Few problems with Kato EF65

[Beaver]

I have a second hand Kato EF65 which runs very smoothly but squeaks, squeals and scrapes a little while so doing. Seems as if it is a simple case of not enough lubricant, however:

 

I cannot see any safe and easy way to remove the bodyshell. No disassembly diagram is provided.

 

I have no idea where to start when it comes to lubricants. Until now I've usually had a policy of not lubricating small scale models.

 

I also have a second hand EF66 which makes a steady whirring noise. However this does not appear to cause or indicate any actual problem.

[Welshbloke]

Usually you gently spread the bodysides apart (get a fingernail under the lower edge then pull outwards and up). It can take a bit of wriggling to release all the clips.

 

I lubricate the worm drives (and their bearings) in the bogies, this often silences growling. The squeal may he dry motor bearings, which need a miniscule drop of light oil. You can buy oiling pens designed for models, these have a needle tip for applying a drop of oil exactly where you want it.

[Beaver]

Thank you.

 

For some reason I expected the clips to be on the sides of the body. They are at the ends, around the cabs.

 

 

Am I right in assuming the gap to which the toothpick is pointing, and the equvalent at the other end, can be used to get at the motor bearings? The squeaking does seem to come from there.

Edited January 6, 2019 by Space Beaver

[railsquid]

4 minutes ago, Space Beaver said:

Am I right in assuming the gap to which the toothpick is pointing, and the equvalent at the other end, can be used to get at the motor bearings? The squeaking does seem to come from there.

 

It looks like it. FWIW Kato UniOil comes with a very thin nozzle which comes in handy for applying oil through gaps like that.

 

For better access you can unclip the grey "lug" next to the toothpick to remove the lighting board. If so, keep a careful watch on the grey thing as they can jump quite far, and the copper contact strips will now be loose and ready to fall out and they are a bit fiddly to put back in place.

[cteno4]

Be super sparing in lubing the motor bearings and use a really light weight oil. Apply tiny bit and run and repeat if needed...

 

the needle applicators like squid mentioned with the Kato oil are great. You can get them as well to use with your own oil as well

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Precision-Oiler-Pen-Pin-Needle-Oil-Lubricants-for-Watch-Sewings-RepairBICA/183596310678?hash=item2abf316096:g:wkIAAOSwswVa0EsC

 

these pin oilers also work well as they hold a tiny bit of oil on the little bulb tip to transfer. No worry of squeezing too much oil out and generally better than a toothpick or needle

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Oiler-Oil-Pin-Pen-Parts-Lubricating-Watch-Repair-Tool-Sewing-RepairPlF/113356208729?hash=item1a648e7a59:m:mEjEvBeOLWyLwQVRgAA0r_A

 

cheers

 

jeff

 

 

[Beaver]

Thanks all.

 

I applied Kato oil to the motor bearings, gear towers and axle bearings.

 

The loco is now much quieter although not silent. However I decided to stop adding more oil as I thought I had already applied more than enough and it wasn't getting any quieter after a while.

 

Maybe best now just to let it run for a while to even everything out.