Replacing couplers... any advice?

[Sheffie]

Within a week I should have one two of these:

As you can see, it comes with knuckle couplers fitted. The blurb at Hobby Search (https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10559058) says the pack includes replacement Arnold couplers, which obviously I will need to switch to, since that's what all of my freight cars use (and the front/rear ends of my coaches too).

 

So, how difficult would you rate the replacement of couplers, for someone who's never done it before? Tips, tricks, things to avoid?

[katoftw]

Very easy. Just read the instructions. It is just four pieces.

[Sheffie]

Oh, I was assuming the instructions would be in Japanese. (I suppose this is the problem with asking for help before I even know what I'm dealing with. In my defence, I like to have my ducks in a row.)

[katoftw]

Pics and diagrams dont have a language.

 

I pull out my DE10 instructions tomorrow and take a picture, so you know what to expect.

Edited March 1, 2019 by katoftw

[railsquid]

Assuming these are the same as my Kato, the coupling will be "sprung" by a small rectangular copper strip which is held in place by a set of very small upright "poles". This stops the coupling flopping about.

 

The rectangular copper strips are not as prone to flying off into the netherworld as springs but nevertheless are small parts which long to be free. Spares are available from Kato.

 

A pair of good tweezers and an empty working surface highly recommended. Keep the area below the working surface tidy, and ensure there is no waste basket or similar in the vicinity, as the parts will make a beeline for that. Believe me.

[cteno4]

Get a hunk of velvet or velour from the remnant pile of the local fabric store. Black or white work best. Put it over your work surface and even a piece across your lap. Small parts hit the velvet and usually don’t bounce at all and are caught. Also they tend to stand out well as opposed to the chaotic patterns of a usual workbench. Of course won’t help for those really big pings where they fly many feet (and they can go across the room!) but I find like 90+% of my pings and drops go within a foot of where I’m working. Many that go further are actually bounces as even little plastic details will bounce well on hard surfaces when rocketing off your tweezers! I’m surprised how far/many times they can bounce as I’ve heard/seen where the first bounce happened and found the piece like 5’ from that!

 

the other day I was putting in a half dozen tiny set screws into some collets and was too lazy to go downstairs to do it on the bench on fabric and instead just did them on my lap while watching tv... I spent 5x the time finding the dropped screws (using fingernails to put in 3mm m2 set screws) than putting them in. At least I did not loose one permently... the brashness was just stupidity/laziness but could have been a problem...

 

jeff

[Welshbloke]

A small LED torch (those ones which take three AAAs and cost a couple of your local currency units) is very useful if you're reduced to searching the carpet for the part which went ping. Apart from adding more light it often causes the part to glint or cast a shadow.

[cteno4]

5 minutes ago, Welshbloke said:

A small LED torch (those ones which take three AAAs and cost a couple of your local currency units) is very useful if you're reduced to searching the carpet for the part which went ping. Apart from adding more light it often causes the part to glint or cast a shadow.

 

Yes yes yes! I spend too much of my hobby life looking like a csi on my knees face down on the floor...

[katoftw]

 

Sorry for the dodgy pic. But as I posted earlier. The 3 steps to replace the coupler are super simple.

Edited March 2, 2019 by katoftw