes. usually slits in the side are the best solution or a grid of small holes. good thing with plastic if anything is really getting too hot you will start to see some plastic deformation. worst is when you have a single hot component like a power regulator thats more of a point source. usually attaching a small heat sink to these then dissipates the heat so the whole unit just gets a little warm all over and no big venting needed or issues with components overheating or plastic case getting deformed.

 

what is he going to retail this for?

 

jeff

[AhmadKane]

1 hour ago, cteno4 said:

-Snip-

That is a good point. I suppose I could bring it up to him. gridded holes is actually a good idea on the side. As long as there is cool air going into and out of the box. He actually had a deformation issue before, and he sold that particular one with a 7 dollar discount

 

As for the retail. He sold the 1st version for 30 USD. He's selling these for 42 USD, which is fair considering some controllers like Bachmann, Mehano, and the new KATO costs way more here. 

 

There is also one thing I'll get him to do. I wanna see whether or not he could put a DC accessory port as well. The V3 we're testing now managed to have a +20V output, so its possible to have an accessory port.

[cteno4]

Not a bad price for what it does. Do you know if he is doing pulse wave modulation or just straight voltage comtrol?

 

anyhow fun little project! 
 

jeff

[AhmadKane]

He uses a PWM control module. So its pretty common for homemade controllers

 

 

I forgot to video me using it. But here's a video of how it works. I think Ill be helping him make an english manual for the next version.

[chadbag]

He could integrate an SD card slot into it so you can update sounds.  He could put his own locked file format for sounds if he is trying to lock it down.

 

[Kamome]

Had a slight workbench incident with one of my Tomix Ohafu 50s. The result was me having to slowly sand back the problem with 1500 grit paper and then try and match the JNR red used on these things. Now Greenmax, known for their railway colours,  don’t seem to have a suitable match, unless Seibu red is similar. 
 

Anyway, with much scientific experimentation (counting drops of paint) I managed to get a pretty damn near match using Mr Color 327 and 100 lacquer based acrylics. (1 part 327 to 2 parts 100)

 

 Both are actually a gloss but I found with airbrushing them and using the magical Mr Color Levelling thinner, it gave a semi gloss appearance which is what I want. Detail wise most were on doors so I masked them. There may be a subtle difference from door to body but I can hopefully tone that down with some subtle weathering if needed.

 

Looking at photos of these things, there were some slight differences in the brightness and intensity of the red so I won’t be too worried if it doesn’t exactly match my others.