Tomytec DMUs

[tramman]

My interest is in Japanese rural lines and short DMUs and there are some interesting  models in the Tomytec range I wouldn't mind having.

 

Are there any complications fitting the "optional parts" to make the models runners?  

Has anyone installed front and rear lights to their DMUs as there doesn't seem to be any provision for picking up the necessary power?

 

Or will it be easier to stay with the ready to run models?

 

Ken H

[Welshbloke]

Fitting the upgrade parts to run them is very simple, just clip the parts to the new chassis and clip the body on. Lighting I haven't tried. It would be easy to connect to the pickups on the Tomytec motor chassis but you'd have to build the LEDs into the bodyshell.

 

One suggestion, once you're happy that it runs properly then give the shiny metal ballast weights a coat of matte black paint. Makes them a lot less visible through the windows.

Edited December 24, 2018 by Welshbloke
Paint suggestion

[tramman]

Thanks for your reply.

Fitting LEDS shouldn't be a problem but from what you say I assume that I would have to manufacture pickups for the non powered cars.

Ken H

[katoftw]

 

[ben_issacs]

Folks,

Tomytec models.

I've made a fair number of these, both as static and running models.

For the running models, the following comments may be useful.

For the un-motored trailer cars, remove the plastic wheel sets and replace them by the metal wheel sets, separately bought.

Pull off the body shell, lift out the internal seating block, then put in the metal ballast weight, this has two holes that fit over pins on the chassis, then replace the seating block and the body shell.

Perhaps a little dab of cement under the ballast weight may be a good idea. 

I don't worry about lights, too complicated for me.

For the powered car, remove the body shell, discard the seating block and the chassis with bogies and go to the power unit.

These usually require the fitting of spacers at each end to suit the body shell. this might mean a bit of trial and error with these spacers.

Fitting Arnold pattern couplers to the power unit bogies is a bit fiddly, these couplers fit with a dovetail joint to the bogie frame, awkward access, and they also have spacers which can control the distance apart of the cars.

As one post suggested, paint the motor unit's ballast weight a flat black or grey.

Attach the appropriate bogie frames to the motorised bogies, a little drop of cement is a good idea here, sometimes these frames work loose and fall off.

Change the plastic pantographs for metal ones., and if you're keen try and attach the various destination signs and other tiny decals.

With all of this, you've probably spent almost as much as an equivalent Kato or Tomix model, but Tomytec give you any amazing variety of railways and vehicle types.

Remember, This started off as a 'Collection' of static models, and the motorisation bit came later.

Regards, 

Bill, 

Melbourne.

 

 

[ben_issacs]

Folks, 

Tomytec models, one thing that I missed.

The chassis of the motor cars have various electrical bits and pieces hanging below them, these clip  in, and should be carefully removed, and placed in the same positions on the motorised unit.

Regards, 

Bill,

Melbourne.