Train Refresher

[cteno4]

Ok are your trains tired and worn out. well there is a product to solve that it appears!

 

http://www.hwjapan.com/sh/MCJ00606.aspx

 

looks like its a conductive agent/cleaner for tracks, wheels and contacts.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Guest ___]

Ok are your trains tired and worn out.

 

 

No, mine are just angry, and surly.

[ChrisWV10]

Does this work on people? Too many late nights have taken their toll.. 

[Bernard]

Is it slightly less than a 7oz bottle?

I like the name "Track Refresher" I wonder if Thomas the Tank Engine uses it right before he goes out on a date. He wouldn't want those embarrassing "Oil stains" on his trucks to ruin his evening.

[CaptOblivious]

Try Aero Track & Rail cleaner (basically just Aero Conducta Lube in a bigger bottle); it's what I use on my track and wheelsets, and it's way cheaper :D (part no. ACT-6006)

[bc6]

I just purchased some stuff called Rail-Zip. I haven't tried it yet but it has the following claims.

 

Restores electrical conductivity

Penetrates existing corrosion

Retards rate of corrosion

Safe on plastics

Lasts 8-12 weeks

[Guest ___]

DO NOT USE RAILZIP LESS THAN 6 HOURS BEFORE RUNNING TRAINS!!!!!!!!!

 

I can not stress this enough. Personal experience, and disaster result talking. Especially if you have a grade that needs climbing.

[Guest ___]

Try Aero Track & Rail cleaner (basically just Aero Conducta Lube in a bigger bottle); it's what I use on my track and wheelsets, and it's way cheaper :D (part no. ACT-6006)

 

We've used this at my old HO club and was pretty happy with it, unlike that damn railzip that made us canceled our annual open house as none of our engines could make the 3% (scale) grade

[CaptOblivious]

Try Aero Track & Rail cleaner (basically just Aero Conducta Lube in a bigger bottle); it's what I use on my track and wheelsets, and it's way cheaper :D (part no. ACT-6006)

 

We've used this at my old HO club and was pretty happy with it, unlike that damn railzip that made us canceled our annual open house as none of our engines could make the 3% (scale) grade

 

I'd let the Aero stuff dry a few hours too. A fresh coat makes climbing grades impossible for nearly all of my trains.

[cteno4]

Aaron,

 

wasnt it ok at the club layout after you let it dry? wasnt it that the railzip was applied an hour or so before the show? was it ok once it dried?

 

i have heard a lot of conflicting reviews of conductance cleaners/oils like this, never sure what the scoop is.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Guest ___]

Nope. We couldn't get a 20 car train to clime A (Track 1, we call A) or B (Inside Track 2 we call B) with four engines, and a helper. We finally tried a sixty car train with three on point on A with three helpers and it barely made it. It didn't matter if we used the club's engines which were Atherns, nor member's Katos.

 

I recall my Atlas (Concor) GP40 with a five car local started to slide backwards down the grade into the tunnel, and it took me five minutes to fish it out, becasue the only way to get to anything inside was to go under the layout.

 

We gave up and halted the indoor layout for the remaining three hours of our open house, and just ran with the garden layout outside. We knew if the trains were slipping on A, that they're be going backwards down B. We all got sick of having to stage people to use their hands as helpers.

 

The guys in the club put it down about an hour before the show. It was the first time we ever used it. After we we started running we tried everything from motive power, to using IPA and other track cleaners to get the rail zip off the tracks, but after an hour, it soaked in there to a point of no return.

 

I recall the direction state to use 6 hours prior, but a full 12 hours or overnight is preferred. If I remember, we actually banned railzip and write it in to the bylaws the following business meeting.