Removing car numbers

[mvaron]

Hello again everyone! Wanted to know if any members here has been able to remove the number off the Tomix 8720? I've tried the white eraser, Mirosol, and Mr. Color (only affected the paint slightly) and so far have been unsuccessful. I appreciate any tips!

[cteno4]

Sounds like it’s pad printed on and therefore paint not a decal.  Is the tank itself painted black or black plastic?

 

might try a micro applicator brush and some solvent (paint thinner, mineral spirits, acetone, etc) to pull it off gently. Test the black somewhere not noticeable to see if it comes up.

 

jeff

[gavino200]

41 minutes ago, mvaron said:

Hello again everyone! Wanted to know if any members here has been able to remove the number off the Tomix 8720? I've tried the white eraser, Mirosol, and Mr. Color (only affected the paint slightly) and so far have been unsuccessful. I appreciate any tips!

 

 

If you don't succeed in removing the number, an alternative approach would be to paint over it in black. With airbrush it would be fairly subtle. Even with a bristle brush it would likely look decent. Just a thought.

[GDorsett]

I've used paint markers to go over numbers and basic liveries before. If you're replicated a patchjob (common in the US), it's a great cheat.

[Kiha66]

I've used isopropyl alcohol to great effect on a lot of locomotives, its actually what kato recommends for renumbering their products.  

[cteno4]

Good idea as it’s slower solvent than other organics. 90% has worked well for me when stripping paints.

 

jeff

[mvaron]

Thanks everyone. I'll try these suggestions and post updates.

[mvaron]

14 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Sounds like it’s pad printed on and therefore paint not a decal.  Is the tank itself painted black or black plastic?

 

might try a micro applicator brush and some solvent (paint thinner, mineral spirits, acetone, etc) to pull it off gently. Test the black somewhere not noticeable to see if it comes up.

 

jeff

It is pad printed. I had luck removing it off the Tomix 8716 with Microsol after several tries. Tried the same technique on the tanker but nothing 😕

I think it's black plastic (tanker).

Edited January 5, 2019 by mvaron
Typo

[cteno4]

If it’s just black plastic then start with isopropanol and move up in solvents as needed, none should attack the plastic fast enough to damage to take off the pad print. But always test on the underside somewhere first.

 

microsol works by dissolving the carrier film on decals to let the decal ink layer sit closer to the surface. Not sure if it will always have the same effect effect on pad printing as that’s ink applied directly to the surface like printing. You need a solvent for the ink and it appears that pad inks vary some and also then in what will solvate them. In looking around folks have had varying luck with isopropanol, denatured alcohol (ethanol), and other solvent but mostly problems dealing with it taking up the paint under the pad printed bit. If there is no paint under them that’s not a concern only solvating the plastic and that takes a while except with heavy acetone use. Dot 3 brake fluid also works for some folks. There is a custom product out there for removing pad printed ink from plastic (1-Methoxypropane-2-ol), but getting ahold of it will probably require buying a gallon from the company at a big price (but hey you can make a thousand little vials of it to sell to Modelers then!)

 

jeff

[mvaron]

35 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

If it’s just black plastic then start with isopropanol and move up in solvents as needed, none should attack the plastic fast enough to damage to take off the pad print. But always test on the underside somewhere first.

 

microsol works by dissolving the carrier film on decals to let the decal ink layer sit closer to the surface. Not sure if it will always have the same effect effect on pad printing as that’s ink applied directly to the surface like printing. You need a solvent for the ink and it appears that pad inks vary some and also then in what will solvate them. In looking around folks have had varying luck with isopropanol, denatured alcohol (ethanol), and other solvent but mostly problems dealing with it taking up the paint under the pad printed bit. If there is no paint under them that’s not a concern only solvating the plastic and that takes a while except with heavy acetone use. Dot 3 brake fluid also works for some folks. There is a custom product out there for removing pad printed ink from plastic (1-Methoxypropane-2-ol), but getting ahold of it will probably require buying a gallon from the company at a big price (but hey you can make a thousand little vials of it to sell to Modelers then!)

 

jeff

 

Ok, just tried the isopropanol 70 (it was in my medicine cabinet) and nothing. I'm going to try dabbing the some acetone to see if does anything. Also the custom product you talked about, well it does exist I'm happy to report! :) I am a little afraid the brake fluid might damage it, but if all else fails I might order the stuff below. I easily found it on ebay. I'll have an update soon.
 

 

[gavino200]

27 minutes ago, mvaron said:

 

Ok, just tried the isopropanol 70 (it was in my medicine cabinet) and nothing

 

 

I'd recommend that you go next to more concentrated alcohol. There's a world of difference between what 70% and 90% will do. You can get it at your local pharmacy or hardware store. 

Edited January 5, 2019 by gavino200

[cteno4]

That’s actually something different maybe, but seeks to be a German hobby solvent and could not find a product sheet on it, maybe the same stuff. The stuff I was referrring to is a professional printer solvent to get pad print off plastic on misprints.

 

http://www.inkcups.com/printing-inks/screen-pad-printing-ink/inkaway-solvent/Default.aspx

 

ive always used 90 or 95% isopropanol when stripping things, it’s slow on paints.

 

i wish I was still in california as one of the exhibit graphic companies we worked with for years are old masters at these solvents and inks in silk screening. I’ll shoot the old master guy (retired) and email to see if he has any ideas. They silkscreened onto everything under the sun.

 

again test anything you are going to try on some underside hidden area first. Use some soap and water to clean off any solvents right after use.

 

jeff

[cteno4]

You can also get 99% isopropanol but usually not over the counter anymore, but still thru mail order. I use it in places I don’t want any water around like electronics.

 

jeff

[mvaron]

22 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

 

I'd recommend that you go next to more concentrated alcohol. There's a world of difference between what 70% and 90% will do. You can get it at your local pharmacy or hardware store. 

 

I'll try the 90%, I'm pretty sure I've seen it at Target.

[mvaron]

21 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

That’s actually something different maybe, but seeks to be a German hobby solvent and could not find a product sheet on it, maybe the same stuff. The stuff I was referrring to is a professional printer solvent to get pad print off plastic on misprints.

 

http://www.inkcups.com/printing-inks/screen-pad-printing-ink/inkaway-solvent/Default.aspx

 

ive always used 90 or 95% isopropanol when stripping things, it’s slow on paints.

 

i wish I was still in california as one of the exhibit graphic companies we worked with for years are old masters at these solvents and inks in silk screening. I’ll shoot the old master guy (retired) and email to see if he has any ideas. They silkscreened onto everything under the sun.

 

again test anything you are going to try on some underside hidden area first. Use some soap and water to clean off any solvents right after use.

 

jeff

 

So I tried a tiny bit of acetone (under the tank) and it did manage to take off a little paint, so I stopped and didn't do the number area. The one in the video caught my attention because it contains the (1-Methoxypropane-2-ol) you mentioned, but also in the video it takes some paint off and that's not something I want to happen.

 

I really appreciate all the info and resources from you guys. Another update soon.

[cteno4]

Ahh I didn’t look close enough at that bottle in the video! They have just rebooted little bottles of it!

 

yes you will always have the issue of taking up some underlying paint with pad printing as it’s just another layer of paint on top. Best hope is for your rubbing action to get on the pad printed paint and not the base paint. If you google around you will find folks sometimes try scraping its solvent just on the pad paint andnnot thenbase layer. Big swab is of course going to rub on everything. From the video it looked like it didn’t take up too much of the base layer paint. Have you tried these little makeup applicators? 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-Micro-Disposable-50-Pcs-Tools-Extension-Eyeliner-Applicator-Beauty-Tool/253801492309?hash=item3b17bf6f55:g:RqsAAOSwxXRbaOXM

 

They have a tiny tip perfect for this. The tips stay firm and don’t release a ton of the fluid you put on them when touched to something. Great for lubing and also for tamping down decals with microsol around details and crevasse. The tip is also reversible in handle so you get two for one!

 

acetone and mek are the nuclear options, they will eat up most plastics and paints. Ethyl (denatured) alcohol is a bit stronger than isopropanol. It’s usually around 95%. Like $4 at Home Depot. There are various thinners that have petroleum distillates with different mixes of organic solvents that will also work but more aggressive than alcohols. In the shop when trying to remove something I’ve always just started at the low end and stepped up until something worked and didn’t attack the substrate too badly. Always permutations of the paint and the substrate. 

 

Might also try the non acetone nail polish removers. They are not as aggressive.

 

i have to get some brake fluid, I’ve never played with it.

 

cheers

 

jeff

 

Edited January 6, 2019 by cteno4

[mvaron]

17 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Ahh I didn’t look close enough at that bottle in the video! They have just rebooted little bottles of it!

 

yes you will always have the issue of taking up some underlying paint with pad printing as it’s just another layer of paint on top. Best hope is for your rubbing action to get on the pad printed paint and not the base paint. If you google around you will find folks sometimes try scraping its solvent just on the pad paint andnnot thenbase layer. Big swab is of course going to rub on everything. From the video it looked like it didn’t take up too much of the base layer paint. Have you tried these little makeup applicators? 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-Micro-Disposable-50-Pcs-Tools-Extension-Eyeliner-Applicator-Beauty-Tool/253801492309?hash=item3b17bf6f55:g:RqsAAOSwxXRbaOXM

 

They have a tiny tip perfect for this. The tips stay firm and don’t release a ton of the fluid you put on them when touched to something. Great for lubing and also for tamping down decals with microsol around details and crevasse. The tip is also reversible in handle so you get two for one!

 

acetone and mek are the nuclear options, they will eat up most plastics and paints. Ethyl (denatured) alcohol is a bit stronger than isopropanol. It’s usually around 95%. Like $4 at Home Depot. There are various thinners that have petroleum distillates with different mixes of organic solvents that will also work but more aggressive than alcohols. In the shop when trying to remove something I’ve always just started at the low end and stepped up until something worked and didn’t attack the substrate too badly. Always permutations of the paint and the substrate. 

 

Might also try the non acetone nail polish removers. They are not as aggressive.

 

i have to get some brake fluid, I’ve never played with it.

 

cheers

 

jeff

 

 

Those brushes look great and at an attractive price too. I've been using q-tips and taped off what i don't want to erase.

 

So I got the isopropyl 91%, went at it for 10mins continuous and...nothing 😕 How long, in your experience, show I rub before I see something?

 

I'll slowly move  up to ethyl as you've suggested (fingers crossed) then the other liquids...something has to work...I just know there must be a one that'll get that "stubborn 148" off without harming the paint! lol

 

In the past I've used Simple Green and it works great to remove all the paint without damaging the plastic (and doesn't smell bad either), but that's not what I need in this case, I'm afraid it'll do more than what I need it to do 😮

 

Edited January 6, 2019 by mvaron

[marknewton]

Jeff, I don't know if the brake fluid you get in the US is the same as the stuff we get here in AU, but I would be very wary about using it on plastic. I used it once on a pair of diesel bodies from Athearn and Lima. It took the paint off but within a few days both shells had become brittle and easily cracked or broken. Its great on metal though.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[cteno4]

Mark,

 

Ive stayed away from brake fluid as there are multiple kinds (DOT 3 is usually what folks will give for specific) and i have seen some negative reports as well. But again many swear by it. All the paint stripping will have different interactions with combination of paint and plastic. Hopefully in this sort of application is not soaking it but just dabbing a tiny bit and cleaning and wont get into heavy plastic eating. but again why i always say TEST! 90% isopropanol soaks have worked on my needs in the past and ive just stuck with that for general paint removal on trains.

 

Mvaron,

 

you may try using an xacto tip and gently scratching the pad ink with a solvent as well. some out on the web have had luck with this of the solvent loosening the pad ink enough that it scraped off easily.

 

jeff

 

[mvaron]

On 1/7/2019 at 11:38 AM, cteno4 said:

Mark,

 

Ive stayed away from brake fluid as there are multiple kinds (DOT 3 is usually what folks will give for specific) and i have seen some negative reports as well. But again many swear by it. All the paint stripping will have different interactions with combination of paint and plastic. Hopefully in this sort of application is not soaking it but just dabbing a tiny bit and cleaning and wont get into heavy plastic eating. but again why i always say TEST! 90% isopropanol soaks have worked on my needs in the past and ive just stuck with that for general paint removal on trains.

 

Mvaron,

 

you may try using an xacto tip and gently scratching the pad ink with a solvent as well. some out on the web have had luck with this of the solvent loosening the pad ink enough that it scraped off easily.

 

jeff

 

 

I've had to take a little break from this project because of...work.

 

I'll try the DOT 3 next and have an update in the next few days. The last thing I'll try is the Xacto...I just don't want to scrap the plastic 😕 

[cteno4]

Use a magnifier and a new sharp blade, and go gentle. Got an old bash up car you could practice on?

 

jeff

[mvaron]

I'll need to get one of those. The new blade I have as well as the patience. I don't have a practice though.

Edited January 9, 2019 by mvaron

[mvaron]

Update: So after one of our club meetings and sharing my project with another member about the trouble I was having renumbering the cars, he made a very simple suggestion, why not simply add a number instead of trying to remove the others? Wow...why hadn't we thought of that lol??? The result turned out pretty good.