Gavino200s new layout

[inobu]

3 hours ago, gavino200 said:

 

I like the practicality of that. But the aesthetics might be a little problematic for me. I want to build the layout like a piece of furniture so the framing and the room itself looks good. I'd like the space in the center to be a nice place to sit and relax. Ideally I'd have a larger room to be able to develop this space with some furniture. 

if that's the case then you have to decorate the room first and then build the layout around it. The common area should be the long and narrow passes and the city areas built as viewing points.

 

Ikea cabinets are good because they have 17" depths and the modern and modular look.

 

Gotta make it where its obscured and it blends in.

 

 

Inobu

[gavino200]

On 4/27/2020 at 10:43 PM, inobu said:

if that's the case then you have to decorate the room first and then build the layout around it. The common area should be the long and narrow passes and the city areas built as viewing points.

 

I'm going to take the wood panel off the wall and repaint. I'm not sure if I'll change the floor yet. 

 

On 4/27/2020 at 10:43 PM, inobu said:

 

Ikea cabinets are good because they have 17" depths and the modern and modular look.

 

Is there a particular cabinet from Ikea that you hav in mind.

 

I'm going to try to design a rough track layout before deciding for sure on a desk plan. I'd like to have a decent bit of complexity and playability without making it look like a spaghetti bowl of track. 

 

[gavino200]

On 4/27/2020 at 6:49 PM, cteno4 said:

The door section can easily be a hinge up draw bridge so you don’t have to do ducking! Even engineer in a switch so when lifted power is killed on the track approaching from either side to rule out a Gomez Adams run!
 

furniture is tough, more relaxed furniture requires a lower layout that you really have to be seated to enjoy, but lower means easier to get access to deeper sections and corners for work. There are some very comfy bar chairs that might work to lounge in somewhat but he high enough to enjoy the layout.

 

cheers

 

jeff

 

I've been thinking about this more, and I'm warming up to the idea. Especially if it was a piece well designed to sort of fall into place with much finicky adjustment. I think it would make for a much more fun and real looking track plan. 

 

I'm showed the idea to my wife and she freaked out a bit. She has a mental block about "The whole room" being used for a layout. I'm going to let it settle a bit before discussing it again. In the meantime I'm gonna continue planning. If I knock a wall and combine the middle room with the train room then I wouldn't be using "the whole room", would I? 🤣

 

Actually, height wise I'll probably go for lower than the standard chest height that you see at shows. I'm actually not hating the height of the lack tables. I like running the trains while siting in a chair. I may go for something between lack height and "standard" height. 

 

Or I could build a "king chair" like LBJ.

Edited April 29, 2020 by gavino200

[cteno4]

If you go all the way around the room you can maybe leave the center more open and make her feel like it’s not quite such an empire. You could always plan a future peninsula or two you could later add!

 

drawbridge is pretty simple, it’s the pivot point that’s the trick. Our local ntrak club does one on temp setups with no issues.

 

could be in the form of a viaduct bridge.

 

jeff

[gavino200]

17 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

If you go all the way around the room you can maybe leave the center more open and make her feel like it’s not quite such an empire. You could always plan a future peninsula or two you could later add!

 

drawbridge is pretty simple, it’s the pivot point that’s the trick. Our local ntrak club does one on temp setups with no issues.

 

could be in the form of a viaduct bridge.

 

jeff

 

I think you're right. I was actually just talking to her. I was a curious why she cared actually. It turns out she likes to show it off to friends and their kids when they come over. I knew she did that but I didn't realize it was a point of pride for her. 

 

I'm liking the idea of using a modular furniture piece as a base. Either the lack tables or something a bit taller. This time I want to do more mocking up before I commit to something. Building a surface over lack tables or a different cabinet would be fine, as neither of us care about drilling holes in these units. But we both would like normal looking furniture legs. 

 

I may start by getting the old layout and the extra junk out of the room and building a big ring with walkaround room. (Thanks for the idea). I'll need to buy a few more lack tables, or I might wait until I find something that's going to be the final modular base choice. My wife says she's happier with the idea of a whole room layout if it's modular and potentially adjustable. I'm still keeping the room joining idea alive. 

 

In terms of modeling and making, I'd probably start with the removable bridge. This would need to look ok and be no fuss. It also seems like an interesting technical challenge. 

[inobu]

1 hour ago, gavino200 said:

 

I'm going to take the wood panel off the wall and repaint. I'm not sure if I'll change the floor yet. 

 

 

Is there a particular cabinet from Ikea that you hav in mind.

 

I'm going to try to design a rough track layout before deciding for sure on a desk plan. I'd like to have a decent bit of complexity and playability without making it look like a spaghetti bowl of track. 

 

You have to make the room look like an entertainment room to her and a train room to you. She has to be able

to sit and enjoy herself (read or watching tv) while you guys quietly run trains.   The red line is how you get back and forth from layout town 1, 2 and 3.

 

Edited April 30, 2020 by inobu

[cteno4]

it’s always tradeoffs! Nice she thinks it’s a point of pride! 
 

Definitely good to build the layout sectional so you can always break it apart to move if necessary! Our new club sectional layout was designed around an minimal of like 6’ x 11” but has places we can enlarge it as needed to lengthen it. You could use that concept here to loop the current room but if you end up fusing the two rooms move the layout wider into the new space (or all the ay around the new space!). Same goes with having a peninsula(s) engineered into the beginning loop you can add on later if desired.

 

having something around 2’x4’ modules works well as you can do minimal framing on each with like 2-3” framing material and simple waffle interior structure and they bolt together. Of course they can have custom sizes to make things fit for room length and some pop out wider to make it not super uniform. Corners can be custom with nice rounded corners as Inobu showed (little bit of work but does make things look nicer and a tad more scenery).

 

then modules can rest on anything really like the lack tables if you want it low to start with. You can then always go up onto nicer cabinets of some sort. The best of both worlds would be simple legs that bolted into the wall at each of your module joints for the joints to rest on and then rollaround cabinets you can just push under or pull out when you need to work under the layout or rearrange your storage. Workbenches could also just slide under the layout as well to store. Some of the area could just have black material drape to hide smaller boxes and storage units that don’t look as pretty (or all of it if you don’t find reasonably priced cabinets to go all around!). Kitchen cabinets like inobu mentioned work well, but even cheaper IKEA cabinets could get expensive to ring the room. They also push the layout up to like 39” high. Always the issue of getting access to under the layout if cabinets and such under the layout are not movable as even if sectional it’s not easy to pull it all apart once up! This is why I love the idea of the simple rectangle of 2x4 legs bolted onto the walls as the support and then everything else can slide in and out under it as needed to be moved around to reorganize and get access under the layout.

 

it does get to the an issue if you start trying to do too many things in the room as their needs will start competing as well as visual distractions to the layout and such and just plain functional stuff. It will need to be a compromise which is fine, but means most things will need to give a little to each other! Really depends id you want the final room to just be a showcase of the layout (it can still be done such that there is some comfortable appropriate seating to sit and enjoy low or high, many showcase rooms like this it’s all standing which I find uncomfortable even visiting to let along playing with) or a multi use place where you relax and play with trains and don’t care if the layout is not the total focal point and giving up space and eyeballs some to other entertainment items.

 

Cheers,

 

jeff

[gavino200]

On 12/1/2019 at 1:01 PM, cteno4 said:

nice thing about this is you can have your support frame stationary and solid and potentially cabinets and shelving roll out from under to work on stuff.
 

Might look at a mix of ikea kitchen cabinets and bookshelves. Bolt them together and would be super sturdy and probably cheaper than having custom constructed tables. Could look quite sheik along with having a variety of storage options. Down side is modules need to be tipped for wiring work.

 

tables could just be frames of 1x4 that ikea legs screw onto and then tables bolt together. Frame would be enough to support modules (you could have tabs under the modules that go into corners on the frame grid to lock them in place) and still give you access under. Shelves and cabinets could be on wheels to easily move them out of the way to work under the layout or even just moving the pile of stuff in a cart to a better area to work on it en mass if needed. Looks like 2 ikea book shelves bolted back to back would be perfect and pop some casters under them.

 

 

 

jeff

 

I'm going to collect a bunch of Ikea cabinets and tables in this post. I wonder if there might be a range of different tables and cabinets with essentially the same height. 

 

 

[gavino200]

14 hours ago, inobu said:

You have to make the room look like an entertainment room to her and a train room to you. She has to be able

to sit and enjoy herself (read or watching tv) while you guys quietly run trains.   The red line is how you get back and forth from layout town 1, 2 and 3.

 

 

I like this idea. I love the idea of incorporating the layout into actual furniture. I don't like bare pine or pleated skirting, and I'm not a fan of visible storage. I'd like the layout of have a clean minimalist look. 

 

I think there's a difference between the way she imagines using the house and the way she does use it. For her, the house is partly a reflection of herself. She thinks of how it will appear to others On the other hand I only think about what I like and find comfortable. 

 

We already have a family room, another room with a couch, a reading room, and another large room that is empty without a purpose. I wan't to put a large table in it for doing projects and such. She want's to make it into a second family room. So the chances of her ever coming downstairs to use the train room as an entertainment room are close to zero. 

 

There's only one situation in which she would actually use the room. If she had friends over with kids, and Oscar was showing the trains to kids, she may want to sit in some comfort there with her friend while the kids play. 

 

The real worry for her is that the room will become "a nasty dusty stinky mess" (her phrase). She doesn't want to be embarrassed by it and she also hates dirt. At shows she has a real aversion to layouts that have been allowed to collect dust. 

 

But our tastes overlap. I also like the actual layout to be aesthetically acceptable. The main difference is that I want the layout to be as large and complex - as fun to play with as possible. She doesn't fully understand that. She doesn't actually play with it herself. 

 

I think my first move will be to move the junk (old layout and extra track) out of the room and build a temporary large layout as proof of concept. We can add and subtract until we come to an agreement. 

 

 

[gavino200]

A removable bridge at the point in blue would work here. It could be set in enough to allow the inevitable unexpected door openings without any disaster. 

 

[gavino200]

14 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Nice she thinks it’s a point of pride! 

 

Yes, I'm surprised and a little touched. I must try to involve her in playing with the things too. 

 

Quote

Definitely good to build the layout sectional so you can always break it apart to move if necessary! Our new club sectional layout was designed around an minimal of like 6’ x 11” but has places we can enlarge it as needed to lengthen it. You could use that concept here to loop the current room but if you end up fusing the two rooms move the layout wider into the new space (or all the ay around the new space!). Same goes with having a peninsula(s) engineered into the beginning loop you can add on later if desired.

 

having something around 2’x4’ modules works well as you can do minimal framing on each with like 2-3” framing material and simple waffle interior structure and they bolt together. Of course they can have custom sizes to make things fit for room length and some pop out wider to make it not super uniform. Corners can be custom with nice rounded corners as Inobu showed (little bit of work but does make things look nicer and a tad more scenery).

 

then modules can rest on anything really like the lack tables if you want it low to start with. You can then always go up onto nicer cabinets of some sort. The best of both worlds would be simple legs that bolted into the wall at each of your module joints for the joints to rest on and then rollaround cabinets you can just push under or pull out when you need to work under the layout or rearrange your storage. Workbenches could also just slide under the layout as well to store. Some of the area could just have black material drape to hide smaller boxes and storage units that don’t look as pretty (or all of it if you don’t find reasonably priced cabinets to go all around!). Kitchen cabinets like inobu mentioned work well, but even cheaper IKEA cabinets could get expensive to ring the room. They also push the layout up to like 39” high. Always the issue of getting access to under the layout if cabinets and such under the layout are not movable as even if sectional it’s not easy to pull it all apart once up! This is why I love the idea of the simple rectangle of 2x4 legs bolted onto the walls as the support and then everything else can slide in and out under it as needed to be moved around to reorganize and get access under the layout.

 

I fully like this idea. 

 

One thing I'm nervous about is how the modules connect. To remove a section of a ring, you either need to move the pieces laterally or have a piece of retractable track. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kato-20-050-N-1-Rail-with-Ballast-Extendable-from-mm-78-a-mm-108-N-Scale-/233232081068

 

Having these things every 4 feet isn't a derailment or clackity-clack issue, is it? On the modules themselves I plan on soldering the track. 

 

Quote

 

it does get to the an issue if you start trying to do too many things in the room as their needs will start competing as well as visual distractions to the layout and such and just plain functional stuff. It will need to be a compromise which is fine, but means most things will need to give a little to each other! Really depends id you want the final room to just be a showcase of the layout (it can still be done such that there is some comfortable appropriate seating to sit and enjoy low or high, many showcase rooms like this it’s all standing which I find uncomfortable even visiting to let along playing with) or a multi use place where you relax and play with trains and don’t care if the layout is not the total focal point and giving up space and eyeballs some to other entertainment items.

 

 

That's exactly it. What I want and what I believe my wife wants, is for the room to be a pleasant space to showcase the trains and to sit comfortably in while viewing the trains. That's also what I want. We only differ in our views of how much layout is "reasonable".

 

Honestly, thinking of a ring structure makes it easier to satisfy my wishes. It's hard to make a stretch a single loop and keep a semblance of "realism". I do want to actually model this thing. 

Edited April 30, 2020 by gavino200

[gavino200]

Unsurprisingly the room looks and feels better without all the junk. 

 

Edited April 30, 2020 by gavino200

[gavino200]

So a couple of decisions.

 

1. I'm going to go with the basics crowdsourced design. I'll use a removable bridge if I can pull it off with my limited skills. I'll use mostly a "modules on top of furniture approach, with likely some bridge sections to break up the "wall of furniture" appearance. 

 

2. I'm going to start remodeling the room right away. Maybe this weekend. 

 

3. I'll continue with track design plans and the concept for the layout. 

 

4. I've decided to do the woodwork myself one module at a time. I'm going to start right away on a four foot segment so I can build up some experience. 

[cteno4]

gavin,

 

sounds like a good plan!

 

yeah that’s the problem with furniture under the layout in a larger room as visually it can come to dominate! Also filling that space with nice furniture can get expensive. That’s why I like the concept of just a skirt or removable facia panels to hide the stuff you stash insert the layout. This way you can use a huge variety of storage options and if on wheels easy to arrange where each is handy! 
 

going to make a woodworker out of you yet here! I strongly agree a test module is a very good idea. Each new kind of module base I’ve made for the club, myself, or club members I’ve done a test one first. Many times when done I have found something big to change as well as a slew of production details to make things better and faster. I no longer care if I end up using the test module or not as lessons learned are always well worth what ever time and money put into the test. I’ve found this process to be one of my best improvements in my skills in both building and designing over the years.

 

jeff

[Cat]

Billy Bookcases from Ikea work great for layouts on top.
 
Until they are full of books and quite heavy to move and you drop a small piece down behind them....
x_X

[gavino200]

2 hours ago, cteno4 said:

 

yeah that’s the problem with furniture under the layout in a larger room as visually it can come to dominate! Also filling that space with nice furniture can get expensive. That’s why I like the concept of just a skirt or removable facia panels to hide the stuff you stash insert the layout. This way you can use a huge variety of storage options and if on wheels easy to arrange where each is handy! 

 

I agree. I also like hidden storage with a minimalist clean look. Though cabinets probably wouldn't dominate any more than skirting would. I like the idea of some cabinet (to hold track and various train stuff) and some bookcases (for train cases of course, and I guess books too). 

 

2 hours ago, cteno4 said:

 

going to make a woodworker out of you yet here! I strongly agree a test module is a very good idea. Each new kind of module base I’ve made for the club, myself, or club members I’ve done a test one first. Many times when done I have found something big to change as well as a slew of production details to make things better and faster. I no longer care if I end up using the test module or not as lessons learned are always well worth what ever time and money put into the test. I’ve found this process to be one of my best improvements in my skills in both building and designing over the years.

 

I could probably do almost everything with a hand saw and the jigsaw that I bought but have never used. If I need a table saw, I'll just mark and have someone else do the cuts. I think I could probably work out how to make the modules with some trial and error. It was really the legs that I felt were beyond my ability to do well. 

 

It'll probably be fun. Like learning woodwork from absolute beginner level. 

[gavino200]

3 hours ago, Cat said:

Billy Bookcases from Ikea work great for layouts on top.

 

Thanks Cat. I see they have a good range of different sizes. And some cabinets that match. I'm guessing you're talking about these?

 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/billy-bookcase-black-brown-s49020474/

 

I could have the module front rest on top lined up with the front edge of the bookcase. Then I could have two legs on the back corners of the module for it to stand on. The legs wouldn't be seen, so it wouldn't matter if they were made with my primitive woodworking skills. 

 

3 hours ago, Cat said:

Until they are full of books and quite heavy to move and you drop a small piece down behind them....
x_X

 

This is just a theoretical possibility. Of course, something like that has never happened to you. 😜

[cteno4]

With furniture never being the same height it may be a lot easier to just do the 2x4 rectangle supports you screw into the wall every module junction to rest module ends on then you don’t have to worry about rear legs booster pieces, etc with variable height furniture.

 

cabinets could be anything you wanted if hidden by curtain or just 4’ Long pieces of black painted masonite or nicely finished ply that velcro to the 2x4 rectangle legs. Leave them off when working and relax time and just roll everything under and clip on Velcro skirts or panels when you want things clean!

 

even with the nice ikea kitchen units you have to deal with buying a lot of them to fill the area and ecen to just support each junction.

 

jeff

[gavino200]

5 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

With furniture never being the same height it may be a lot easier to just do the 2x4 rectangle supports you screw into the wall every module junction to rest module ends on then you don’t have to worry about rear legs booster pieces, etc with variable height furniture.

 

I'll look into the idea. I know it seems super easy to you with your skill level. But it's actually a bit intimidating to me. I may be interested in combining this approach with the furniture approach. I do actually want to have a place to store all of the train stuff. 

 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/billy-bookcase-birch-veneer-s49023401/ 

 

I quite like the look of these in birch. I'm sure I could find furniture in relatively similar height. And I could probably find a way to acommadate small differences. 

 

 

5 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

 

cabinets could be anything you wanted if hidden by curtain

 

 

I know the curtain is common in the train world. But I just can't stand it. I don't know why. 

 

5 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

 

or just 4’ Long pieces of black painted masonite or nicely finished ply that velcro to the 2x4 rectangle legs. Leave them off when working and relax time and just roll everything under and clip on Velcro skirts or panels when you want things clean!

 

That's a good idea. And I could replace them with furniture if and when the need arises. Though I have tons of books with no home that I can use to fill some book cases. 

 

 

[gavino200]

I was just talking with my wife about this. We have a rough plan. We're going to remodel the whole basement, but not right now. The upstairs bathrooms need to be remodeled and are more of an issue should we have to sell sooner than expected. 

 

So I'm going to removed the wall panelling, paint the room, and add new light fixtures. Then I'll start building the layout in a modular fashion, likely incorporating at least some furniture. I'll keep the Lack table layout up to run trains as this will be a slow process. 

 

In about a year, I'll take down the modular layout, change the flooring (maybe heated tiling), install socket lights, repaint if necessary, and then rebuild the layout. 

 

So I should be able to begin with module construction soon. And I'll start dreaming up layout concepts. 

 

[Cat]

51 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

This is just a theoretical possibility. Of course, something like that has never happened to you. 😜

 And if it ever did happen, we would never just tape a bit of paper to the wall with an arrow pointing down and a note that "something fell down here"
~ , ~ 

Advantage with the Ikea ones is that they are all the same height.  Well, at least until you set them up on the floor of a hundred year old house.

[inobu]

You can do it yourself but you need the tools. Tools can somewhat compensate for lack of experience but no experience and no tools can be costly.

Cheaper tool are ok but you need experience to compensate for their short comings. The Ikea suggestion provides a finished look without experience but it has its cost factor.

 

My suggestion again would be to go here first. Order a few sections and the make an assessment on what you can do and what this looks like.

 

https://www.sieversbenchwork.com/

 

The bench work height I would use is 48". which works out because Ikea Galant is 47.25". 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/galant-storage-combination-black-stained-ash-veneer-s39285785/

Dark color is better as it hides imperfections easier.

 

You need to make a decision. Is the track plan going to dictate the framework or the room layout going to dictate the track plan.

 

Inobu

 

Edited May 2, 2020 by inobu

[gavino200]

44 minutes ago, inobu said:

You can do it yourself but you need the tools. Tools can somewhat compensate for lack of experience but no experience and no tools can be costly.

Cheaper tool are ok but you need experience to compensate for their short comings. The Ikea suggestion provides a finished look without experience but it has its cost factor.

 

My suggestion again would be to go here first. Order a few sections and the make an assessment on what you can do and what this looks like.

 

https://www.sieversbenchwork.com/

 

Picking up tools as I go should be possible. Unless you mean a table saw. I'm not planning to get one. I'll study these modules you linked me. I want to try to avoid reinventing the wheel. 

 

44 minutes ago, inobu said:

The bench work height I would use is 48". which works out because Ikea Galant is 47.25". 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/galant-storage-combination-black-stained-ash-veneer-s39285785/

 

Thanks. Good information.

 

44 minutes ago, inobu said:

Dark color is better as it hides imperfections easier.

 

That's true. But it also shows dirt and dust much more. 

 

44 minutes ago, inobu said:

 

You need to make a decision. Is the track plan going to dictate the framework or the room layout going to dictate the track plan.

 

 

There's gotta be some balance between these two. But for me track plan is primary. 

[cteno4]

3 hours ago, gavino200 said:

I'll look into the idea. I know it seems super easy to you with your skill level. But it's actually a bit intimidating to me. I may be interested in combining this approach with the furniture approach. I do actually want to have a place to store all of the train stuff. 

 
At the simplest these are just 4 pieces of 2x4 (could even be 1x4) Two the height of the layout and two cross pieces the width you want the support minus 3” for the front and back legs. You just screw the cross pieces at the top and bottom of the leg/uprights to make a rectangular frame. Then just a couple of anchors into the wall with molly bolts to hold it in place vertically, weight does the rest. Super simple and strong. the uprights then make good places to attach cover facials. I agree I’m not a curtain fan either. We use straight hang cloth with velcro on the club layout abs it’s not back as it’s pretty flat and straight. I hate the pleated curtains that n trak uses at times.
 

Other would be legs bolting to the module frames like the ones the company inobu referenced

 

https://www.sieversbenchwork.com/specifications.html

 

the issue with using the furniture to balance your modules on is you will probably need extra legs (ie book shelf in front and legs in the back) and risers for shorter furniture to stabilize and attach. This can get fiddly to put together depending on combo of furniture and also the furniture then gets in the way of working on things under layout later. Also makes it just a real pain to rearrange if you need to. Hodge podge of furniture and bookcases May end up a very distracting look below the layout. 

 

if the woodworking is giving you pause (modules will be more work than the rectangle legs) again I would look for a local woodworker/cabinet maker. Modules are super simple to cut out and you could assemble. Cabinet maker could cut the module frames out of good ply (hey usually get great prices on cabinet grade ply and Baltic birch plys) so things are super square. one by plank dimensional lumber is getting pricy even for the cheap crap which usually is warped to hell (even in the premium boards I have to look at 4 to find a nice one). Rest is just drill and screw and bolt you can do w.o sawing. Woodworker could cut a fancier version of the rectangle legs that again you easily screw together. Getting a working relationship with a woodworker like this may be great for you to do lots of projects that you dream up and not have to risk your phalanges around any nasty saws!

 

i agree with inobu for stuff under the layout darker is better. Black is the classic cheat, but in exhibit stuff we usually go with darker wood grains for bases if we can. 1/4” ply panels can get stained or dyed all sorts of colors. Coat of varnish and they clean well. We have black stained wood as low 9” high platforms under exhibit stuff where folks kick into all the time and even rest their feet on and it takes a long time before they need to be wiped down due to dirt.

Cheers

 

jeff

[inobu]

Gavino,

 

You have to be careful and avoid the creative vortex. That's when your mind starts spinning out of control and you build up so many thoughts

that you have to do something just for the sake of starting. That will get you in trouble. You will jump down the first rabbit hole and never get out.

 

I've said it before, it takes 3 times to build a satisfactory layout. That is if you are really good. 

 

I think you need to go through the basics first. You need to go through the motions first. It not you will pay for it in the long run.

 

Go to this site and pick out a track plan. I would suggest #14 it will fit in the right upper corner. You can expand from it in any direction.

https://www.katomodels.com/unitrackplan/index

 

#14

https://www.katomodels.com/unitrackplan/plan_N2_78

 

Build this in Anyrail and then go to https://www.sieversbenchwork.com/    Pull their pdf and create the bench work that will support that layout.

You can see the bench work and the cost as well.

 

Inobu

 

This is a lift bridge for a Lionel O-scale. Its counter weighted, self locking and adjustable. Built from scratch.

I myself would be a little apprehensive about the layout you are building. Based on the wife's expectation I would be cautious, and I have a lot of experience.........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 2, 2020 by inobu