T Trak Station Build

[EdF]

Started my platforms today.

Will have 10 covered and 4 end pieces in 2 platforms spanning 4 double modules.

 

Will have to seating after I install on the modules.  Just 9 more of these to go.

[EdF]

And today I for 4 platforms mounted.  I had to assemble them from the platforms up.  But that was not so bad, in shipping they came apart a lot.  I drilled a 7/32 hole through the existing whole on the base.  The channel locks a m4 nut, which is useful.  I used a large m4 washer and an m4-20 socket cap bolts through the 1/4 ply deck.  I added new holes on the inside end of the platform access spaces, to allow a tool to push up the cap, as the intent of the original hole.  And it's just short of holding a 12 car train, last pick shows the over run that would be present at both ends.  I also had to file back the corner on the back(yellow line) end, but it clears a 89' auto rack, not sure on a shinkansen, don't have one.

 

[EdF]

Hmmm, out of upload space.  Will try to add more photos.

Edited January 4, 2019 by ecfitzgerald
Added photos

[EdF]

Ahhhhhh it just tipped over while cleaning up and both yellow line platforms bit it, cracked all 6 uprights.  Any chance Kato would sell just those?  😞

 

Edited January 4, 2019 by ecfitzgerald

[EdF]

It would be great if Kato would announce the new station compatible with the new platforms, as it would probably replace the parts I broke.

[gavino200]

6 hours ago, ecfitzgerald said:

Ahhhhhh it just tipped over while cleaning up and both yellow line platforms bit it, cracked all 6 uprights.  Any chance Kato would sell just those?  😞

 

 

 

That's a real bummer. Are you going to try to repair them? I bet you'd be about to repair them with some CA glue. It can't hurt to try.

Edited January 5, 2019 by gavino200

[Kiha66]

Looks like a good start!  For replacing the broken pillars some square or I-beam styrene should easily match the kato moldings with a little bit of paint.

[EdF]

True, my biggest concern is the power conductor that goes up the one set, but they are box beams now so maybe that would be easier.  I'll need to get back to the clubhouse to check the dimensions.

[EdF]

Success!!  I got it reassembled and conductivity to all 4 upper sections, ends up the fall had also messed that bit up in the other 2 as well.

[gavino200]

2 hours ago, ecfitzgerald said:

Success!!  I got it reassembled and conductivity to all 4 upper sections, ends up the fall had also messed that bit up in the other 2 as well.

 

Great. I'm looking forward to see it all lit up. I think you're the first person here to try this new kit out.

[EdF]

I need to find a source that has them in stock, and funds, will have 2 locos to sell on my US modern downsizing.  That should buy 3-4 kits easy.  

[EdF]

Looks like everyone has them now.

[EdF]

Would these work as just "drop in" leds on DCC power?

 

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/led-12w/12v-white-diffused-led-5mm-t1-3/4/1.html

[gavino200]

1 hour ago, ecfitzgerald said:

Would these work as just "drop in" leds on DCC power?

 

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/led-12w/12v-white-diffused-led-5mm-t1-3/4/1.html

 

No. It's more complex than that. But it's not very complicated. Really LEDs are quite doable. 

 

First, can you tell me more about what you have in mind? And do you really mean DCC or did you mean to say DC?

Edited January 9, 2019 by gavino200

[EdF]

DCC, just think of ways that might be cheaper than Kato's parts that I can just put across the rails in the platform roofs and base.

[gavino200]

I'm a little confused. Generally you can't run LED's directly off an AC current. Does the Kato platform run off the DCC track current? If so it must be configured to run on Kato "Constant lighting" power. If so, then it should also be able to run of the DCC power. The same setup exists with Tomix camera car. In this case there must be a small circuit that takes the AC current and converts it into a DC current which the LEDs need.

 

So I'm guessing you're question is, can you simply put a LED across between the rails on the top of the Kato lit platform. ie you want to use a regular LED instead of the pricey Kato LED units. That depends on the Volatage and current. Too high and the LED will just burn.

 

You need to know a few things. 

1. the voltage between the two copper rails on top of the platform. You can measure this with a multimeter. Or Kato may say what it is.

2. The current that the LED is designed for. Look on the website or packet

3. The maximum voltage for the LED. Website or package.

 

Likely you will need a resister wired in series with the LED to bring the juice down to a safe level. 

You can use an LED calculator to work out what resister you need to make it safe.

http://ledcalc.com/

You can add a second resistor or a variable resister to bring the light to the brightness you want. 

 

What do the Kato light units cost btw?

[EdF]

Well Katos pieces may have a rectifier.  Their interior lights work off DCC.  DCC isn't real AC so maybe it's in one polarity enough of they time we can't tell.  But I suspect a rectifier.  That would make DIY harder. 

[gavino200]

56 minutes ago, ecfitzgerald said:

Well Katos pieces may have a rectifier.  Their interior lights work off DCC.  DCC isn't real AC so maybe it's in one polarity enough of they time we can't tell.  But I suspect a rectifier.  That would make DIY harder. 

 

Yes. The rectifier is more likely in the Kato light chip than between the track and the copper rails on top of the platform. You could add a rectifier chip. They're not very expensive. But yes,  if you were going to DIY the lights it would probably make more sense to just buy a 5V DC power pack and run the LEDs off that. Doing the lighting DIY seems to defeat the purpose of having the Kato kit in the first place.

 

Have you been able to get your Kato light chips to function? Are they prohibitively expensive?

[EdF]

26 for 10, plus shipping.  I'll order them once I sell my other NA locos.  Probably a couple weeks, unless I find some at the train show next weekend.  Got all 10 bases setup, still need to anchor the near end.

 

[EdF]

Anchored and all 16 unijoiners locked!

 

 

[cteno4]

Looking good!

 

If you find unsnapping all 16 (er looks like 12 maybe) gets too hard you can always snip the locking wings off some of the unijoiners. I also use a wide but thin screwdriver to pry apart our club modules with a lot of connections like this. Start between the tracks at one end then slowly move down the line. Multiple unijoiners are really good at holding! Makes this very sounding supper sound of multiple connections whengoign together or apart!

 

jeff

Edited January 11, 2019 by cteno4

[EdF]

I've used the flat head before, and today.   I might try taking the wing off on the platforms, that's how it gets to 16. They connect with unijoiners for power, that have rails internally.  The center platform in both set is unattached to any module, as they span, making them connect at a different point, that was the hardest part on disconnecting them modules.

Edited January 11, 2019 by ecfitzgerald

[cteno4]

Wow cool I didn’t realize these used unijoiners to connect for power! New learn for the day.

 

Ug that will get hard to get apart. I expect you are right start on the platform unijoiners wings to relieve strain there first Is the best.

 

ive tried a number of things around the shop like putty knives, mini pry bars, etc and the plain old flathead seems to work the best and least damage to modules and less stress on tracks and joiners.

 

jeff

Edited January 11, 2019 by cteno4

[EdF]

Ordered 4 packs of lights today.  DHL, but I might have paid MTP too late for a Friday.

[EdF]

Got the light boards.  They are fidgety, 10 boards, that I'll need to break apart, the add wings to each side before installing.  I think that's because the floor lights mount 180 from the ceiling lights, still would have been nicer to just be drop in.  Will post pictures when I get a chance.