Kato expansion track vs multiple small tracks

[Hayashi]

As I am planning my layout I have one spot where I have two choices to make my Unitrack ends meet up. Both choices line up perfectly (i.e., no track misalignment). It is just the gap length.

 

Choice 1: 33mm + 33mm + 38mm + 64mm. This combination closes the gap perfectly, but has multiple joints that can potentially cause derailing and electrical connection issues, not to mention general appearance of lots of joiners and somewhat irregular tie spacing.

 

Choice 2: 62mm + expansion track (20-050). This combination also closes the gap perfectly, has less joints for potential derailing and electrical connections issues. However, the expansion track may cause derailing issues (although I have read very positive comments about it) and it has just an okay appearance.

 

Are there any recommendations on the best way to proceed in this case?

[cteno4]

Hayashi,

 

using the small bits has always worked best for me. As you note the expansion tracks can be problematic. The biggest issues we have had was derailments whenthey were too close to curves and the twisting pressure on the trucks caused them to want to jump the rsilmat the slide joint point. They seem to work pretty decently in the middle of a straightaway.

 

not had issues with multiple short sections causing problems. You can always spread them out if you want to disperse the effect of wheel clacking or looks.

 

you can also make your own custom rails as well pretty easily. You just saw out a section of the roadbed in the middle of a longer section the amount it needs to get reduced by (razor Saw in a little miter box or rotary tool with cutting wheel or band Saw). Clip the spikes and remove the chunk of roadbed and clean up the sawn ends remaining. Then slide the one side of roadbed down flush with the cut joint so the extra track is sticking out one end. Epoxy the two halfs of the road bed together and nip off the rails flush with the end of the track and file smooth. Now you have a custom lenght of track with proper unijoiner sockets on each end.

 

making your own solves all the problems! I think there is a video on YouTube from a hobby shop detailing the above.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[katoftw]

Joiners shouldnt cause derailments unless the track is set up incorrectly.

 

As for power issues. The expansion track loses some power from one side to the other. Maybe 20-30%. So you power feeders each side of that track piece to compensate.

[Hayashi]

Thanks cteno4 and katoftw,

 

I won't be able to space out the small tracks because they are joining two curves. I appreciate the insight and experience on the expansion track. I had heard good things, but no one had said to avoid them at curves. Good enough. Thanks. I've watched the video from Fifer Hobbies on shortening track. That's probably the best way to go. I have some experience many years ago with shortening up Atlas flex track. Trimming the center out of Kato and reattaching/trimming rail shouldn't be a problem.

 

I appreciate the insight on power loss with the expansion track. I plan to overcompensate and run power leads every couple of feet or so, especially any place with a lot of joiners such as yards. I used to have a large G-gauge outdoor layout in my last home (300' of track). I ran track power and had a lot of leads for power and 9 turnouts. There was a lot of heavy gauge copper wire buried in that yard.

 

Feels strange going from N in my youth to G and now back to N. Almost chose On30 because it would have been a good transition from a 1920s era logging garden railroad to something similar inside. Tight curves wouldn't look strange and it's a lot easier to see things in O,  but I decided to go with shiny Japanese passenger trains (and some freight) instead. I'm desiging double track Shinkansen, double track commuter/express, and single track freight with two yards. Shinkansen and commuter will also have their own yards. All tracks will interchange so I can run anything on any line. Keeping the curves to 315 minimum so I don't have problems with long rolling stock. So far I've been able to keep everything within a U-shaped design (unequal length legs) that is 10'2" x 12'10".

[cteno4]

Hayashi,

 

you can do leads like every 4-6’ and even more in most cases. You can experiment and just test any voltage drops with a multimeter and add more feeders where needed.

 

also simple to make your own unijoiner feeders by pulling the metal joiner out of the unijoiner and soldering 22 or 24g wire to the bottom of the joiner and feeding it thru the plastic bit of the unijoiner. If you want a heavier gauge connection you can also use a rotary tool to cut slots on the underside of a piece of unitrak and just solder like 18g wires to the bottom of the rails. You can tin the bottom of the rails and the wire the just Dow quick fuse soldering.

 

ive never seen much of a voltage drop from the extender tracks, but like most unitrak joints then can be individual. We had about 7 of them on the first JRM set up on the fly and only had issues with the derailments.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Hayashi]

Thanks cteno4. Good advice. I'm not interested in purchasing a bunch of feeder tracks or terminal unijoiners. My soldering skills are pretty decent, so that will save some cash for other railroad purchases.

[cteno4]

It works well, just takes some practice cutting the slots. I found a cutting disc worked best but have to be gentle to cut just the plastic and not the rails. Draw a line and also be prepared for it to throw plastic all over! 

 

Its also good to put a dab of epoxy over the joints and insulation to keep all stress off the solder joint and bit of wire just before the insulation.

 

does save money and is stronger than unijoiner feeds and can do a larger gauge wire.

 

jeff

[kvp]

There are a few videos on youtube about cutting pieces of unitrack to size while keeping both ends standard. (essentially how to remove the middle) This allows almost any non standars lengths to be custom made.

[cteno4]

Actually not a video, but old school

 

http://www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-make-your-own-lengths-of-kato-unitrack/

 

cheers

 

jeff