glass epoxy board (PCB material) approx 0.6mm (?) thick source ?

[chadbag]

I'd like to buy a piece of glass epoxy board (PCB material), with or without solderable pads (does not need to be drilled like so many I see) and it should be about the same thickness as the TCS or Digitrax decoder boards that replace KATO light boards.   What I need to do is to be able to cut a piece and attach it to the end of my TCS decoder so that the length is the same as the KATO lightboard it replaces.  While in most cases I can just "extend" LEDs out on stiff wire (like the LED legs I cut off) but in this case I need to match the length and put an SMD LED on the top and one on the bottom and not get bleed through, so I want to basically extend the decoder board out to match the KATO board in length.

 

I'd like to just cut  piece and CA it and then apply some tape or something top and bottom -- does not need to be super stiff.    Suggestions?

 

Place to get it?

[gavino200]

Have you thought about just using card? It's quite lightproof.

[chadbag]

10 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

Have you thought about just using card? It's quite lightproof.

 

Yeah.  I kind of want it to be stiff itself to hold the top and bottom SMD LED but the joint can have give.   

 

When we get home tomorrow I'll post some pics of what I am trying to accomplish 

[chadbag]

OK, this pic shows what I need to do.

 

This the is the lightboard of a KATO HB-E300.  On one end there are 2 SMD LEDs, one white and one red, one on top and one on the bottom of the board.  These need to be in the right place to meet up with 2 light pipes that are placed in the train frame.  So they need to be pretty precisely placed so that no light leaks up or down into the wrong pipe.  So I would like to use something stiff like the epoxy glass board.  I do not want to destroy the original light board so I want to attach a piece of epoxy glass board to the decoder, which is the bottom PCB in the pic (ignore the existing LED on the decoder -- I will remove that), so that it is the same length, and stuff.  I would use CA glue to glue the ends together and then put some Kapton tape on both sides to hold it in place more or less.  Something like that.  I am open to suggestions.

 

The LEDs would be wired in with 30AWG wire to the decoder.

 

[EdF]

Are you going to have to wire the red LED from the other end?

 

I plan to do this one too.  I plan is to add a second set of brass strips, with kapton between them so can can use the stock board, because I don't want to mess with those 2 very close LEDs.

[chadbag]

2 hours ago, EdF said:

Are you going to have to wire the red LED from the other end?

 

I plan to do this one too.  I plan is to add a second set of brass strips, with kapton between them so can can use the stock board, because I don't want to mess with those 2 very close LEDs.

 

I don't quite follow what you are doing.  

 

I am leaving the original board alone, just removing it from the motor car.   I bought a bunch of extra white and red right angle mounted SMD LEDs so I will just use new LEDs on my extension piece, and use wire to connect the LEDs to the decoder pads.  

[EdF]

My plan is to remove the board.  Lay the additional brass strip with kapton tape along its entire length on the existing brass strip.  Then place the original board back in.  I can solder a dz126 to the original brass near the rear of the car and to the new brass.  The catch will be if that extra thickness misaligns the LEDs.  

[chadbag]

3 minutes ago, EdF said:

My plan is to remove the board.  Lay the additional brass strip with kapton tape along its entire length on the existing brass strip.  Then place the original board back in.  I can solder a dz126 to the original brass near the rear of the car and to the new brass.  The catch will be if that extra thickness misaligns the LEDs.  

 

Ah, ok.  Yeah, since the KATO lightboard is a variant of the one that the TCS K0D8 family (and Digitrax DN163K0A) replaces, I am going that route of using one of those boards.

 

Good luck. I am interested on how it works out as the cab car on the other end will get a wired in decoder and probably a solution similar to what you are doing will work there.

 

[gavino200]

Two possibilities

 

Use a fine saw to chop the ends off the stock light board and attach those to your decoder.

 

Or use styrene. Easy to source at whatever thickness you want and easy to work with. You'll have to light proof it with paint.

 

If you really want to use that circuit board stuff, just cannibalize some old electronics and use a saw.  The obvious choice is to cannibalize the stock light board. Is there some reason why you want to keep it?

Edited February 25, 2019 by gavino200

[chadbag]

I may end up using styrene, but thin styrene is not as stiff as the glass board. May not matter.   I am looking around for old electronics that have thing boards as well.

 

I try and modify as little as possible to do a conversion.  I do make modifications when necessary but try and do as little as possible.  I don't like to use/corrupt existing light boards unless it is necessary (like moving LED and cutting traces if wiring in something).  I like to be able to have a working example to judge against, and if necessary go back to.

[cteno4]

Another thing to try is insulation cardboard. It’s resin impregnated (I think usually with a phenolic resin) to make it stiff and well insulated and water resistant. It’s really stiff and hard even when pretty thin and takes heat well. It’s the red or green stuff yiunuse to see inside a lot of older electrical components like stereos and such. Inobu and I found some a few years back when we were thinking of good stuff, but thin building materials for lasercutting buildings. For the life of me I can’t find any of the links now. It may be a dying product now with modern electronics.

 

there is the lighter stuff called fishpaper but that’s too think and flexible for this use.

 

jeff

[cteno4]

This is as close as I could find

 

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63410708

 

but I think harder like fiberglass pcb material in hardness.

 

jeff